Name: Club Climbing Night
Start: 2026-09-03T18:00:00+01:00
End: 2026-09-03T21:00:00+01:00
Location: Dalkey Quarry

2015 Newbies Head to The Burren

Some of the new members from the 2015 New Members Programme got together on 26-28 September in the Burren, Co Clare. One of our number had recently climbed at a small crag there called Ballyryan and told us there were some nice easy climbs so off we set.

I arrived to Aille River Hostel on Friday night and had to pitch my tent in the dark, even though I had taken the day off work life still got in the way! On arrival I knew the others, Derek – Thierry – Cedric – Pam – Peter and Emma, were already there and had gone for something to eat but they waited until after that to put up their tents so we all had a bit of craic.

The camping field in the hostel was small but very nice with the river right beside us. We all helped each other pitch the tents and it was done in no time at all. We then adjourned to the local hostelry, Fitz Bar, up the road to plan the next day’s climbing. Pam was elected El Presidente for the weekend. My ambitions for the weekend were to get a couple of Severe climbs done, climb a chimney and maybe look at a Hard Severe or two.

On Saturday morning Gina joined us and we set off for Ballyryan, the weather was perfect, dry – bright – slight breeze. We got there and we were all impressed by the crag. We initially looked at the face and found a few climbs we wanted climb, we then climbed an access gully to check out the anchors. We set about climbing then, Peter set up a top rope on Chimney (D) so people could warm up if they wanted.

I started off leading Rib (VD), it was a nice little climb and no protection needed until at least half way up. There was not much protect and the little slabby bit at the end was the only tough bit but I got up it no problem. Anchoring at the top was not as easy as in Dalkey Quarry – I missed those gorse bushes – but there was enough with slings, hexes and big nuts. I seconded Aoife (my daughter) up the climb and she liked it, I then belayed a few more so they could experience the climb.

I then moved over to Wide Chimney (D) that was no problem. I got the chimney climb in, I had never climbed a chimney before but had a good idea what is was about and really enjoyed it. Then I lead Right Crack (VD) and that was a nice climb with nothing difficult on it and seconded Gina. It was a great morning but it was time for lunch. Breaking with tradition we decided to go back to the hostel, because it was only a 10 minute drive away, for lunch. We had a table to eat at and kettles for hot water. It was a bit of a mixed bag with everyone throwing in what they had and helping themselves. We were only gone for an hour and rearing to go when we got back.

After lunch it was time to do the Severe climbs. I started by leading Frost in May (S) and the crux was getting from the ledge to the top. It was a delicate little move but I got it and was chuffed at myself. I seconded Cedric on the climb and Gina followed. We then moved onto Ballyalpine (S) and this was an interesting climb as well, the little traverse to the right was not as difficult as I thought and I managed it with no problem. I was on a high now and just saw Emma on Vulgarian (S) so decide it was worth a go and managed it with no difficulty.

I was feeling the strain at this stage and the adrenaline was wearing off. I looked at some HS’s – Left Crack, The Alcove Crack and Triumph Crack – but I decided I wanted to finish on the high so decided against it. I now have a reason to go back again . Well done to Thierry as he lead Triumph Crack.

Gina decided it was time to do her first lead, she had seconded Right Crack (VD) earlier and felt comfortable doing that so off she set with Cedric belaying her. I met her at the top as she wasn’t too confident about anchors and she set them up no problem and seconded Cedric. WELL DONE Gina.

Ballyryan was such a great crag for us to visit. It had nice easy climbs to get us into the swing of it again and a few challenging ones with a few very hard ones if we wanted to be adventurous. I thoroughly enjoyed the day and managed to get all the things on my list ticked off, remember I did say look at some HS climbs. I would definitely recommend it for anyone that wants to get some good climbing done, the only down side is that the crag is not too high so the routes are short.

On the Sunday morning the group went in two directions with some going to Lahinch for a spot of surfing and some of us going to Doolin Beach to do a bit of bouldering. The walk into Doolin Beach was long but nice, most of us were feeling wrecked from the climbing the day before.

All except Derek “the energiser bunny” who had one climb done before I even opened the mat, three done while I looked at the bouldering guide and five done before I got my shoes on – he was on fire this morning. Derek had been there before so we did a few climbs he knew and general did anything that looked easy (in my case anyway). It was an enjoyable morning and with the long drive ahead of us back to Dublin we finished around lunch time.

All in all it was a fantastic weekend with the 2015 newbies getting in a lot of good climbing and surfing. It was not all about the climbing though with a good social element involved. A lot of good friendships have been forged thanks to the IMC 2015 New Members Programme. I can’t wait for the next trip away, Glendalough in November was mentioned, looking forward to it.
West is Best?

(by Dave Craig, September 2008)
A weekend at Ailladie, climbing when dry enough, surfing when not.

A summer Noah could have been proud of, has left little options for climbers at home. Quick-drying crags around the country all seem to have one thing in common, there are not many routes on them. That is of course excepting Ailladie, which has a huge number of routes on some of the best rock in the country. Routes that start to dry as soon as it stops raining, routes that are dry when it stops raining and routes you can climb in the rain!! So with this in mind and a vague promise from the weatherman that it might stop raining briefly over the weekend, we headed off.

The wet weather also means you seem to lose touch with other climbers. So when driving through Fanore, we spotted a few, it seemed only neighbourly to go say hello. Alas! I am sorry to say climbing seemed to be the last thing on their minds.

However I was soon to learn that there might be some sense to this madness, waves like mountains are there to be climbed, and just like in the mountains this lot seemed to spend more time underneath them getting wet than up on top.

Some managed better than others it has to be said,

with the best of course rising to the top,

It wasn’t all fun and games though as Conor and Nicky had to apply some TLC to Terry O’Connor after a weaver fish stung him.

Eventually though the rain had held off long enough to warrant at least looking at the crag. Myself and Síle abbed into Stone Wall and climbed Western Pride, E1 5b. This end of the crag seems to dry a bit quicker than the other and is a good option for such days. Before we could get a second route the rain returned, so we bailed out.

The next day was better weather-wise, with the gaps between the showers being slightly longer. We returned to Stone Wall where Síle did a fine lead on Garbh, E2 5c, to start us off. Terry wanted his own go on Western Pride and I had a crack at Kleptomaniac, E3 6a, down at Aran Wall, but ran out of steam just above the crux; there’s never a shower when you need a good excuse.

Anyone who hasn’t climbed on sea cliffs might want to note the bag with the ropes paid into it ready to go, used to stop waves washing the ropes out to sea. The best approach to abbing in to spots like this is well described in the new Burren guide (and the old one), although it is probably still best to talk to someone who has done it, before going down yourself.

Terry O’Connor’s stung foot must have been contagious as the three lads never showed on the Sunday, the hot humid atmosphere in McGann’s is ripe for the spread of such things.

Myself and Síle stayed on for the Monday, watching showers pass over all morning. Then a slight improvement in the afternoon tempted us into Murroughkilly, where we climbed Bronco, VS 4c. Not unexpectedly, the weather changed giving a fitting end to this summer, which saw me sliding down the descent ramp on my rear with hailstones bouncing off my head and completely soaked to the skin. I can only conclude: WEST IS BEST ME ARSE; next time I’m off some place sunny!
The Burren meet

(by Aisling Murphy, from IMC Newsletter Summer 2004)
Easter weekend climbing in Clare.

The Burren is situated on the West coast of Ireland. What I would describe as one of the most beautiful parts of Ireland. Most of the climbing is on well-formed limestone. There are various places to climb with a huge diversity of grades.

A group of us went to The Burren this year at Easter. We were very lucky with the weather; the sun was splitting the rock most of the time. Most of us travelled down on Thursday so as to get a full day’s climbing on Friday. We stayed the Boghill Hostel just outside Lisdoonvarna.

On Friday we set off for Ballyryan, which is, situated inland. For people who want a nice challenging climb, Elvis Who? (HVS) is a good climb. On Saturday we were heading out to the coast to go to Dancing Ledges, but it started to rain. So we thought it might be drier inland. Luckily by the time we got to the Aillwee Cave the rock was dry enough to climb. The fact that a few of the climbs have Skull in their name made me wonder a bit, but I think everybody really enjoyed the climbing here. Martina and Dairín even set up a few climbs on the upper back walls!

We had to go to the pub that night to make up for the fact that it was Good Friday the night before! Some of us really did make up for it! On Sunday after hardly any sleep and a few headaches going around we headed to Dancing Ledges on the sea front. For some reason I didn’t fancy leading that day! But I really enjoyed seconding climbs like Genesis and Ground Control.

Dave Broderick

We woke up on Monday expecting it to be raining, however it was another beautiful day! We managed to get a few climbs in before heading home. I seconded Roger on Jug City. This was the highlight of my weekend. It was also the first time I had to abseil down to a climb that started just above the crashing waves! It was a bit unnerving at first but once I got down there it was cool! I really enjoyed the climb.

All in all I think everyone had a good weekend. Whether it was climbing or drinking! I would recommend The Burren to everyone from beginners setting up top ropes to people leading E’s.
Burren Meet – The best non-climbing meet ever!

(by Dairín Currey, from IMC Newsletter Winter 2004)
A wet weekend in the Burren, doing everything except climbing.

On Friday afternoon 24th September, a small group left for the Burren (there were two climbing weddings happening the same week-end). Dennis, Martina Nolan, Dave Dye, Martina, Dairín, Joaquin, Jessica, etc. Most of us stopped in Athlone for a hearty dinner. The weary bunch arrived late, past pub closure time, but were greeted at the hostel with a well-deserved glass of wine before retiring to bed!!

As usual we co-ordinated this meet with the local ‘Lisdoonvarna Bachelor Festival’. It makes the week-end more colourful, meeting very drunken locals, oozing alcohol from the pores. The town is pumping & the Hydro disco is full to bursting point. You never know, we might even be lucky enough to catch ourselves an elderly farming husband!!

Saturday dawned, dull, grey & WET, and put paid to any ideas of climbing. However, not to be easily deterred, we organised to meet Conor O’Connor and Nick to go caving – this being our first caving experience! Fair play to Conor and Nick on their patience in bringing absolute beginners. After a wrong turn – well it was grey and dull, we found our spot and kitted up. We didn’t really have the right gear (apart from Conor, Nick and Dennis) so were an odd bunch wearing whatever old clothes we could find, not knowing exactly what to expect. We then we descended into the dark recesses of the cave. We wandered through the cold and damp, the wet water and murky tunnels twisty and turning at sometimes sharp angles. Nick was an excellent guide full of loads of information and a strong gas lamp for those who didn’t have any light. We passed a gushing waterfall and continued on further into the cave. Three hours later we finally emerged out of the cave. Most of us were at the rope ready to climb back up to safety, only Conor and Nick had other ideas and brought us back into the cave to let us try our hand at potholing. We did a belly snakelike crawl using our elbows to drag us through the tight five metres before being able to turn around and crawl back out again. I think I’ll stick to caving!!!

Afterwards, we decided to clean up with a swim and surf at Fanore Beach, before hitting the nearest pub to warm up with a few hot whiskeys and brandies and ports. We were finally able to feel our toes again!!!

We then had just enough time to head home, get changed, and meet at another pub before our dinner at the best Italian Restaurant ‘Holywell’ in Bun-something. The servings were absolutely massive – thankfully we were all sharing starters, they have the best bruschetta and the pizzas were bigger than the plates!! The wine was flowing a plenty and the craic was mighty. Dave, Jaoquin, Martina and Jessica headed home after dinner and kept up the drinking till the wee hours. The rest of us headed for another pub and kept drinking. By this stage some of us were quite tired and nodded off oblivious to the noise around. The party continued for quite a while and we eventually headed back to our hostel in the wee hours of the morning.

Sunday morning dawned, again dull, grey & WET; however, we were enjoying the sleep in and wishing our heads would stop buzzing!! We arose quite late, had breakfast and headed home. And wouldn’t you know it, the rain had stopped and the rocks were looking dry, pity it was too late!!! All-in-all, despite the lack of climbing it was a fantastic week-end and the damp weather didn’t dampen the atmosphere or the craic! Thanks Martina Nolan for organising a great week-end.

2015 Newbies Head to The Burren

West is Best?

The Burren meet

Burren Meet – The best non-climbing meet ever!