Carrick 2 Crag Wicklow

Carrick meet postponed from last weekend will be based solely on Carrick 2 as this crag faces into the sun and should be dry.
Arrangements for meeting are as before – 9.30 in the Sugarloaf Way carpark at Kilmacanogue and we will be gone by 9.45.

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Below are some details of the crag
APPROACH. The crag is best approached from the forest entrance near Aghgowle, grid ref.T21909360.
Travelling from Dublin, take junction 16 on the M11, signposted Wicklow/Rathnew. At the roundabout in the village of Rathnew turn R onto the R752 and follow this road through the village of Glenealy. Turn R just before the railway overbridge, onto L2116 and follow this to take a signposted minor road on the R, which leads to a forest entrance on the R. This is the main entrance/exit for large lorries drawing timber from the forest, so leave plenty of room for them to do so when parking.
Go L at the T junction on the forest road and continue uphill to a complex junction (ca. 10 mins.) Continue straight ahead, with areas cleared of trees on both sides of the rising road. Shortly after a radio mast comes into view a crossroads is reached. Turn L and follow this road to a turning circle at the road head. From the top L of the turning circle go down a short firebreak and follow a line of small cairns to the foot of the crag, which can seen behind a belt of mature trees. A half-hour’s pleasant walk from the car park.
The climbs are described from R to L (E to W) as the crag is approached from this direction and I have used small crag ethics, squeezing in as many routes as possible. Descent is via a one minute walk off, down through the trees. All gradings should be regarded as rough estimates and subject to change.

1. Isolation Nation. Diff. Start at the foot of a pointed block at the bottom R of the crag. From the top of the block step across onto a short sloping ramp. From the top of the ramp move up and follow the R edge to the top. Belay well back at a jammed block.

2. Virus direst. Severe (mild). Start as for 1. From the top of the block step across onto the bottom of a short sloping ramp. Climb up diagonally L to the foot of a shallow corner. Gain the corner (crux) and continue straight up. Belay well back at a jammed block.

3. Polemic Pandemic. VD. Start at the bottom L of the pointed block. Climb up bearing L for about 4m then move R into short L facing corner and straight up.

4. Be wise, sanitise. Diff. Start 1m L of 3. Climb up for 3m then step L onto arête and climb this to top.

5. Cocooners and Zoomers. Diff. Start 1m L of 4 below a niche. Step up and pull out L and follow cracks up to just R of tree stump.

6. Trump the Chump. HS 4a. Start 2m L of 5 at the foot of a shallow R-facing cracked corner. Climb the corner, moving out L near its top, then move up to below a R-slanting crack and narrow ramp. Step up R onto the ramp then move straight up, to finish L of the tree stump.

7. Dettol no cure-all. S. Start 2m L of 6, at foot of short R-slanting crack below a bulge. Climb the bulge and move up to a ledge. Finish direct.

8. 2 meters, 6 feeters. Severe (mild). 2m L of 7 below cracked corner. Climb the corner to below ledge with small dead tree on the L. Step across R, climb up over 2 ledges and pull up to easier ground (crux).

9. 5k – don’t stray. S. Start 2m L of 8,below short corner. Climb the corner until level with small dead tree on the R. Move straight up from here (crux).

10. Health Carers – brunt bearers. VS4b. Start 3m R of, and down from, a small pine tree, below crack in short wall. Climb the crack and move up to a ledge below another crack in a short, impending wall. Up over this to the top.

11. Stuck at Home, ÓChón. VS4c. Start about 12m L of 10 at the foot of a large rowan tree growing close to the face of an undercut buttress. Climb the face, on large jugs at first, the holds growing smaller with height. Belay at the pine tree.

12. Hold firm, don’t squirm. HS4a. Start 1m L of the large rowan tree. Climb the L edge, a steep start leading to easier climbing. Belay at the pine tree.

For full details, with topos, check out Carrick on Climbing – new crag on Carrick, which can be found on the Info forum on this site.