First event for the 2020 Calendar
SPA(RCI) Skills Refresh and MPA Preparation, Night hike, Food and Talk?
Skills Sat Feb 29, 2020 9.30am – 5pm IMC Hut Training wall if wet and cold Acorn Buttress if dry
Walk: The usual Spink traverse of Glendo, starting and leaving from Hut (headtorch required)
Evening Food: Goulash, made to a recipe “similar” to what a Hungarian would call authentic
Talk: Jon’s early years of climbing 1989-1995), introducing you to crags for the up and coming Yorkshire climbing meet. (AKA best meet ever)
Greetings:
Over the Last few years we ran a skills refresher, usually in October, in Dalkey, never compulsory. A just if you want kind of meet.
This year I have a special impetus to review and refresh as I am being dragged into March with a MPA assessment with another IMC member (he is shy)
I have booked the IMC hut with the intention to:-
Cover a morning session for this, reviewing, demonstrating and practicing what I would call core competencies that form of a typical day out on the crag. Those that are documented in the IMC training syllabus .
(We can also use the hut screen to show best practice videos)
Building a belay for an abseil (3 points), abseil safely down to route using a prusik
Interpreting the guidebook description of a given (easy)route. Lead the route placing leader protection. Build an intermediate belay 2 or 3 anchors (be able to explain the quality of the anchors), and belay partner up to the belay safely.
It will be similar to the learn-to-lead sessions….
Second part of the day we will cover the rescue skills covered at the formal SPA and MPA Level. These are not just for those that have been through formal SPA, all are welcome. Will supply tea/coffee and sausage sandwiches during the day
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Second Climbs Past His Runner (single rope)
Equip: 2 HMS
Lock of Belay, take rope closest to the Anchor, feed loop down with a HMS crab, have 2nd attach to belay loop, belay back down with 2nd HMS on italian Hitch, until tight again on lead rope.
Assisted Hoist
Equip: Prusik + HMS
Lock of Belay, Fix Prusik to live rope (infront of belay device), take dead rope closest to belay, feed loop down with a HMS crab, have 2nd attach to belay loop. Unlock belay and take up slack; Victim pulls on rope coming from belayer,leader pulls on rope coming from victim
Unassisted Hoist
Equip: 2 Prusiks + HMS
Lock of Belay, Fix 1st Prusik live rope before belay, Fix 2nd Prusik live rope further down with attached crab, dead rope attach to 2nd Prusik, pull and keep moving 2nd Prusik down the rope (as far possible)
Escaping the System (from belay built out of reach rope (no powerpoint))
Equip: Prusik , 2 Slings , 4 HMS
Lock of Belay, fix Prusik to live rope to anchors with sling (Klemheist rather than French) using 2 HMS, sling has an overhand for potential tieoff,powerpoint; release belay to weight prusik; back up prusik withItalianHitch-tied off(releasable knot)or fig8 if going to ab down on tail); personal saftey – girth hitch 2nd sling into belay loop into anchors; untie from system;
Abseil Past a Knot
Equip: Short Sling , 2 Prusiks
Setup sling girth hitched to belay loop attached to Prusik in reach (half or shortened sling) on live rope; lower by releasing top prusik until 60cm before knot,let pusik take ; tie backup knot 2meters (beyond knot) ; release belay device and attach just after/below knot with prusik on leg loop (3rd hand); release top prusik to belay device and 3rd hand
Abseil Y-hang pickup
Equip: Y-Hang-rig is a standard sling overhand near middle , leaving a small loop and belay device connect into , Crab needed for victim
Lowering Past a Knot
See https://people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/high/13SelfRescueSenarios2.pdf
Equip: ShortSling attached to belay, Prisik attached to deadrope, 2 HMS for direct lower off
If interested in attending , let me know or join the WhatsApp group for the meet
https://chat.whatsapp.com/FBomyZQIp5rKVaj3FttKC7