Achill Island, Mayo W/E

Hopefully an Island in the Sun in 2023 – Achill Island is a stunning location off the coast of Mayo. It ticks all the boxes – a wide range of crags at all levels, lots of options fro accommodation and easy access via a bridge so perfect for camper vans, cars, bikes or sure walk over! Happily we have our own island guru and author Dave Walsh hosting the event.

Here’s the detailed lowdown DW has put together

Wild camping
Golden Strand sand dunes 699-091. Keep out of the Achill Rovers (known locally as The Valley) soccer pitch area EirCode F28 N6X8 but there are extensive sand dunes here and wild camping galore. Dogs are an issue, but the farmer is easy to deal with. About 2.5km as the crow flies east of Doogort beach.

The Valley Hostel 709-088 See here

Also a pub, burger / pizza place EirCode F28 D8F7, some camping, within walking distance of Golden Strand camping.

Dookinella 658-030. Essentially the “wrong” end of Keel beach under the start of the Minaun cliffs. There is no swimming here and a rocky foreshore. Dogs are an issue, but the farmer is easy to deal with. Turn left at the Crossroads Bar before Keel, then 2km south.

Paying Camping
Sea Caves 675-087. https://achillsealcaves.com/ Eircode F28 P273. Family orientated so park outside if arriving after about 9.00pm when the gates are closed. Done up recently. Probably wise to book.

Hotels
Alice’s at the Sound https://achillislandhotel.com/alices-harbour-bar/ . Everything else is currently full.
EirB&B everywhere but needs to be booked, needs minimum 3 nights.

The climbing
http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Achill
Mostly single pitch climbing centred on grades Severe / Hard Severe. There are three main sections, East, Middle and West. East and West seem to have the easiest access, lots of easier climbs, and generally the less challenging environment. Parts of the east may involve abseiling in from stakes hammered into the ground and/or hanging belays (senior hurling, so to speak). Investigations with regard to the middle (and generally) are ongoing. These cliffs carry the coveted GMoss gold seal of approval.

Tides.
Mornings favoured
Local HW Bottom half until
Thursday 1330
Friday 1400
Saturday 1440
Sunday 1530
Monday 1600

Local information,  – see featured pic
Crags 2/3/4 are OK. Climbs vary, ledges, seven some hanging belays. Californification would be right for where to start. Walk in, which is steep but short, climbing is tide free. 8 – 10 good routes
Big Blue 5 is right beside it. Walk in (steep) / solid abseil from self placed belays. There are some hanging belays, but others too.
No mention of what I call the “middle section”.
Waterfall cove east 13 is scramble down.
Waterfall cove west 14, there are 4 / 5 stakes. Aluminium he thinks, spread the load between the lot of them and leave dedicated a rope in situ for abseiling, takes a lot of rope. After that make sure nobody is standing below the abseil point because the top few metres are like moraine and rock will fall. He has taken groups there and with care it’s fine. Climb from ledges.
Crag 17 is 10m, short but nice easy routes, easy access.