(by Gerry Moss, September 2011)
A chip off the old block takes a trip to the old rock.

Celia is one of only a handful of three-star VS routes at Glendalough. It was put up, in 1963, by a team that included the late Eddie Gaffney. As a token of his affection for the woman who was to become his wife and the mother of his children, Eddie named the route Celia. It was then, and still is, a demanding test piece for the grade. Fully deserving of its three stars, it provides steep, in-your-face climbing and comes complete with good jugs and gear placements.

Eddie was a great all-rounder – hillwalker, climber and mountaineer. Sadly, he died as a result of a fall while descending Monte Disgrazia, in the Bregaglia, after a solo ascent, in August 1996.

Fast forward to the summer of 2011, and Eddie and Celia’s daughter, Niamh, herself the mother of two grown-up children, decides to take up rock climbing. Her first outing with the IMC was on last Saturday’s meet to Ireland’s Eye. As regards climbing, it would be true to say that Niamh is a good example of the apple not falling far from the tree: she took to the rock with great determination, positive attitude and a fast improving technique. During the course of the day she expressed an interest, at some future date, in climbing the route bearing her father’s stamp and her mother’s name. A sort of sentimental journey.

Today, we had planned to go to Barnbawn, to allow Niamh do some easy leading and get some practise at gear placements. But Barnbawn is really a winter venue, best left for those days when it is too cold to climb anywhere else. Today was too good a day for that, so when I suggested Glendalough, and mentioned Celia in passing, she didn’t have to think twice about it.

The crag is quite wet at the moment, after a week of heavy rain on the hills, but the rock was dry where it mattered. Although a fine day, the crag was unusually quiet, with just two other pairs on the rock.

Although the route looks improbably steep, Niamh coped admirably, and was delighted to discover that there are good handholds all the way up. Then, after a sos beag, we made our way over to Expectancy Slab, for her first abseil in earnest.

Then down to basecamp for a well-earned cup of tea. A good outing this, on her visit to the Glendalough crag, and a fitting way, surely, to follow the age-old exhortation to Honour Thy Father and Mother.

We will watch her progress with interest.

(by Ambrose Flynn, June 2011)
A weekend climbing the classics of Glendalough.

Two weeks ago the long-term weather forecast for Éire was sunny … sunny … sunny. Therefore a weekend trip to Glendo was the only sensible option. But alas, the Atlantic Ocean had other plans in store and closer to the date the weather ‘forecast’ looked decidedly more "Irish"!

Being stubborn folk we decided regardless to frequent the IMC Hut for two days and see what the weather gods had in store for us.

Saturday was a beautiful 20+C with just enough breeze to confine the evil midges to their lairs! The wonderful Quartz Gully was our first port of call. I had the pleasure of climbing Quartz Gully last year but this was Barry’s first attempt and he dispatched the crux second pitch with style. The 60-metre abseil from the Expectancy slab to basecamp was equally enjoyable.

We then switched our attention to Expectancy as Emily joined us for shenanigans … climbing Expectancy, Georgia, Adam’s Rib and Lassitude with the occasional sun-worshiping taking place. Emily left us and we decided to "take a look" at Cracks on the Garden of Eden.

The first pitch of CotGoE (nice eh?) provided a difficult layback start that led to a nice spacious ledge that was unfortunately the home to every midge in Wicklow … that apparently like to attack a belayer’s eyeball with enthusiasm and dedication. Barry took the second pitch and dispatched it in style urging me, on topping out, to take my time and enjoy the pitch … fantastic off-width crack climbing. I started the third crux pitch with light fading feeling strong and confident but on reaching the steep wonderful crux my hands started to sweat and as I reached round for the sanctuary of my chalk bag it decided to plummet to the second belay station (if found a return would be appreciated) thus developing the ebbing away of my "strength and confidence". I decided to down-climb and Barry took lead but due to failing light and our head-torches being in our rucksacks at Expectancy he moved left of the crux and so it was the quickest coiling of ropes and abseil ensued as we reached our rucksacks as we we’re enveloped in darkness. An exhilarating and informative experience no doubt!! But alas, the burden of walking back to the IMC Hut was lessened by the arrival of our saviour, Vincent. And so it was we awoke on Sunday with a slightly sore head and empty stomachs but still looking forward to another day’s climbing and the arrival of Áine.

We walked into Glendo with the spectre of rain a real possibility, however sometimes blind optimism pays dividends.

Barry and I decided to see what all the fuss was about and headed for Prelude Nightmare while Vincent and Áine were braver and hit Sarcophagus.

I took the first pitch of P.N. and really enjoyed the ramp and the delicate climbing on the slab. Barry led the second pitch with ease and as the exposure increased his enjoyment increased. The third pitch was fantastic starting with the steep right-angled corner and an airy ascent up and traverse onto Nightmare Ledge … it didn’t disappoint … what a fantastic belay ledge.

Barry took the final crux pitch and in no time was calling "safe!" I deconstructed the belay and followed up onto the "sensational swing" rightwards and towards the enjoyment of exposed and atmospheric Glendo climbing … what a pitch and situation. Cue the applause for Mister Kenny, Ohrtmann and Winder … fantastic climbing.

Word had reached us at this stage of events that the rest of Éire was under water but Glendo saw only the occasional mist and it was from this mist we heard the familiar French voice of Vincent coming from the "small belay ledge" after the crux third pitch.

He proceeded to inform us that the third pitch was "interesting" as he belayed Áine. I believe my chalk bag wasn’t the only thing left in Glendo that weekend as some of Vincent’s skin may be found on a quartz handhold … the return of which is not necessary. I digress!

Being ravenous we decided to call it a day and our chef mister Murphy assisted by his French partner in crime cooked up a storm … only to be surpassed by Áine as she whipped out the Romantica … bloated we retired to the "minute movement devices" known as the air mattresses.

Monday began with the arrival of Emily and Jo, the departure of Vincent and the arrival of a beautiful day with the all-important midge-slaying wind present!

Myself and Emily headed for Cracks on the Garden of Eden for a rematch with the third pitch, while Barry and Jo hit Quartz Gully for Jo’s first Glendo multipitch adventure.

Once again I was amazed with the quality of the climbing on CotGoE as I led pitches one and two with the spectre of the third pitch getting closer and closer … and it didn’t disappoint … what a fantastic steep pitch. This time the crux went first time and with comfort which was displayed verbally with hoots and howls. Meanwhile, Emily was climbing and enjoying each pitch as this was her reintroduction to multipitch climbing after several years’ multipitch absence.

We descended to Expectancy to meet Barry and Jo who dispatched Quartz Gully with style and vigour.

Jo then led Expectancy comfortably and Emily, who led her first HS route the day before, decided to lead Lassitude (VS) with little resistance. With all troops content and at peace we decided to call it a day.

The weekend provided many challenges and experiences each of which contributed to an overwhelming sense of peacefulness and fulfilment. But, like all questions answered "I wonder what Prelude Nightmare is like?", another takes its place, "I wonder what Sarcophagus is like?" And so the journey continues.

To be continued …

(by John Duignan, April 2011)
A great day’s climbing in Wicklow.

The approach to the Main Face is carpeted with alpine flowers – dog violet and saxifrage are easy to name; others I can’t recognise. A lizard scampers underfoot; a family of goats with a magnificent elder puck goat pass above us. The forecast for bad weather must be happening in a different part of Wicklow; the crag never looked better.

Hugh (Reynolds) hums as he gears up for his first day outdoor climbing this year. Soon he is cruising Scimitar Crack – an onsight HVS lead, laybacking and bridging well.

Scimitar Crack – Hugh laybacking the crux

Cracks on the Garden of Eden is next. Hugh chooses the bouldering moves of the HVS variant. Inspired, I find the layback moves on the pitch above fantastic – VS climbing at its Glendalough best.

Cracks on the Garden of Eden – upper pitch

A sunsoaked lunch at the ledge below the Prelude ramp allows us watch a young lass making her first ascent of Prelude-Nightmare. I plead with her to shed the massive unneeded seagull-basher cam – she laughs back that it is a lucky piece. Shut up and admire her catlike grace.

A day like this calls for something special. I have been repulsed by the Upper Cliffs too often – the weather wrong; conditions poor; too wet underfoot. Hey, I have a whole bag full of excuses. Truth is, they scare me as much as they fascinate me. One anonymous climber (hello Terry!) recalls the "trumpets of angels calling" while climbing Cornish Rhapsody. Another, Helen, recalls getting her knee stuck in Cuchulainn Groove.

Despite the heat, when we scramble up, Cuchullain Groove, true to its reputation, is wet along its length and has a small pool at its bottom.

We choose Freebird, a HVS climb I often admire from the valley below. The moves on the first pitch are delicate and in places unlikely; Hugh thoughtfully works the pitch. Before long he is grinning down from a hanging belay which makes the best of the poor anchors available.

Hugh cruises the first pitch of Freebird

I wonder why the second pitch looks so steep when it appears so laid back from below? The climb is a stunning Yosemite-like splitter crack; it is highly vegetated after the Winter. I garden as I go but recall Gerry Moss’s advice to bring an ice axe for this; my puny nut key is not up to the job. My mood swings widly from joy to fear when the crack is very overgrown. The upper third holds are juggy and the pressure is off.

Freebird second pitch

The guidebook suggests abseiling from tat at the top of the second pitch. Would trad climbers object to bolts and chain at the top of this pitch? Surely it would be safer and wouldn’t take from the joy of the climb. I add a new sling to the tat above.

Freebird on the Upper Cliffs proved well worth the visit; don’t forget the ice axe to do your bit gardening! I have never seen conditions better there than they are – I hope you enjoy it as much as we did.

(by Gerry Galligan, July 2010)
New-routing in Glendalough.

Last Sunday Shay and myself had a grand day dossing in Glendo. Back at a favourite haunt – Hobnail Buttress. We had studied a crack on the Pine Tree Slab last spring, one to the left of the well-known [i]Pine Tree Crack[/i] route, and we knew it had never been done. So what better way to while an afternoon, post World Cup?

Time seems to stand still at this crag. It has a spellbinding affect on you. When you’re the only party there, which is usually the case, a languorous mood takes over. Movement slows down and flaking the rope becomes an act of soulful meditation. “What time is it, Gerry?” asked Shay. “Time?” I replied, somewhat mystified. “It’s day-time, man.”

Onto the route. But first, the hard bit. Cleaning. It needed a make-over. So it was out with the machete, axe, brush and gear remover. Shay blissfully supervised while I worked. I thought, it’s funny how diligent we get cleaning a route in the middle of the mountains, especially when our homes are being consumed by garden jungles. Ah, but it’s all about priorities, I countered. Important jobs have to be done first. Soon a thin, clean crack emerged from the wilderness.

On with the climb. I geared up and hopped onto the slab. Up to a ramp and shallow recess. A few bits of gear went in and then moved onto the crack. Bridged up the overlap and worked from right to left. Then came to a horizontal crack. Inserted a nut and alien. Then kept going. Next the hard part – up the ramrod-straight crack. Only one problem though – it had bottomed out. I stuck a left toe into a dubious hold, recited a decade of the rosary and shimmied toward PT crack to plug some lifesaving gear. Moving up, our crack as good as disappeared. A hex got thrown into Pine Tree. Then wedging my right foot into PT, while smearing with the left, I clambered on. Next, the crack re-appeared. Almost there now. Then followed the climber’s dilemma: make a high-risk dash for the end-line, or suspend yourself in terror while inserting gear. Quite sensibly I chose the former. Shay was getting his money’s worth below. Steeling myself, I guntered towards the ledge with all the grace of an angry Sumo wrestler. Thankfully I was home. OK it wasn’t aesthetic, and on the style-scale I’d rate my performance 6 out of 10. But hey, it was a first ascent. A new variation start to Pine Tree Crack, and a meaty one at that. I reckon of a grade VS 4c.

Hobnail it must be said is a great place for a doss. There are enough interesting routes there to keep anyone amused, and the situation overlooking the lake and miners mess is great. It also offers an appealing, lazy walk-in. And unlike the main crag further up the valley it doesn’t make you feel like you’re climbing on the set of Big Brother. Because of this I’d recommend it to anyone new to climbing or, like us, if you just want to doss. “Now Shay, pass us the spliff. Second ascent, anyone?”