Name: Club Climbing Night
Start: 2026-09-03T18:00:00+01:00
End: 2026-09-03T21:00:00+01:00
Location: Dalkey Quarry

Far from the Madding Crowd

(by Gerry Moss, July 2011)
A climbing trip to quiet West Cork.

Heading for the mountain crags at this time of year can be a little bit tricky. As always, you need dry weather but, in addition, during July and August, you need a brisk breeze. Any touch of humidity and the midges come swarming. Which is why, when we decided to head off for a few days last Monday, we opted for coastal crags – where you can nearly always depend upon having a sea breeze.

With the weathermen promising us some settled weather, particularly in the south, we opted for Sheep’s Head in West Cork, as neither Jane or Joe had been there before. It’s a long way down from Dublin, but it’s worth every mile of the journey, for it is truly an idyllic place, with views of Dunmanus Bay and Mizen Head on one side and Bantry Bay and the Beara peninsula on the other.

The community of Muintir Bháire have chosen the red blossom of the fuschia as the emblem of the area and aptly so, as the banks lining the narrow roads are covered in it, along with a profusion of many other flowers. Happily, the roads running along both sides of Sheep’s Head are too narrow to be negotiated by tour buses, so it has avoided the type of constant traffic that you find in places like Dingle and the Burren, for example.

We based ourselves in the little independent hostel in the village of Kilcrohane – it has only eight bunks and a tiny kitchen – so we were lucky enough to have it all to ourselves.

There is a wide variety of routes on the peninsula, ranging from delicate slabs to fingery walls and blocky overhangs. We left Dublin just before eight and were climbing shortly after noon. Our first climbs were on Carrignacappul, only a five minute walk from the car, yet as peaceful and remote as you could wish for. This is Joe on Be Not Afraid, a delightfully delicate VS, with excellent friction:

In the same area Jane led Calum’s Corner, a fine V. Diff, in a very atmospheric setting, starting from a small ledge at sea-level, which is accessed by a long abseil:

Then it was a short walk back up the road, followed by an equally short stroll along The Sheep’s Head Way to the striking Dooneen Wall. This is Jane on The Crooked Crack, another fine V. Diff:

On Tuesday, we opted for Tooreen, near the tip of the peninsula, where there are several outcrops, discovered by Herbert and I some years ago, while scouting out the area. Our target was Square Faced Buttress, a fine piece of rock as yet without any routes but, believe it or not, we all agreed that the weather was too warm for climbing here, as we were sheltered from the sea breeze. What fickle people we Irish are!

Fortunately the hillside hereabouts is peppered with outcrops and we were able to choose one suitably brushed by a pleasant breeze. We dubbed this one Whale Buttress for, as we climbed, we were entertained by a large whale puffing, blowing and lolling about in the sea below us. All part and parcel of The Sheep’s Head scene.

These are some shots of us putting up new routes in glorious weather:

On the Wednesday we dropped back to sea-level again, visiting the crag overlooking Trá Ruaim, with its little stoney beach and pier. We agreed that, rather than repeating the routes already there, we would add a few more. Which we did.

To end our trip we decided to take the plunge, and have our first dip of the year. Well, some of us did. One, who shall be nameless, only managed to get the lower half of the two-piece swimsuit wet. But this didn’t prevent the nameless one from chiding us for hesitating at the water’s edge, or from instructing us, in no uncertain terms, to get on with it and Man Up.

Never mind. It was a grand way to round off our trip, and the refreshingly cool water ensured that Joe was fully alert for the long drive home.

We arrived back to lower temperatures, blustery winds and frequent showers. In other words, an average Irish summer.
The Artful Dodgers

(by Gerry Moss, November 2010)
"The east coast of Cork was one area where dry weather and sunshine was promised, so the Artful Dodgers decided to take advantage of this and pay a return visit to Knockadoon."

I’m not a man for making lists myself, but if I did, it would be a list of crags to suss out, rather than individual climbs. Cherrypicking routes overlooks the fact that most crags have much more to offer than just one or two lines and besides, you will get much more pleasure from making your own selection rather than blindly following someone elses, or restricting yourself to any one grade.

We have fine crags the length and breadth of the country, from Inishowen to Robert’s Cove in Cork, from Ireland’s Eye to Achill and it pays to get to know them, as most will provide rewarding experiences. Although we get our fair share of wet weather during these winter months, it is rare enough for the bad weather to be countrywide on any given day, so there is always the possibility of dodging the rain and getting in a bit of climbing somewhere .

Saturday was a prime example of this, with showers forecast for much of the country. But the east coast of Cork was one area where dry weather and sunshine was promised, so the Artful Dodgers decided to take advantage of this and pay a return visit to Knockadoon.

Our rewards were blue skies, warm rock and a gentle breeze. You won’t find the routes here on any hitlist, because, like many of the coastal crags detailed on the route data base, very few climbers frequent the area. To my mind that makes a visit all the more enjoyable, as solitude is part and parcel of the ambience of these seacliffs.

And there is always the possibility of the pleasure that comes with adding something new to the pot, which we did on Saturday – a pleasant and delicate HS on the Cylinder Slabs.

So, don’t shackle yourself to someone else’s idea of what constitutes a good route – plough your own furrow. Don’t just buy the guidebooks, go over them thoroughly, then browse the route database too, and, above all else, carry on climbing.
Knockadoon

(by Gerry Moss, July 2010)
A great day’s climbing on the seacliffs of Knockadoon, in east Cork.

Headed south with Joe on Saturday to the seacliffs of Knockadoon, on the tip of Youghal Bay. A glorious day, as promised by the Met men, with blue skies and and a fresh breeze. Our arrival coincided with full tide, so, while waiting for it to recede, we sussed out a previously unclimbed buttress, abbing in to check for possible lines.

We spotted two, the first one involving tackling a small overhang head-on. But after the overhang had defeated both of us, I sidled around to the right and sneaked up on its blind side.

We abbed down again, this time to the bottom of a chimney just left of the face, and Joe put up a pleasant Mild Severe, his first new route at Knockadoon. "Escape from Hades" climbs a narrow chimney, breaks out left for an airy traverse, then tackles the break just left of the overhang.

We moved on then to West End Wall, the area with the steepest climbs hereabouts, and here I was repulsed not once, not twice, but three times by a line I had put up a few years ago. Which goes to prove that rock is very much akin to young people nowadays – no respect for their elders. The only possible way to save face now is to bump the route up a couple of grades.

Normally, we would have this place all to ourselves but, in the midst of my struggles, I was pleasantly surprised when Peter Britton popped his head over the top and greeted us. Before he moved down to Clonmel, Peter was a long-time and active member of the IMC and, during that time, we shared some memorable climbing weekends and Alpine trips. He is now one of the driving forces behind the Rathgormack Climbing Club, and has been very much involved in putting up new routes in the Comeraghs in latter years. Peter and I were the first to put up routes here on West End Wall, back in 2003. He was accompanied on Saturday by Stephen Gallwey, the creator of many of the impressive lines on the big cliff at the back of Coumshingaun.

They each had a young daughter in tow, and it was great to see the two girls, both accomplished climbers, scramble happily over the wonderful sandstone slabs that abound in Knockadoon.

We pressed on with the climbing, aware that rain was promised for about four o’clock, but we were packing our bags sometime after five before the first few drops appeared, bringing to an end another great day on the sea-cliffs.

Incidently, we met, as arranged, at the Spawell carpark, but the first thing we saw was a new notice, stating that parking was for customers only, and other cars would be clamped. We decided not to risk it. So, another option scuppered, then.
Head Hunting

(by Gerry Moss, October 2008)
A climbing trip to the Old Head of Kinsale.

I have made many day-trips to crags over the years, but last Saturday, accompanied by Liam, I travelled probably the furthest distance yet for a day’s climbing. It was to the Old Head of Kinsale, forty-five minutes beyond the city of Cork. A fairly long round trip, it’s true, but we had a couple of trump cards up our sleeves. The first one was the free travel card, one of the few advantages of being of a certain age, which allowed us to travel to Cork in the lap of luxury, thanks to Iarnród Éireann’s fast inter-city trains. Our second trump card was that Genevieve was among those attending the MCI gathering in Macroom, and this, coupled with the fact that Cork Mountaineering Club had procured permission from the local golf club for climbers to access the crag, clinched the matter (that permission should be needed to visit an area long frequented by climbers, walkers and anglers is a sore point, and an ongoing issue, yet to be resolved).

We arrived in Ceannt Station just before 10 am to be greeted by Genevieve, charioteer to the gods, and were whisked off to the gates of the golf club where we were to meet up with the MCI mini-bus carrying the rest of the climbers from Macroom. I’m always a bit wary of being taken in tow by local experts; they tend to take you to their favourite problematical climbs, delight in watching you struggle up the local sandbag routes, all the while declaring that it’s ‘a piece of piss’. But the disembarkation proved to be a bit of an anti-climax. As we waited with bated breath, just two climbers emerged, both of them from Kerry, no less. Never mind. The lack of quantity was more than compensated for by the quality of the two ladies in question – Margaret and Majella – two cheerful, independent types. A touch of Kerry gold, for sure.

Though the grey dawn had long since broken, there was still a grey mist on the sea’s face, and we couldn’t even see the base of the crag from the lighthouse compound. The two southerners soon located the way down and we were pleased to discover that, despite the mist, the rock was dry, the wind no more than a gentle zephyr, and the main slab rising from a commodious platform, well above the reach of the waves.

Perhaps all the activists were at the comp in DCU, doing some jug-pulling. Or perhaps it was the combination of slab and sandstone that deterred the snatch-and-grab brigade. For, in truth, there is precious little on the main slab to snatch at, and even less to grab.

This hoary old slab has aged gracefully, displaying nothing more than the slightest of wrinkles, despite its ancient origins. Holds to be stroked rather than choked – a brushing of the fingers, the lightest of pressure with the toes, sufficed to provide upward progress. A delightful scenario, in which everyone flourished, everyone made progress.

Wouln’t you know it, we overstayed our welcome, crammed in one climb too many, and found ourselves heading back along the road towards the car at a trot. Time was pressing and our rendezvous with the return train looking highly unlikely, but it was here that another side to Genevieve was disclosed. We bombed down narrow country roads at breakneck speeds, careened around blind corners at an alarming rate, soared over hump-backed bridges, nipped in and out of traffic lanes and treated traffic lights with disdain, to arrive at the station with minutes to spare.

Weak-kneed and ashen-faced, we tottered towards the ticket-master, while Genevieve executed what sounded suspiciously like a handbrake turn as, with much laughter and gaiety, the ladies sped off towards the fleshpots of Macroom.

Ah, what it is to be young.
Knockadoon – The story so far

(by Gerry Moss, from IMC Newsletters Spring 2004 and Autumn 2004)
A guide to climbing at Knockadoon Head, near Youghal, Co. Cork.

Knockadoon Head

Grid Ref X 089 695 OS Map 81 Discovery Series

Knockadoon Head, the western tip of Youghal Bay, lies 8 km south of Youghal town as the crow flies. The rock is categorised as "Gyleen Formation – sandstone, with mudstone and siltstone" and, in general, is sound, with good friction and good gear placements. As with all sea-cliffs, the more open the rock is to the scouring power of the waves, the cleaner and sounder it is. The main type of climbing on offer is on slabs, with the occasional steep wall thrown in for good measure.

Approach
Leave the Youghal/Cork road a little west of Youghal and head for the village of Ballymacoda. Follow the road through the village towards Knockadoon Pier (which is where the road ends). At a distance of less than 500m from the pier take a dirt road on the right (signpost for Knockadoon Camp). Follow the laneway to where it ends in a field in front of an old tower. Cars may be parked just inside the field. Although this is private land there are no access problems at present and, if climbers behave responsibly, this situation should remain unchanged.

Accommodation
There is a small commercial campsite ("Sonas" ph. 024-98960, or 024-98132) at Ring strand, 2km.before the laneway, on the left-hand side of the road, open Easter to October. The nearest hostel is at Ardmore in Co. Waterford, thirty minutes drive away (Note: the independent hostel listed in Youghal has closed permanently).

The climbing areas, and the climbs within each area, are described from W to E (L to R, facing in). There are still a number of areas untouched.

West End Buttress

This marks the western limits of the climbing area, approx. 500m W of the tower (about 6 – 8 minutes walk).

Approach
Take the rough cart-track on the R of the entrance to the tower field, ignoring a turn to the R. Just before the track ends in a field leave it at a R-hand bend and follow the narrow path parallel to the coast, passing some tottering pillars ("crumble corner") at the back of a cove. The path deteriorates as it crosses a rough hollow but improves as it rises again. After about another 150m, at the path’s highest point, leave it and go down sharp L towards a small headland containing a large cave. At half to low-tide scramble down over the cave and traverse back E (R facing in) to the foot of the climbs. At full-tide abseil down the corner of Crack of Doon.

1  The Oldest Winger  10m  S
G. Moss, S. O’Hanlon, F. Kenny 16/08/03
Start 4m W (left) of the cave exit, directly below a small overhang with good undercuts. Climb to the overhang and, using a thin quartz vein above, move L to a flake then back R above the overhang. Move up to a belay.

2  C.F.T.  15m  Diff
S. O’Hanlon, F. Kenny, G. Moss 16/08/03
Traverses the cave from E. to W. An atmospheric outing on a windy day. Start at the mouth of the cave. Chimney up and out through the back of the cave. Half-to-low tide.

Cave Wall Cracks
The following four climbs take the cracks in the wall above R of the cave entrance and L of the main face.

3  Exit Left  14m  HS 4b
G. Moss, P. Britton 16/08/03
An abortive attempt to climb the twin parallel cracks immediately R of the L edge. Climb to a small foothold below the final steepening. Move out L and up to finish. A direct finish would be more fitting, though harder.

4  Fran the Man  15m MS
F. Kenny, S. O’Hanlon 16/08/03
The deep cracks to the R of above.

5  Dungarvan  14m  MS
D. Broderick, S. O’Hanlon, F. Kenny 16/08/03
The cracks just R of Fran.

6  Red Crack  15m  VD
Colm Ennis, John Kinsella, 16/08/03
The crack just L of the corner.

7  Crack of Doon  16m  VD
G. Moss, P. Britton 16/08/03
The crack in the corner between cave wall and main wall.

8  Up and Doon  17m  HVS 5a
G. Moss, L. Convery 26/5/04
The thin crack just R of Crack of Doon and L of the inverted v-notch gives fingery, well-protected climbing. Low in the grade.

9  No Toll  17m  VS 4c
C. Ennis, J. Kinsella 16/08/03
Start about 3m R of Crack of Doon. An inverted v-notch leads to a vertical crack, which is gained by bridging moves. Sustained climbing.

10  Iced Log  20m  HVS 5a
P. Britton, D. Broderick 16/08/03
The thin finger crack at a rightward facing corner that runs up the middle of the wall.

11  Gold n Topsy  22m  HS
P. Britton, G. Moss 16/08/03
Start 3m L of the R end of the wall. Climb the crack then traverse rightwards and climb the face near the outside corner. Finish up the top 3m vertical crack.

12  Flight Control  20m  HVS 5a
P. Britton, D. Broderick 16/08/03
Start just right of and around from the main wall, at a rock runway left of the narrow cave. Climb a 4m rightward-trending sharp crack up the face of a white pillar. Move left above the crack then back right to mantelshelf the top of the pillar. Climb more easily from here to the top, finding protection in the exit crack of Gold n Topsy.

13  Prophet of Doon  35m  VS 4c
G.Moss, L.Convery 27/3/04
Varied climbing, with a well-protected crux. Start about 10m R of Flight Control and the narrow cave, on a good ledge above the high-water mark, and directly below a 3m flake that forms a R-facing crack near the top of the wall. Climb easily to the crack and up this to the top of the flake. Make a difficult mantelshelf onto the horizontal crack above (crux). A delicate step up onto the slab is followed by a short, delicate traverse R to gain a thin crack. Follow this (small wires), to the top.

Mid-week Wall

About 25m E of Flight Control there is a grey bulging wall, with some white quartzite streaks and 3 parallel vertical cracks near its R-hand end.

Approach
As for West-end Buttress as far as the rough hollow. Continue along the path for a short distance. Scramble down gentle slabs and ledges just W of 3-Tier Slab and traverse around W to the foot of the wall. It is also possible, at low tide, to approach this area from West-end Buttress, by hopping across the channel at the mouth of the narrow cave.

14  Lifted Her Petticoat  25m  HS
L. Convery. G. Moss 23/9/03
Start 20m R of Narrow Cave and 5m L of the L-hand end of Mid-week Wall, below a series of flakes leading up L into an overhanging, R-facing corner. Climb easily to the corner, move up, then, (this is the easy and slow bit) make a delicate rising traverse up R using undercuts. Belay well back.

15  Doonesbury  20m  HS
G. Moss, L. Convery 23/9/03
Start near the left end of the grey bulging wall, below a short corner/crack at about 3m up. A couple of thin moves lead to a good hold and a mantelshelf below the corner. Climb the corner and move up slightly L to a second, shallow corner with a thin crack. Up this to finish.

16  People Before Prophet  HVS 5a
G. Moss, L. Convery 28/8/04
Hand-jamming on perfect rock; friends useful. Start about 5m R of Doonesbury, below the widest of the cracks. Climb the crack.

3-Tier Slab

About 30m E (R) of Mid-week Wall, and just W of Twin Coves, there is a steep wall capped by three bands of curved slabs.

Approach
As for West-end Buttress. Follow the path past Crumble Corner and the hollow and go down L until above the slabs. It is possible to scramble down on either side of the slabs.

17  Laid-back  MS
L. Convery, G. Moss 28/8/04
Start in a gully, about 5m L of 3-Tier Slab, below some rightward-pointing flakes. Climb up to and over the flakes and into the R-facing corner. Climb the corner crack.

18  Sinister Crack  18m  D
L. Convery, G. Moss 23/9/03
Climb the crack running up the L side of the slab.

19  Never on a Sunday  18m  VS 5a
G. Moss, L. Convery 23/9/03
Climb the thin central crack.

20  Redshanks  15m  D
L. Convery, G. Moss 25/10/03
Climb the curving cracks on the L-facing wall.

21  Choughed  15m  MS
G. Moss, L. Convery 23/9/03
Immediately R of 3-Tier Slab is a steep slab capped by a small triangular shaped wall. Start on a ledge at high-water mark below the centre of the slab. Climb on small holds to a good ledge. Continue up the face on generous holds.

22  A Christian Brother?  12m  D
L. Convery, G. Moss 23/9/03
Start 2m R of Choughed. Move R and climb diagonally R to the top.

Sunday Slab

At the tip of the promontory dividing the Twin Coves.

Approach
As for West-end Buttress. Shortly after passing the tottering pillars ("Crumble Corner") go down the headland between the two coves to the top of a fine little slab above the sea. This is Sunday Slab. The slab has a large block at its base and a crack running up its centre.

The first route is about 10m to the W (L facing in) of this slab and takes a crackline up the centre of an orange slab which is undercut at the base.

23  On Yer Bike  14m  MS
S. O’Hanlon, F. Kenny, G. Moss 17/08/03
Start at the high-water mark below the crack. Move up and climb the crack which is hard to start.

24  Black Ramp Crack  13m  HS 4a
F. Kenny, S. O’Hanlon, G. Moss 17/08/03
Start at the block at the foot of Sunday Slab. Climb to the shoulder near the bottom of the L edge of the slab and step around and down L to gain the narrow black ramp. Climb this, using the crack above and the edge of the slab, to where the ramp narrows. Move around L then pull up to gain the top of the slab.

The following routes climb Sunday Slab.

25  Port  10m  VD
G. Moss, S. O’Hanlon, F. Kenny 17/08/03
The L edge.

26  Rest Day  VD
G. Moss, L. Convery 27/8/04
A delicate eliminate line. Start just R of Port. Climb straight up to gain the crack 1m in from the edge.

27  Mid-Ships  10m  D
G. Moss, S. O’Hanlon, F. Kenny 17/08/03
The fine centre crack.

28  Laudate  MS
L. Convery, G. Moss 27/8/04
A delicate eliminate line. Start 1m R of the central crack (Midships). Climb up to gain the crack 1m R of Midships and follow it to the top.

29  Starboard  10m  D
F. Kenny, S. O’Hanlon, G. Moss 17/08/03
The thin crack just inside the R edge.

Sea-stack Cove

The cove to the E of Twin Coves, easily identifiable by the sea-stack.

Approach
From a grassy hollow above the back of the cove scramble down carefully W (R facing out), over grass initially, to reach easy slabs and, finally, good ledges above the high water mark. Move back E on these until below a yellow corner with a continuous crack up the centre. This is the line of Triple Crown.

30  Allez France!  13m  VD
G. Moss, L. Convery 28/3/04
Start beneath the corner crack. Climb diagonally L up a slab to the foot of a ramp sloping up R. Climb the ramp and exit L via a crack. Block belay 3m back.

31  Triple Crown  13m  MS
L. Convery, G. Moss 28/3/04
Start below the crack, which is climbed to the top. Belay as for Le Cocq.

32  Grand Slam  14m  S
G. Moss, L. Convery 28/3/04
Start as for Triple Crown. Climb R-wards over a grey step and move up steeply over a second step. Move back L to finish just R of the top of Triple Crown.

33  Flat-topped Aiguille  15m  VD
L. Convery, G. Moss 27/3/04
This route follows the arête on the landward side of the sea-stack. Approach (low tide only) as far as the base of Triple Crown, then descend ledges and cross to the boulders at the foot of the arête. Gain the arête via a short chimney and follow it to the top. Descend by reversing the route.

Cylinder Slab Area

This area lies a little W of the Tower.

Approach
From the Tower follow the field boundary running down towards the sea, to where it ends at the top of a cove (Boundary Cove). Traverse W passing above another cove (Boulder Cove) and go down to where an obvious cylindrical band of rock caps a short, wide and steep slab. This is Cylinder Slab. No climbs here as yet.

Below Cylinder Slab there are four slabs. These are described from W to E, (L to R facing in).

Easy Slab
Below the W end of Cylinder Slab. An easy scramble down this short slab provides access to a ledge system (uncovered for fours hours either side of low tide) leading to the following two slabs.

Cleft Slab
The next slab to the R. (Easily identified by the half-metre-wide cleft splitting the slab from top to bottom).

34  Serrated Flakes  VD
L. Convery, G. Moss 15/6/03
Climbs the R facing corner to the L of the cleft, using a series of small flakes and the crack.

35  Cleft Right  MS
G. Moss, L. Convery 15/6/03
Climbs the R edge of the cleft. Poor protection.

Photo by Gerry Moss

36  W.M.D.  VS 4b
G. Moss, L. Convery 15/6/03
Start below two thin parallel cracks near the R edge of the slab. Climb the R-hand crack then the L crack to where it ends. Delicate moves R gain the edge which is followed to a break. Climb the final section on small holds. Sparse protection.

Starfish Slab
The next slab to the R.

37  Eureka  D
L. Convery, G. Moss 15/6/03
Climb the R facing corner on the L edge of the slab.

38  Star Wars  HS 4a
G. Moss, L. Convery 26/10/03
Start 2m R of the corner. Climb diagonally R to gain the R edge of the slab. Follow this over a slight bulge to a break and runner. Continue up the edge to finish.

Narrow Slab
The next slab to the R. Access is by abseil.

39  Thanks, Dave  D
L. Convery, G. Moss 15/6/03
The R facing corner on the L edge of the slab.

Tower Slab W.

Approach
Follow the field boundary below the Tower to where it ends above a large cove (Boundary Cove). Tower Slab W. is the slab immediately E of the cove (L facing out). Abseil down the centre of the slab to a ledge with a short wall behind it (about 23m). The following four routes all start from this ledge.

40  Snap Apple  30m  S
G. Moss, L. Convery 26/10/03
Climb diagonally L to gain a short black corner on the L edge of the slab. From the top of the corner follow the edge over a small overhang to a stance. Step down L to gain the foot of a narrow subsidiary slab and climb this near it’s L edge to a crack on the R. Pull over a block to finish.

41  Agag  25m  MS
L. Convery, G. Moss 26/10/03
Takes the thin crack about 5m R of the wide crack splitting the slab. Follow the crack to where it fades below a small overlap. Step up L to reach an edge (crux) and continue directly to the top.

42  Pinkie  25m HS
P. Britton, L. Convery, G. Moss 25/10/03
Start 2m in from the R edge below a thin crack. Follow the crack delicately to the overlap. Surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top.

43  Trick or Treat  25m VD
G. Moss, L. Convery, P. Britton 25/10/03
Start as for Pinkie. Climb diagonally R to the edge and follow this to the top. Poor protection.

The foot of the next route, which is on a lower, subsidiary slab, is reached by scrambling on down from the ledge at the foot of the main slab.

44  White Horses  10m  D
L. Convery, G. Moss 25/10/03
Climb the centre crack. Scramble off R.

Tower Slab E.

Approach
From the top of Tower Slab W move E (L facing out), passing the head of a narrow inlet, and scramble down over easy slabs, moving back W to the base of the long slab bordering the inlet.

45  Assume the position  25m  S
G. Moss, L. Convery 24/9/03
Start from a ledge at the bottom of the slab (half to low tide, only). Climb L to gain the L edge and follow this, in an airy position, to where the inlet ends. Continue up the wide crack.

46  Cúinne Murchadh  25m  S
L. Convery, G. Moss 24/9/03
Start as for above. Climb the L facing corner to where the crack widens and the angle eases, at about 18m. Move up and R through a break in the wall on the R and climb the slab and corner to the top.

The following climbs are to the E (R facing in) of Tower Slabs; a more detailed description of their whereabouts will be given later.

47  At Swim Two Birds  25m  HS
G. Moss, L. Convery 14/6/03
Climb a crack on the R facing sidewall above a slab.

48  Ó Bhun go Barr  35m  M
L. Convery, G. Moss 14/6/03
The long crackline up the centre of the wide slab.

49  Black Wall Chimney  15m  S
G. Moss, L. Convery 14/6/03
Climb the chimney at the R hand end of Black Wall.

50  Slab & Overhang  15m  VD
G. Moss, L. Convery 14/6/03
To the R of Black Wall. Climb a slab to the foot of a short overhang on the R. Over this on good holds.

Far from the Madding Crowd

The Artful Dodgers

Knockadoon

Head Hunting

Knockadoon – The story so far

Knockadoon Head

West End Buttress

Mid-week Wall

3-Tier Slab

Sunday Slab

Sea-stack Cove

Cylinder Slab Area

Tower Slab W.

Tower Slab E.