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  • Peaky Blinders – The Peak District Meet 2018

    Peaky Blinders – The Peak District Meet 2018

    The Peak District has some breath-taking countryside as well as some of the best climbing in Europe. Among its legendary climbing venues are Stanage Edge, near Sheffield and the Roaches, in Staffordshire.

    A respectably-sized group of IMC members visited this amazing climbing Mecca during the May Bank Holiday weekend.  The weather conditions were perfect to experience its extraordinary gritstone (and some limestone).

    The club based itself  at the southern end of the Peak District in the village of Two Dales just north of Matlock. It was a perfect place to introduce the club to Peak District quality grit stone climbing

    So What constitutes a good, nay the best, meet ever?
    Sunshine, good company, quality cooking, excellent affordable accommodation, proper beer, pub less than 50 meters from the house, best rock type in the world, quality three-star routes from legends like Joe Brown and some Period romantic fiction.
    We had all of these at the IMC Peak District meet 2018…. But don’t take my word for it. This is how those who were there recalled the experience.

     

    Artem Babichenko leading on Goliath’s Groove with Sarah belaying.

    Eleanor
    The peak district what an incredible trip it’s hard to pick a highlight as it was all so entertaining. The weather, company, food (well done to the chefs), the cute hut in the picturesque village of the two dales but above all else the spectacular climbing at Stanage. At a push the Sunday wins the prize as the climbing at inverted V/Black slab area was full of 3star climbs and the craic was mighty as everyone feasted on all it had to offer.

     

    photo5
    Con , Elanor, Petra , James, Fiona,Cillian, Fiona, Jon, Paulina and Jason enjoying the Peak District at peak weather conditions

     

    Jaanika
    First climbing trip to the UK and I was amazed by the quality and quantity of climbing. Spent a day in Black Rocks and a day in Stanage and only managed to dip my toe. I could easily have spent a week in these locations and cannot wait to go back. Climbing on Gritstone was an interesting experience and it pushed my limits of technique and stamina.
    Top memory would be the seeing the start of Stanage, but not being able to see the end. I could not believe how much climbing is on this mile-long crag. But I must admit that on our way to Stanage, passing Chatsworth House, nobody in the car could hold their excitement of seeing Mr. Darcy’s (from Pride and Prejudice) house.
    As always travelling with IMC is great fun. Cooking together and having the last meal of the day together and then chatting and recalling experiences was a nice end to each day.

     

    photo6
    Daniel on another Mega classic, Tody’s Wall at Froggatt

     

    James
    Fantastic week-end, made all the better by the incredible weather and superb company.  

I’d forgotten just how hard grit is when you are not used to it; thank God for the two Fionas Sunday.  Also, thanks to Con for leading that impossibly difficult HS 4b on Black rocks, for which I needed serious aid to get up, and Jon didn’t find trivial.

Next Easter is already in the diary.
    p.s. You might want to mention that the cottage was near and drive to Stanage Edge passed through the Chatsworth estate, which was the model for Pemberly, Mr Darcy’s estate in Jane Austin’s Pride and Prejudice.

     

    artem2
    Jason McNulty leading with Paulina Svensk belaying Goliath Grove

     

    Sara
    The Peak District was such a great weekend! I thought it was brilliant to be climbing with different people and be often together in the same area, in such a picaresque landscape and summery weather. The crags were impressive – particularly Stanage – and at the same time the approach was very convenient – perfect combination! Different style of climbing to what I’m used to, interesting stuff. Few of us also went for a nice cycle along the High Peak Trail on the last day, because I thought it was worth to explore the area a bit more and it was really worth it. Final revelation: I discovered the chef in me! Lol

     

    photo8
    At Black Rocks, Jon Smith leading with Con Farren belaying and on right  Daniel Kirk leading with Jaanika Linde belaying.

     

    The Two Fionas

    The Fiona’s highlight of the holiday was one particular après-climb clinic. During this we learnt that one could go up grade with the purchase of new shoes. The first available pairs were bought. we are back at VDiff.

     

    photo11

     

     

  • Top of the Lakes – The Lake District Meet

    Top of the Lakes – The Lake District Meet

    by David Craig

    The annual meet to the Lakes has long been one of the highlights of the club’s calendar of meets, especially since the date was moved to the June weekend. I think every year since, we have been rewarded with actual sunshine. In 2017 we all stayed at the MAM hut in Coniston. I say ‘hut’ but it is closer to 5-star accommodation with hot running water, central heating and a drying room in case your gansey gets damp.

    Sure, why would you go climbing at all if you can stay in that kind of luxury? Síle and myself, of course, forswore such comforts and slept in the back of our van. Mind you we cooked, ate and washed in the hut, just to be sociable though!

    Before all that mind, we had set off on the Friday morning via the Dublin to Holyhead ferry. This is my favourite way to get to British crags as it drops you in Anglesea, only a stones throw from one of my favourite places to climb, Gogarth. After leaving the ferry we nipped up toward South Stack and the easily accessible crag of Castle Helen. This crag is situated directly below the tea shop at south stack and is very reliable if the weather is not looking great. We abseiled in and ticked off the Atlantis/True moments/Freebird combination before driving on up to the Lakes.

    People arrived at the hut at all hours through Friday night and we were all a bit slow getting moving on the Saturday morning, a sure sign Gerry hadn’t made this trip. However, once movement was finally achieved the resulting momentum carried most of us to Borrowdale. This is one of the more famous Lakes venues, with many roadside crags. People scattered out along Shepard’s crag, ticking off the local classics. Little Chamonix and Donkey’s Ears proved popular and attracted several parties. It being Saturday, it seemed like every climber in Britain had had the same idea, but that’s the problem with roadside venues! The routes are a bit polished. As I sit writing this I’m contemplating the idea that this makes you focus (more) on technique, but in truth when climbing I’d prefer a bit more friction. Still a good day was had by all.

    On the Sunday most people headed to Langdale. In typical IMC fashion everyone had their own idea about where to climb and once again we all spread ourselves across the many crags in the valley.

    Some went for single-pitch crags down in the valley, conveniently placed near the pub (thought I’m sure that was just a coincidence). Some headed for Whyte Gill, another great venue if the weather’s looking a bit dodgy with some excellent short multipitch climbs at reasonable grades.

    Crescent-Slabs
    Sile and Doug chatting on one of the Crescent Slabs belays.

    Síle, Doug and I went up to Pavey Ark to do some longer routes. Doug and I set up shop at the start of our route while Síle went for a dip in Stickle Tarn. We had a great day climbing Crescent Slabs (S), then scrambling down Jacks Rake and then climbing Stoat’s crack (VS). This makes a good long route of pleasant climbing at a very amenable grade. We even had the crag to ourselves, probably due to the longer walk in.

    Stoats-Crack
    Doug and Sile coming up the first pitch of Stoat’s Crack.

    The Monday was a washout and Sile and I had to get back for the ferry in Holyhead, so we decided to drive back down towards Anglesea. We parked up at South Stack and waited for the rain to clear. The next morning a heavy mist still hung over Holyhead mountain and the main cliff at Gogarth so we headed down the road to Roscolyn. This area is a fantastic sun trap, with good steep climbing and a great alternative when the crags at Gogarth are not in condition.  I started off with a nice little E1 called little queenie, then Sile upped the ante and climbed The Sun (E3) topping off an excellent weekend.

    True-Moments
    The author heading out on the traverse pitch of True Moments (E2 5b).

    The time between the meet and writing this has let a lot of the details escape me, so I don’t have specifics of who climbed what and where. However, it was a brilliant few days with a good-humoured group of messers, meandering through the Lakes. If it sounds like fun to you, this year’s meet is just around the corner.

     

    *Gerry has organised the Hut in Coniston again from the 1st to the 4th of June, so book your place now!

  • Lake District Log 2013

    Lake District Log 2013

    (by Gerry Moss – June 2013)
    2013 Lake District Meet – Trip Report

    (more…)

  • Lake District report

    (by Gerry Moss, June 2012)
    The annual Lakes meet, with the usual sunshine.


    Twenty-one members travelled to the Lake District for our June Bank Holiday weekend meet. In recent years this trip has been graced by fine weather and this year continued in the same pattern. Two of the days were warm and sunny, the other two cool and breezy – but all four were dry.

    The opportunities for climbing afforded by this fine spell were seized upon with enthusiasm by one and all. I am happy to report that everyone, bar none, got to do some leading on the fabulous multi-pitch routes that the Lake District has to offer climbers of every standard. During these four days, those of our members new to multi-pitch climbing learned more about this aspect of our craft, simply by up-and-doing, than could ever be gleaned from any course. So much so, that they were all happily placing and retrieving gear, belaying, setting up good anchors and, best of all, enthusiastically leading, by the close of the weekend. All of which helps augment the club’s band of active climbing members while, at the same time, creating excellent ambassadors for the IMC.

    We visited numerous crags, making the most of the wide variety on offer. High up in the hills we sampled the delights of Gimmer, Pavey Ark, Dow, The Napes and Combe Ghyll and, when the winds blew, we settled for the more sheltered climbing to be found on valley crags such as Wallowbarrow, Castle Rock, Sheperd’s Crag and Langdale’s Raven Crag.

    As usual, we were based in the comfortable, well-located, Dunmail Raise Hut, and there is no doubt having such a fine base greatly enabled our activities. Sadly, it looks like this may have been our last visit to this fine hut, as the Achille Ratti club has decided to put it up for sale.

    An army marches on its stomach and, at the end of each day, climbers need to replenish energy supplies. During the course of the weekend, besides indulging in some home cooking, members visited nearly as many eating houses, as crags. They now, between them, have a wide fund of knowledge on the merits, or otherwise, of many establishments in the area, ranging from the traditional greasy spoon to the more exotic and pretentious.

    Needless to say, it was never a case of all work and no play, but there are others, better positioned than me, to report on the goings-on both on and off the crags. Suffice to say there were rumours of struggles with hexes, battles of the sexes, as well as some cheeky role-swapping between learners and tutors.

  • Lakes Log – 3 in a Row

    (by Gerry Moss, June 2010)
    June long weekend climbing in the Lake District, with the usual fine weather.


    That we experienced fine weather yet again on our third June meet to the Lake District was no accident. Never the type to take things for granted, and keen to cover all the options, we held a short prayer meeting at the foot of the crag each morning: a few moments quiet contemplation: a reading from the Good Book, and the rounding off of proceedings with a blessing from our esteemed president and we were on our way.

    We had a lot of firsts on this meet. First time to the Lakes for John and Barry; First 5c lead for Padraic; first leads at Castle Rock for Mags and James; first leads of multi-pitch routes, under the watchful eyes of Alastair and Nick, for newcomers Nicole and Ian.

    I firmly believe that this is the way to go – learning to lead should be an integral part of learning to climb – the longer it is put off the more intimidating it appears to be – and no better place to make the break-through than on the big, but user-friendly crags of the Lake District and Snowdonia.

    We were up by 6.30 each morning, and away by 8, making the most of our days. We climbed on many different crags: White Ghyll; Troutdale Pinnacle; Grey Crag; Scout Crag and Shepherd’s Crag were all in the mix.

    At Castle Rock, Joe was happily leading on pitches that he had great difficulty seconding just twelve months ago. When the rain finally came on our last day, there were few murmurs of complaint for, in truth, at that stage we were a spent force, happy to wrap up proceedings and head for home.

    We had a total of seventeen on the meet – quite a good turnout given that there is a recession on. It was a good mix of old and young, men and women, and we dined in a convivial atmosphere at the end of each day.

    While it always pleasant to have the ladies along, I do sometimes wish that they would take the climbing a bit more seriously. I was pleased when they told me they were going to pay a quick visit to the gear shops in Keswick, but the outcome was not quite what I had expected.

    We were a good-humoured bunch, with plenty of banter, though, as usual, some of Joe’s jokes were a bit hard to bear.

    Perhaps the only fly in the ointment was our Barry. Normally an affable, good-humoured chap, he does have this irritating habit of getting up one’s nose – a trait that has caused some red faces – and I shouldn’t be at all surprised if someone scalps him one of these days.

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