Recently Hugh Reynolds and I visited Chamonix with a tentative list of potential objectives.  Over two weeks we did the following routes:

– SE Ridge Index, Aiguille Rouge (AD 4c)

– Petits Charmoz Traverse (AD 4c)

– Clocher-Clochetrons Traverse (AD 5a)

– Arete des Cosmiques, Aiguille di Midi (AD)

– Modern Times, Aiguille Rouge (D- 5a)

– Plus a rake of sport climbs in the Les Cheserys and Vallorcine sectors.

The weather remained largely good.  On the plus side, Chamonix offers access to many mountains and routes on account of the extensive cable car and ski lift infrastructure.  The downside, it’s an expensive place to stay.  Nevertheless, the climbing, as expected, was excellent.  Of the routes we did, the stand-out one was the Petits Charmoz Traverse.  It gave us the longest, toughest day out.  Firstly, the approach is a two-hour hike from the Plan d’Aiguille cable station – doubled to return.  Though the rock quality is very good, large sections of recent rockfall has altered the route, which posed additional challenge to the normal challenge of route-finding.  We considered the route undegraded, but it didn’t help that we did it in boots.  If we were to do it again in summer, we’d unquestionably do it in rock shoes.  Getting off it was also not an easy task.  Several unexpected 60m abseils required, followed by a scramble to a series of fixed ladders down onto the now retreated glacier.  Overall, we found our Rockfax description somewhat misleading, and out of date.  Despite all that it was a brilliant outing.  It is remote peak and, unlike many other routes, we had it to ourselves all day.  This and the challenges it presented, gave us the feel of a classic mountaineering adventure.  The highlight of our trip.

Clocher-Clocketrons Traverse was a fine, old-school alpine rockclimb, being a series of pinnacles involving slab climbing, chimney climbing, multiple abseils and … a Tyrolean traverse, which demands accurate lasso skill.  Very enjoyable and worthwhile. 

The Cosmique Arete was very busy, with parties bunching up at abseil points and at the crux – a short slab of about HS grade.  However, its situation on the massif is superb.  And its granite, course, giving maximum (sharp!) friction.  I had heard about the finish – up onto the viewing terrace of the Midi cable car station.  Up we went.  However, we hadn’t expected the ovation we received from the tourists on it, surprised by our arrival!

One could spend years exploring the Mont Blanc massif and Chamonix valley areas.  Unfortunately, holiday time is always limited.  Nevertheless, you always see more of what you’d like to do.

Next time hopefully …

Hugh, Gerry & the Ukrainian colours, Vallée Blanche

Chamonix belaying (Hugh)

Chamonix leading (Gerry)