Cruit Island – Island in the Sun (We Keep Coming Back and So Should You)

Cruit Island is one of those places that gets under your skin. Wave-washed granite, sea cliffs, boulders, the odd seal judging you from below — and routes for everyone from absolute beginner to seasoned trad climber. Yes, it can take five hours from Dublin. Yes, it is absolutely worth it.

Access is via a bridge (no boats, no swimming with your rack), and if you’re very lucky you might spot Iain Miller — who wrote the guidebook — actually out on the rock. The man is practically part of the geology at this point. Download his guide before you go.

With 9 or 10 crags to choose from, there’s genuinely something for every level. Complete beginners can get their eye in at the outdoor climbing wall or on the Minor Tridents. Those looking for their first trad lead will find plenty of friendly routes to build confidence on. And for those further up the grades, the likes of Best Poss Taste, Safe & Sound, and the iconic Cruit Crack are waiting. Some people even venture around the corner to One Move Wonder and discover there are, in fact, multiple ways to deal with the one move.

The tides run the show, so keep an eye on them — but that just means you rotate around the crags as the day goes on, which keeps things interesting.

Camping is right at the crags, right on the beach, with the landowner’s blessing. No facilities, no running water, just location, location, location — and if previous trips are anything to go by, marshmallows over a BBQ under a van awning while a storm rolls in. LNT principles apply. Camping location here.

Not a camper? No problem:

• Carey’s Viking House Hotel — right where the Cruit road meets the coast road. Pauline does group rates. Call (074) 954 3295.
• Cruit Thatched Cottages — contact Donal Ó Murchú on 087-236 4963. Likely rented Saturday to Saturday so plan ahead.
• Two bed en-suite cottage — Brian McGonagle (086 8480763) has a place ¼ mile from the Viking House Hotel, five minutes from the climbing.
• Caisleáin Óir, Annagry — about 5 miles east. The food is genuinely superb.

The nearest pub and food on the island is the golf course — a 20-30 minute walk from camp. Just long enough to justify a second pint.

Previous attendees have described the weekend as everything from “amazing” to the kind of trip where you lead something you swore you wouldn’t, halfway up it, and somehow it all works out. First-timers, nervous leaders, seasoned climbers — everyone leaves happy.

Come. The rock is sticky and the craic is mighty.