Achill Island, Mayo W/E

Scroll down to see all details for this meet – in the meantime, here’s an update on practicalities – like eating! – from DW 29/5/23

I’ve checked out the take-away food scene and it sounds OK.  Every sit down place will be booked out, totally, but there are two chippers in Keel, two pizza places in Achill Sound one of which also has take away curry, Mastersons and the Hot Spot.  A few miles out of the way but no matter.  A posh restaurant in Doogort called Pure Magic does take away sometimes, worth checking out.  The Valley Hostel does pub grub, and it’s in walking distance, but I am told you will be well oiled by the time the food arrives.   There is also paying camping at the Valley, so there would be toilets. Public toilets may be had at Keel beach, Golden Strand beach (quite close to the camping area), and at Caoim, anywhere there is a Blue Flag beach. The road Keel to Caoim below which are the crags is so busy and there being no parking after about 0800 any morning at Caoim, there is a shuttle bus from Keel, but it won’t stop at the crags.  The advice for large groups is to not park at all on the road itself, but there are two side roads and they should be fine, one into a housing estate and one up to a water works.  The road has been resurfaced and even widened but parking on it is a way to lose a mirror, though there are spots for a small handful of cars.

Hopefully an Island in the Sun in 2023 – Achill Island is a stunning location off the coast of Mayo. It ticks all the boxes – a wide range of crags at all levels, lots of options fro accommodation and easy access via a bridge so perfect for camper vans, cars, bikes or sure walk over! Happily we have our own island guru and author Dave Walsh hosting the event.

Here’s the detailed lowdown DW has put together

Wild camping
Golden Strand sand dunes 699-091. Keep out of the Achill Rovers (known locally as The Valley) soccer pitch area EirCode F28 N6X8 but there are extensive sand dunes here and wild camping galore. Dogs are an issue, but the farmer is easy to deal with. About 2.5km as the crow flies east of Doogort beach.

The Valley Hostel 709-088 See here

Also a pub, burger / pizza place EirCode F28 D8F7, some camping, within walking distance of Golden Strand camping.

Dookinella 658-030. Essentially the “wrong” end of Keel beach under the start of the Minaun cliffs. There is no swimming here and a rocky foreshore. Dogs are an issue, but the farmer is easy to deal with. Turn left at the Crossroads Bar before Keel, then 2km south.

Paying Camping
Sea Caves 675-087. https://achillsealcaves.com/ Eircode F28 P273. Family orientated so park outside if arriving after about 9.00pm when the gates are closed. Done up recently. Probably wise to book.

Hotels
Alice’s at the Sound https://achillislandhotel.com/alices-harbour-bar/ . Everything else is currently full.
EirB&B everywhere but needs to be booked, needs minimum 3 nights.

The climbing
http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Achill
Mostly single pitch climbing centred on grades Severe / Hard Severe. There are three main sections, East, Middle and West. East and West seem to have the easiest access, lots of easier climbs, and generally the less challenging environment. Parts of the east may involve abseiling in from stakes hammered into the ground and/or hanging belays (senior hurling, so to speak). Investigations with regard to the middle (and generally) are ongoing. These cliffs carry the coveted GMoss gold seal of approval.

Tides.
Mornings favoured
Local HW Bottom half until
Thursday 1330
Friday 1400
Saturday 1440
Sunday 1530
Monday 1600

Local information,  – see featured pic
Crags 2/3/4 are OK. Climbs vary, ledges, seven some hanging belays. Californification would be right for where to start. Walk in, which is steep but short, climbing is tide free. 8 – 10 good routes
Big Blue 5 is right beside it. Walk in (steep) / solid abseil from self placed belays. There are some hanging belays, but others too.
No mention of what I call the “middle section”.
Waterfall cove east 13 is scramble down.
Waterfall cove west 14, there are 4 / 5 stakes. Aluminium he thinks, spread the load between the lot of them and leave dedicated a rope in situ for abseiling, takes a lot of rope. After that make sure nobody is standing below the abseil point because the top few metres are like moraine and rock will fall. He has taken groups there and with care it’s fine. Climb from ledges.
Crag 17 is 10m, short but nice easy routes, easy access.