Route Info Archives - Page 2 of 6 - Irish Mountaineering Club IMC, Cumann Sléibhteoireachta na hÉireann

2019 IMC New Routes Roundup

Deer Park Crag Co Dublin

Sin Binn (E1 5b)** 23m
The climb starts 3m to the right of the detached block of the snapper. Start by following the fine vertical crack up to the small ledges, just above head height. Move left by using sidepulls and a high step to the ledge on the small outside corner (crux). Using small holds above continue up the vertical face until better holds appear before gaining the grassy ledge, scramble up over easier ground to the top.
Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty June 2019

Rocky Valley Co Wicklow

Holly Days Diff.
Start 2m. R of Rocky ll. Climb over ledges to below a small Ash tree in the corner, move up to the holly tree (escape L possible Here). Follow the crack behind the holly tree to the top.
G. Moss 24/7/19.

The Merry Prowboy HS(4a).
Start as for Holly Days. Climb up over ledges and veer R to the bottom R of the prow. Climb the R edge with one difficult move.
G. Moss 24/7/19

Ballyryan Co Clare

THE DIVIL GETS AT YA HS

B Watts, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, G Angelini, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).

Start just right of ‘’Caoimhe’’, climb straight up the wall and tackle the short off width crack.

BALLYMEGASH HS

B Watts, G Angelini, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, K Kelly, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).

The obvious fissure right of ‘’’the divil’’ is easy to start , finish up the steep wide crack.

STREET RACER VD

B Watts, A O’Toole, 7/4/2019 (First recorded ascent)

Climb the broken rib 2m left of FROST IN MAY to the ledge and finish up the wide crack

Oughtdarra

DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE HS 4b Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

VIOLENT LOVE VS 4c Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019. Climb into the V shaped niche 4m’s right of Don’t call mee…., take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left and on the head wall will come in handy higher up.

WILDSTYLE HS 4b Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. Climb the overhanging corner above BB by clever use of the slab on the right.

SNOWY’S ESCAPADE VS 4b Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

TINTIN’S BIG ADVENTURE S Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE VS/HVS 4c Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. A harder companion piece to BANISH MISFORTUNE, climb the sustained groove 2m’s right of BANISH MISFORTUNE with holds and protection improving towards the top.

DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS HS 4b Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. Climb the easy groove right of BONZO, easy and loose to start delicate to finish.

STRAY DOGS HVS 5a Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. Take the only crack, 2-3m left of the pillar block. Move up the crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above. Satisfying.

FASTER THAN THE HOUND S Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall. Variation: Arete Finish S Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019. From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES HS 4b Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019. Thin crack line 3m’s right of WHERE BEAGLES DARE.

FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER VS 4c Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019. Climb the twin cracks 3m’s right of WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME.

DOGS LIFE VD Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

PIT BULLS DAY OUT S Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. Take the right hand crack line to the top.

CELTIC TIGER HS Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Tom Van Rimsburgh, 26th May 2019. Start 1m left of STALL THE DIGGER, follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.

THE KID, HEH S Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 6/5/2019 Start 1m right of SWAMPY JOCKS. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

I WANNA BE ADORED 18m E1 5b Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019 Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall – the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

Murroughkilly Co Clare

WAKHAN CORRIDOR HS Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 12/5/2019. Above a niche is a groove leading to a left-facing corner. Continue up, trending right, following a disjointed crack-line. Check loose holds.

RUSSIAN ROULETTE E1 5a Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 12/5/2019. Halfway along the escarpment, adjacent to a wide, left-facing chimney, is a crack line. Follow this crack to a stance below a bulging wall. Continue to the top. Sustained, with good protection.

Scailp Na Seisri Co Clare

The divil and all 15m D Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Start as for Dr Teeth and then traverse for 10m around the overhanging prow, finish easily up leftwards.

Topcat 8m S Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Climb the wide overhanging cracks.

Dr Teeth and the Electric Mayhem 10m VD Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/9/2019. The next crack to the right of Benn Act.

Benn Act 7m D Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Climb the wall and crack 3m right of the corner, start off the lower level.

Lundy at the Gate 8m VD Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Climb the corner right of That’s What She Said.

Intergalactic Vice 8m D Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Takes the prow left of That’s What She Said starting on the right.

Enya plays the bongos 8m S Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Left of Intergalactic Vice there is a cracked wall, this takes the left hand side of the wall finishing up a thin vertical crack, the crux is at the top but is well protected.

Slieve Rua Co Clare

DIVIDE AND CONQUER 10m VD Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019. 4m’s left of BOFEY QUINN’S COULOIR there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

Black Ball Head Co Cork

Black Ball Head Grand Traverse 140m VDiff

G. Galligan, A. O’Reilly, 14/09/2019.

An enjoyable grand tour of the Head, linking Black Sabbath and Ecstasy Walls.

1. 35m. Starts at the left-hand end of Black Sabbath wall, at the adjacent wall (Black Sabbath Slab). Scramble up the ramp to belay at a height aligned approximately midway up Black Sabbath wall. Move forward off the ramp to attain the wall. Continue rightwards, taking the series of short horizontal crack lines to gain the seaward corner. Belay.

2. 25m. Continue around the corner, moving along the prominent ledge, again at approximately mid-height of the Head wall, to reach a wide shelf at the apex of the Head. Here the rock colour changes from black to grey.

3. 45m. Maintain the same level, climbing delicately across ledges to move above and around the recessed corner. Step 3m higher to continue crossing Ecstasy wall, keeping mid-height. Belay on a short triangular spike at the base of a high, outward-aspect corner.

4. 35m. Continue traversing for approximately 15m before a tapering descent to easy slabs approaching the base of Ecstasy descent gully.
Fairhead – A Practical Guide

Fairhead is an expansive mass of dolerite situated on the N.East coast of Northern Ireland. It is comprised of vast vertical walls, columns, soaring corners and crack systems. Generally the rock quality is very good but occasionally one can find a loose block or dirty corner, but seldom on the popular routes. Fairhead is a trad climber’s paradise.

The biggest issue with Fairhead for a first time visitor is its reputation and misrepresentation. There is no denying that the place can seem big and intimidating but when one gets past the scale its a climber’s wet dream, with acres of climbable quality rock and routes of the highest standard. Oh… and for the most part it eats gear!

The first question is where to start?
For the first time visitor I would suggest The Prow as there are *** routes from VS upwards that take ample gear and introduce one to the art of jamming. The routes a vertical, sustained and well protected so get your jam on, stick in the gear and give it socks.
There are a selection of VS multipitch routes at different locations on the crag and these are worthy of attention also.

If things are going swimmingly and one wants to test the water then there are some classic HVS routes that will supply said challenge. The most popular is Hell’s Kitchen (2 pitch) as it’s accessible from the Ballycastle Decent Gully and it’s a *** corner climb containing a superb final pitch with an intriguing crux. In the guide it states it’s high in the grade and I would agree.

Entering the E1/2 domain then it’s back to The Prow for a selection of *** climbs that are beyond good. My personal favourite is Midnight Cruiser… what a climb! Great gear throughout and the crux comes at the top as one negotiates between two parallel cracks. But you could honestly swing a cat and hit an amazing route.

Another superb corner climb is Equinox (E2). Imagine an open book corner with a small roof at mid height that takes ample gear and just keeps on going (2 pitch). This is only one of a selection of mega corners in Fairhead.

If one wants something more atmospheric then take a trip to The Grey Man’s Path area and jump on Burn Up at E1 (2 pitch). To date possibly the best route I’ve climbed on with great positions and a layback crux right at the top (save your biggest cams!).
Or walk a little distance further up the crag and jump on Toby Jug and eye up The Brasser and Sandpiper…. if you dare.

Or if you really want to get your ‘jam on’ then walk a little further Eastwards and take a look at Hurricane (E2). If your a dedicated face climber then prepare to suffer, but if you are like Jon Smith then you’ll eat it up.

The above are only a fraction of the quality lines at Fairhead…. one could climb there for a life time and not get bored.

On a more practical note:

Gear:
Double up on nuts, don’t be shy about digging the larger hexes out of the wardrobe, double up on cams (especially 1,2,3,4), a couple of slings, krabs and lots and lots of quick draws.
Ropes – 60m half ropes are generally best, but a single 60m can be used on The Prow.
Abseil Rope – 50m for The Prow (a 50 will also get you to the base of other routes further down the crag if you use a dedicated static rigging line to accompany the 50). A 100m static is best for the middle section of the crag as it’s a nightmare walking the base as it’s covered in ferns and hidden blocks.

Access:
If one uses The Ballycastle Decent Gully and The Grey Man’s Path Gully as access points then it’s relatively easy to locate routes…. unless you’re an idiot like me and wander around aimlessly looking for An Bealach Runda (still don’t know where it is)!

Anchors:
Lots of the routes have large boulders on the top (most courtesy of the local climber friendly farmer Sean) for anchors. Occasionally one will have to use gear but that’s no problem to us as trad climbers.

Clothing (super important for Fairhead):
The crag is North Facing and often times one could wear a light down jacket at belays during the Summer. Be smart and bring a few layers and possibly a little bag for the second to carry if required.

Place to stay:
Sean’s Farm is the most convenient location with camping on offer for £5 p/night. He has installed drinkable tap water at the old ruins and there is currently a portaloo (well maintained there).
You can stay in Ballycastle but this option is only for the ‘whimpering softcakes.’
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qZY2Oa8Sdbu3n-y5htTx25vjLeg&usp=sharing

Hints and Tips:
There are a couple of skills to master at Fairhead that those familiar to Dalkey and Glendo will not have encountered.
Jamming – there are quite a few climbs that require solid jamming for sections but if one is not familiar with the style don’t fret… just get stuck in.
Finger Jams – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W99gN54wLQ
Fist and Hand Jams – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4CzwDebyI8

Gear Placement – on most routes one could place two racks of gear!! This is beneficial in a way as the route is safer (I would argue safer than Dalkey) but a real Fairhead skill is to know when to place gear and when to run it out above good (excellent) gear. If one is stopping every meter to place gear than the likelihood of getting pumped is 100% guaranteed….. develop a critical eye and your grade will jump.

When to visit – Ideally one needs to be leading at VS/HVS for the crag to start to open up. But there is never a ‘right’ time for a first visit…. even if one is starting out I would suggest a visit is worthwhile just to walk the crag and take in the spectacular views (on a nice day). Don’t let the size and scale of the crag become the first hurdle….

And finally…. take time to look at the environment as it’s a stunning place.

Be safe but be bold.

A.

A Route Description Glossary

Guidebook route descriptions can be strange beasts. For something seemingly so crucial as describing which way a route goes and what can be encountered along the way, the language employed can be a little obscure at times and especially confusing to the beginner or climber whose first language is not English.

I originally started this glossary purely for my own use, at the beginning of last year, in an attempt to understand the language used to described the physical features on a route. It subsequently expanded into the wonderfully euphemistic keywords used in guidebooks together with climber’s idioms for specific types of movement or holds.

Whilst some of these terms may be self explanatory (e.g. bulge, crack, ledge, etc) others are not always obvious, especially in the ways they may be used within a climbing context (e.g. roof, cave, etc)

Part I: Feature Definitions

The terminology used in describing the physical features & morphology of a climbing route.

Term	Definition
*arête*	A ridge or a sharp outward facing corner on a steep rock face or mountain.
*break*	A horizontal crack.
*bulge*	May refer to a small rounded steepening or even overhang or a larger protruding area on a crag.
*buttress*	A prominent feature, possibly a steep arête, that juts out from the side of a mountain on which climbs are located. Sometimes called a crag. Less commonly referred to as a nose or pillar.
*cave*	A distinct hole in the rock face, larger than a pocket but not necessarily as large as ‘cave’ may imply. For example, may be significantly smaller than that required to accommodate a bear (which is a good thing).
*chimney*	A passage in the rock with mostly parallel sides. Large enough for a climber to fit into. May be vertical or at a much lower angle.
*chockstone*	A piece of rock which is lodged in a crack or chimney
*choss*	Poor quality climbing material – may include soil, vegetation, stones, or friable rock, etc
*col*	A pass between two peaks. Also referred to as a saddle or gap..
*corner*	Corner on its own generally refers to an inside corner of rock, a deep groove like an open book. See also dièdre/dihedral. Less frequently, an outside corner can be used to refer to a small arête.
*crack*	A split or fissure in the rock face, the separation of two rock faces. Can be as wide as a chimney down to so narrow it cannot take protection.
*crag*	An outcrop of rock with climbing routes. Often used to describe a buttress
*dièdre/dihedral*	An inside corner of rock with an angle of more than 90-degree between the faces. See also corner.
*edge*	A thin ledge.
*flake*	A thin slab of rock which may or may not be attached to the main face. The fact that it is not attached may only become obvious once you commit your weight to it.
*flared*	A crack or chimney whose sides are not parallel, thus forming two converging planes of rock.
*friable*	Delicate, easily broken and consequently dangerous rock.
*gendarme*	A pinnacle or isolated rock tower, often found along a ridge.
*groove*	A long indentation in the rock face. Not extensive or acute enough to be regarded as a corner or deep enough to be considered a crack. Sometimes it may be so slight as to be only identifiable by the first ascensionist and the word was used when they were trying to conjure up a route description.
*gully*	A wide, shallow ravine on a mountainside. Sometimes carries waterflow, permanent or seasonal.
*headwall*	A steeper section at the upper part of a rock face especially at the top of easier-angled slabs etc..
*niche*	A shallow recess in the rock.
*nose*	A protrusion in the rock, larger than a bulge. Also, more rarely, a synonym for buttress.
*off-width*	A crack that is too wide for hand or foot jams but is not as large as a chimney.
*overhang*	A section of rock that is angled beyond vertical. See also roof.
*overlap*	A step on a slab where an upper layer of rock lies on an exposed lower layer. Also under cut or under cling.
*pillar*	An isolated finger or tower of rock which need not be detached from the main face. But also can be a synonym for buttress.
*pocket*	A (small) hole in the rock face which can be used as a hold.
*ramp*	An ascending ledge.
*re-entrant*	A small valley-like terrain feature, formed between two parallel ridges or spurs.
*rib*	A short, small buttress. An outside corner is even smaller.
*ridge*	A high divide extending out from a peak.
*roof*	A horizontal overhang.
*runnel*	A groove in a rock face, often caused by water erosion.
*sentry-box*	A square sided niche, usually large enough for a body. Classic example at the base of Helios in Dalkey.
*slab*	A section of rock face with a relatively low-angle (significantly less than vertical). Often barren of features & protection.
*spike/spilikin*	A significant finger of rock protruding (usually vertically) from the rock face.
*tufa*	A protruding limestone rib formation that may grasped in a pinch.
*zawn*	A coastal sea inlet, the sides of which often form climbing crags.

Part II: Terms & Euphemisms

The vernacular used in describing a climbing route. Important clues to your success on a route can be lurking behind a single innocuous word.

Term	Definition
*airy*	See exposed.
*anchor*	Whereby a climber makes themselves safe by placing protection and tying to it so that, for example, they may build a belay to then bring up a second safely. Think IDEAL (Independent, Directional, Equalised, Angles & Loaded)
*belay*	The point between pitches in a multipitch climb. A belay is build from multiple anchors (2 or more). See also stance.
*beta*	Obtaining prior knowledge & advice on aspects of a particular climb.
*bold*	Similar to committing. A term used to describe unprotected moves at the limit of the grade which would cause serious consequences if not carried out successfully. Pilaster in Dalkey Quarry is graded VS(4c) but the “bold” initial moves have resulted in many broken ankles.
*bomber/ bomb-proof*	A resoundingly satisfying gear placement that can result in near euphoric joie de vivre.
*committing*	That point in a climb when you have to progress from point A to point B whilst every part of your body is questioning your adoption of this sport.
*crux*	The most difficult portion of a climb. Often you may be given an idea of how well protected a crux may be.
*delicate*	A section relying on poise, balance and technique rather than strength and enthusiasm. Holds may be minimal, as may be protection (see runout below).
*eliminate*	A route between two pre-existing lines which scrupulously avoids both..
*exciting*	If it says it’s exciting, you likely won’t be disappointed. Bold and possibly difficult with it. Stay calm.
*exposure*	The degree to which one feels one is clinging to the edge of something tenuous over a large drop. Also airy.
*gear*	Nuts, hexes, cams and all that climbing paraphernalia. As with protection, a route may have good or poor gear. Gear suggestions may also be noted, such as, “thin wires” or “large cam” or even Tricam #3.
*interesting/* *“with interest”*	A puzzling section of a climb, requiring a period of contemplation before proceeding.
*memorable*	You’ll never forget the first time.
*peg*	A metal spike (piton) from the times before nuts & hexes & cams and all that. As such, it will be old and quite possibly unsound; although often corrosion may not be visible.
*pitch*	A section of a climb between two belay points.
*polish*	The curse of popularity. Rock repeatedly smoothed & eroded by climbing traffic. At its worst some rocks (like limestone) can attain a marble-like patina. Can lead to sandbags (see below). By its nature, more common on lower grade, roadside crags.
*protection*	Use of gear. May distinguish between part of a route being well protected or poorly protected (or you may have to infer that, see runout)
*runout*	A long portion of a route with minimal protection. This may be indicated by a lower technical grade than expected for the associated adjectival grade. For example, HS(4b) is a common grade pairing and so to the novice a grade of HS(4a) may, upon first glance, appear to be easier (because the hardest move is 4a) but it still requires HS skills due to the lack of protection.
*sandbag*	An undergraded climb, leading the climber to believe it is within their abilities, only to find to the contrary at a usually inconvenient moment. A sandbag may be genuinely misgraded or may have achieved it over time due to essential parts of the climb falling off or becoming unduly polished due to popularity.
*stance*	See belay.
*thoughtful*	See interesting.
*thread/thread belay*	Protection that can be achieved by threading a sling through a passageway in the rock. Common in limestone.
*traditional*	In the context of route descriptions, this means an old route and as such may be a sandbag or polished. Or both.
*vegetated*	Those unpleasant sections of a rock climb that are not rock. Generally green and either slippery and/or prickly. May possibly be addressed by gardening (in moderation)

Part III: Holds & Movements

Terms used to suggested an approach to a climbing route, less frequent as it can be regarded as a form of beta (see Part II for beta). Can also be used to provide insight into navigation on a route.

Term	Definition
*bridge*	Using two widely space footholds for support, typically in corners. May allow hands free rest.
*campus*	Climbing without using ones feet.
*cup*	See guppy.
*crimp*	A hold that uses just the tips of the fingers.
*downclimb*	To climb downwards (typically reversing a route).
*drop knee*	See egyptian.
*dyno*	A dynamic move, using your momentum to gain a hold that would otherwise be out of reach.
*edging*	Using edge of shoe on small features.
*egyptian*	Position acquired by twisting the body against the wall so that one knee is dropped below the foot. See also drop knee.
*flag*	Using a leg as a counter-balance (can employ normal, reverse inside & reverse outside flags).
*gaston*	A reverse side pull. That is, pushing away to maintain balance/grip rather than pulling towards. A Double Gaston resembles prying open the doors of a lift. (Named after a famous picture of Gaston Rébuffat).
*guppy*	A hold formed by cupping ones hand over a feature and squeezing. See also cup.
*hook*	Technique of placing toe or heel on a hold to improve balance.
*jam*	Insert various bodily appendages into sympathetically sized cracks. May use fingerlocks, hands, toes, feet, arms, legs, shoulders, etc. Use of head not recommended.
*jug*	A large,easy, immensely reassuring hold.
*layback*	A technique whereby hands side pull on a crack whilst feet walk up close to them. Check the wall your feet will be using for small bits of vegetation growing from the crack, as to step on said vegetation mid-layback can result in dramatic failure.
*mantle/mantleshelf*	Technique used to gain a ledge by initially pulling up and then pushing down with hands so that feet can be placed on ledge. Best practised at your local swimming pool rather than on your fireplace.
*match*	To place both hands (or feet) on the same hold.
*mono*	A pocket with room for just a single finger.
*pinch*	As it suggests, a hold that can be pinched.
*smear*	In the absence of defined footholds, placing the full sole of the shoe on the rock and relying on friction for adhesion.
*thrutch*	A non-graceful move generally associate with mucky chimneys. Normally accompanied by a certain degree of grunting and possible blue language.
*traverse*	A sideways movement. Be aware of the potential for both lead & second to take a swing if adequate protection not available. And even if protection is available, be aware of creating debilitating rope drag that you will curse further up the pitch.

[Republished from the IMC Newsletter, Summer 2015]

Luggala, Revised Topo, Selected Climbs, Sept 2014

Hi all,
I have revised some of the topos for Luggala.
I have asked people more familiar with the crag than I am, compared notes and examined the topos in the Wicklow Guidebook and also the photos on line on the IMC site.
The IMC site seems to have more current lines.
I have added some photos and info to help people unfamiliar with the crag to get about. Not all routes have been updated, just a selection, that might be useful for the meet on Saturday 20 September.
I have also added belay points.
If anyone see anything that is inaccurate please let me know.
Also, if you are climbing at the crag try and take photos of the routes and belay positions, putting them in context of the rest of the crag. I can add the photos to the topos if they are helpful.

For ‘Low Res’ web version please see below.

Let me know if you have any problems.

Regards

Ken

kdo@eircom.net

086 8340932

Luggala Main Face

Luggala Main Face, South Buttress right

Luggala, South Buttress left

Luggala Main Face, South Buttress right and left

Luggala Topo South Buttress Right
The Waters and the Wild

(by Gerry Moss, December 2013)
New crags and new routes at Lough Nahanagan near the Wicklow Gap

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