There is a region of heart’s desire, free for the hand that wills,
Land of peak and soaring spire – mystical land of hills.
Since the October Bank Holiday was created, back in the late seventies, the IMC has celebrated it with a meet to Snowdonia. It was organised at first by the late Fred Thompson and then for years by Des Doyle, before I stepped in. But the effects of climate change became very evident over the last couple of decades, as that time of year became wetter and wetter.
So this year we switched the meet to the June Bank Holiday weekend and, guess what, we had rain too! But damp spirits were never a factor with this bunch. We had nineteen members on the meet, plus a couple of guests and it was all go, from the moment the front runners drove off the boat on Thursday evening, until the last team boarded the ferry on Bank Holiday Monday.
That mountains make their own weather was the story of the weekend, as the tops remained shrouded in cloud most days but, on the other hand, the coastal strip was blessed with fine weather throughout. So Holyhead Mountain, Gogarth and the steep limestone cliffs at Llandudno all provided climbing opportunities, as did the quick-drying slate in Dinorwic quarry. Over the course of the weekend routes ranging from V. Diff to E4 were climbed.
Nor was hill walking neglected, with ascents of the shapely Cnicht and the Snowdon Horseshoe, while some enjoyed scrambling routes each day.
On Friday evening, as we made our way back to the car after a full day’s climbing on Holyhead Mountain, we met Hugh and Dave, fresh off the ferry, heading for the crag, keen to make the most of the long, bright evenings. This epitomised the attitude of everyone throughout the weekend and the hut was a hive of activity each morning as plans were hatched and gear sorted.
Saturday morning was wet and windy, so Cathy and I, rather presumptuously, announced we were heading for Snakes and Ladders, a unique excursion through Dinorwic quarry. With a debatable grade of HVS, it wends its way through several tunnels; includes the notorious chain pitch; an abseil; a scree slope and the ascent of numerous rusty, shaky ladders. Fortunately for us, by the time we arrived at the carpark six others had joined up. That we all managed the chain pitch, where the wet slate was as greasy as a witches snot, was due, in no small part, to a combination of strength and ropework by Andrew and Andy. That we found our way back to the cars at the end of the day was an achievement in itself, given my best efforts to lead them astray.
The great thing about slate is that it dries within minutes of the rain stopping and each day there were dry periods. Several of our members took advantage of this to tackle some of the numerous sports routes scattered throughout the quarry, with Síle and Dave’s ascent of a seven pitch E1 being one of the highlights.
It wouldn’t be a Snowdonia meet without an encounter with the infamous Lockwood’s Chimney. An outing not to be missed by newcomers and one to be avoided by those who know better. Here young Killian displayed an emerging climbing talent in less than optimum conditions, the successful party having the extra trauma of an encounter with a barn owl roosting in the chimney.
The Gwynedd Inn in Llanberis was the preferred meeting place in the evenings, where tales of derring-do were aired and copious meals consumed. The T12 mountaineering shop in the village was a virtual Aladdin’s Cave of alluring climbing gear, which few could resist.
The final day of the meet saw great activity at Gogarth, with several parties enjoying the wonderful Lighthouse Arete, while others had a more relaxing day on Holyhead Mountain. All in all a very successful meet, with as cheerful and good natured a group as one could wish for. It can be safely said that the IMC is in good health and long may this continue.
Our thanks to Chester Mountaineering Club for the use of their fine hut, situated a short distance above the village of Llanberis. Finally, my thanks to all for their kindness and patience over the five days and a special thanks to Cathy for taking on the brunt of the work involved.
