Culdaff Climbfest 2016

Culdaff Climbfest 2016

Climbfest Topo here.

Finbarr Wall – Dublin IMC and Donegal crew

All in it was ace – lovely, lovely people & lovely crags – it’s mecca for climbing…and the weather was good. We had a really fantastic time.

Dave at Finbarr Wall

It was well set up, I especially like the topo’s and the ethos was get new folk climbing! Very supportive group. First day was all about beginners/first time climbers, the lad organising gave everything to this cause.

Finbarr Wall B. Mosquito, Sev 4a
Finbarr Wall stance
Finbarr Wall – Lichen on Granny Long Legs (HVS)

Orange Blossom is the crack I loved but could not do, Dave and Barbara did it, hard to describe how cool it was….it’s the route everyone wants to do….an inverted corner and bumpin up it with nout but a heavy left arm lean until you can grab something, not much for feet as it is an over hang to start then lashing in a hex into a hole in the inverted corner (blue hex fits) and battering up a kind of obtuse chimney….(hard to describe)

We also did Finbars Wall and Brasil Rock ….

Dunmore Head – Inland Wall. Orange Blossom, HS 4b, 12m (Probably the seminal climb everyone wants to do)
Brasil Rock
Brasil Rock
Brasil Rock

Some of the Donegal climbers (‘Colmcille’ is the club name) said specifically they wanted to try climbing in Dalkey and I said we will organise a meet for that (no bother) and, sure, if they are coming Dalkey why not try Glendo, and I tell you they are very much up for it.

3 thoughts on “Culdaff Climbfest 2016

  1. Great blog Ben
    And Fantastic photos bringing backa lot of good memories for me of my first trip in 2007
    Remember rushing down to Dunmore head on the Saturday morning
    Getting as many climbs in as we could before the rain lashed down
    Orange blossom was one climb that stuck out as just great moves

    We all retired to the pub to wait out the rain and I got talking with the friendly locals about what would be good for a VS climber to attempt.
    The mention of Brazil rock and a nice corner called Zanzibar mas mentioned ,so off we trotted, did a nice HS and then as everything was now dry (but mainly because I didn’t want to go back to the pub with tail between my legs) ,we looked at this corner
    It was absolutely brilliant climbing, at my limit at the time to just get established and worthy of a star or two

    Lessons learned that day. When Alan Tees says it’s a good route it’s a great route. When you ask for a VS climb from Alan check the guidebook (I see its been upgraded from HVS to E1 in the new guide 🙂 )

    Well done for getting out with the gang
    We should definitely invite them to the hut and glendo
    Lets get our meets team, talk to their meets team……

  2. Hi All,
    I tried to find a home for this while at Climbfest with you Meave, and Barbara…..

    I still have a karibeener with a purple mark on it which does not belong to me

    Thank you

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