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  • The Sunny South-East

    (by Gerry Moss, June 2012)
    A pleasant day’s climbing at Ardmore.


    With the weathermen giving the thumbs down for climbing on Saturday in Glendalough, and having already made our contribution on the first beginners’ weekend, we decided to escape the east coast and head down to Ardmore in Waterford, where more favourable conditions were promised. Mind you, driving down through the steady rain early Saturday morning, it looked like we were pushing our luck.

    But Ardmore came through, as per usual, with the rain clearing off just before we arrived, and it turned into a very pleasant day, with such good sunny spells that one could almost be lulled into thinking that summer had arrived at last.

    We abbed in to the foot of Ardmore Head and did a few routes, and Joe, on his first visit to this particular spot, added another one to the pot – a nice, delicate slab climb.

    Although the winds were light, the sea, in the aftermath of two stormy days, was running a heavy swell, leading to some spectacular sights and sounds as the waves thundered against the cliffs. But the rock below the Tea Flag was dry as snuff, a pleasure to climb on, and Niamh took advantage of the good conditions to notch up a few leads.

    A grand day out, and no rainwear needed.

  • Far from the Madding Crowd …

    (by Gerry Moss, May 2010)
    A day on the sandstone sea-cliffs of Ardmore.


    Having sampled the delights of the Mournes the previous Saturday, this time we elected for a trip down south to the seacliffs of Ardmore.

    For Barry and Padraic it was a first taste of the delights of these sandstone cliffs, so we concentrated on some of our favourite areas. The violent seastorms of last November had swept away a couple of climbs but, thankfully, the delectable corner of "By Memory Inspired" was still intact and as enjoyable as ever.

    Then, it was on to Basecamp Buttress, where Padraic tackled the delicate traverse on "The Mason’s Apron" with poise and aplomb.

    We watched with bated breath as he made the airy moves, and the tension can be judged by the way Joe is clutching nervously at his nuts.

    Every cripple has his own way of walking, and every climber his or her own way of proceeding. But it has to be admitted that being on the short side can sometimes make life more difficult.

    Finally, we visited The Capstone Buttress, an area that can be approached either by abseil or back-climbing, two skills essential for would-be alpinists.

    With the Lake District Meet drawing ever nearer, everyone was keen to get in a few leads, and why not?

    Finally, I’m happy to report that, unlike last week, the boring job of checking participants for clean underwear before allowing them back into the car went without incident.

  • Catch as Catch Can

    (by Gerry Moss, May 2009)
    Climbing on the sea-cliffs at Ardmore, Co. Waterford.


    A wet and windy May fills the barns full of hay, so it’s not all bad news then. With the weathermen promising iffy weather almost everywhere, we heeded their advice and headed for the sunny south-east – the sea-cliffs of Ardmore in Co. Waterford to be exact.

    Having to abseil down overhanging rock to reach the foot of the climbs always adds a little frisson of excitement to the proceedings, and a brisk wind, making for a lively sea, further enhanced the situation.

    The rich hues, rough texture, and jumbled architecture of the sandstone sea-cliffs all combine to produce some very atmospheric routes.

    While the rock is generally sound, storms can wreak changes to all cliffs exposed to the onslaught of the waves, so caution and careful attention is always needed. An incoming, boistrous tide added a sense of urgency to matters as the day wore on, particularly for the second.

    The sea-pink and kidney vetch were in full bloom; the upper rocks covered in vivid patches of lichens; we were surveyed by seals, serenaded by choughs and entertained by the aerobatics of the gannets. We had no rain and even espied some patches of blue sky.

    All-in-all, a very pleasant day.

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Irish Mountaineering Club
Glendasan
Glendalough
Co. Wicklow
A98 EY91
Ireland

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