Name: Club Climbing Night
Start: 2026-09-03T18:00:00+01:00
End: 2026-09-03T21:00:00+01:00
Location: Dalkey Quarry

In Search of Ithaca

(by Ambrose Flynn, July 2011)
"Dalkey was bathed in a glorious sunshine that cast leafy silhouettes onto a complex granite canvas … The portents were encouraging!"

On a beautiful Tuesday morning Elsa and I took our time gearing-up as Dalkey was bathed in a glorious sunshine that cast leafy silhouettes onto a complex granite canvas. A light midge-slaying wind added audio to this visual feast accompanied by the remote din of city life. The portents were encouraging!

Our first port of call was Pilaster *** VS 4c. On first inspection it looked more like a ‘highball’ bouldering problem, and that’s exactly what the start is, as there is no protection until one is 4/5 mtrs up and committed! Small crimping and delicate footwork is the order of the day until a crack for pro reveals itself and a more comfortable finish is available. Elsa followed using delicate moves to unlock the tricky start and cruised the rest of the way; a nice start to the morning. "What to do next?", a familiar question no doubt! The choice was easy considering we were beginning our voyage and Helios *** VS 4c, who resides at the White Wall, required thanks for this beautiful morn.

We strolled to the upper cliff and into the luscious summer-clad base of Helios. A route that can be climbed in one or two pitches. We chose the former fashion and I led-off. The first several metres are without pro, as far as I could establish, therefore I ventured out left and placed pro on a 120 extender in a neat crack and returned to the route. The corner is neat and the friction is good as one climbs towards the borehole and a relic from our climbing forefathers. Exposed bridging follows and a moment later a slabby top-out leads to a belay and a fantastic view of the city. Oh, and time to consider how fabulous Helios is and of course time to belay a valuable second up! "OK, climbing!"

The rhythm of belaying starts, beating out a steady tone with interludes occurring with the occurrence of gear removal. Elsa shouts up, "watch me here", commits to the exposure and bridges like a Romanian gymnast. As is usual with Elsa, the belay isn’t tested and she tops-out. Once again, we take our time as the view is spectacular and our Grecian host has treated us well. But akin to Ulysses our Odyssey was only beginning and our next stop was the superb Thrust *** HVS 5a.

On arriving at the base of Thrust the silence of a beautiful Tuesday morning has been replaced by my rapacious laughter as Elsa tried to remove substantial dog shit from her shoe. On successfully removing said organic material we take-in the line of Thrust. An absent French colleague recently stated that "Thrust is my favourite route in the quarry". Intrigued I started climbing and reached the first fantastic crack that revealed perfect tapered gear placements. Several fingerlocks later and a few howls of enjoyment brings one to the second even better crack where once again gear on-demand is available. As with all on-sights, which is the most exciting way to climb in my humble opinion, the next crack moves one to consider laybacking and ‘going with the flow’, I layback steeply towards the final diagonal airy traverse and top-out. The belay is perfect for watching a second in motion!

Elsa’s motion was thoughtful and exact as she approached the first crack. The rhythm of crack climbing ensued, finger-lock, movement upwards, finger-lock and a stance to catch one’s breath. Elsa breathing hard calls up, "gorgeous climbing – fu*k you", in reference to my claims while on route. Yet another outburst of rapacious laughter rebounds in the Quarry. Elsa takes a final look at the 5a move and commits to a sequence of laybacking, fingerlocks and an airy swing left towards the belay. Breathing hard she passes the belay and sits down to contemplate what she has just climbed and in good fashion. A hand shake occurs and we depart the upper cliffs for our voyage is incomplete.

We descend towards the West Quarry and Moonlighter VS 4b takes our fancy. A route without stars but one of my favourites nonetheless for its intricate footwork. An enjoyable start right of Paradise Lost similar to Pilaster but less serious perhaps! I cruise up and enjoy the airy finish several metres above the last piece of pro in anticipation of how Elsa will find the route. As expected she thoroughly enjoys the delicate start and romps up to safety accompanied by a big smile. However, Moonlighter was not our final port but rather a satellite of our final destination, Blood Crack * HVS 5b.

I was introduced to Blood Crack by Seán last year who dispatched the ‘perplexing start’ with little effort and cruised up the thin crack carrying 3 pieces of gear for the entire route! Subsequently I have battled with this start many times and have, to date, not completed it with style or grace. Blood Crack, akin to Penelope, has had many suitors and refuses to give up her secrets easily. Yet again today, she insists on spurning my advances. I will however, be back to woo the beautiful Penelope whereupon I will consider slaying the remaining 108 suitors!

Dalkey Quarry has treated us well on this fine Tuesday and we have encountered splendid and varied climbing in a beautiful setting. We have tested our skill, technique, strength, wisdom and partnership on a day I will recall for some time to come. But most importantly, we have shared a bond that develops between climbers of similar mind. A bond that reinforces one’s belief in what it means to live fully and experience life without conservatism.

For these experiences and much more I thank you Elsa and I wish you speed and good fortune on your search for your personal Ithaca.

To be continued …
Glendo On-sight Delights

(by Ambrose Flynn, June 2011)
A weekend climbing the classics of Glendalough.

Two weeks ago the long-term weather forecast for Éire was sunny … sunny … sunny. Therefore a weekend trip to Glendo was the only sensible option. But alas, the Atlantic Ocean had other plans in store and closer to the date the weather ‘forecast’ looked decidedly more "Irish"!

Being stubborn folk we decided regardless to frequent the IMC Hut for two days and see what the weather gods had in store for us.

Saturday was a beautiful 20+C with just enough breeze to confine the evil midges to their lairs! The wonderful Quartz Gully was our first port of call. I had the pleasure of climbing Quartz Gully last year but this was Barry’s first attempt and he dispatched the crux second pitch with style. The 60-metre abseil from the Expectancy slab to basecamp was equally enjoyable.

We then switched our attention to Expectancy as Emily joined us for shenanigans … climbing Expectancy, Georgia, Adam’s Rib and Lassitude with the occasional sun-worshiping taking place. Emily left us and we decided to "take a look" at Cracks on the Garden of Eden.

The first pitch of CotGoE (nice eh?) provided a difficult layback start that led to a nice spacious ledge that was unfortunately the home to every midge in Wicklow … that apparently like to attack a belayer’s eyeball with enthusiasm and dedication. Barry took the second pitch and dispatched it in style urging me, on topping out, to take my time and enjoy the pitch … fantastic off-width crack climbing. I started the third crux pitch with light fading feeling strong and confident but on reaching the steep wonderful crux my hands started to sweat and as I reached round for the sanctuary of my chalk bag it decided to plummet to the second belay station (if found a return would be appreciated) thus developing the ebbing away of my "strength and confidence". I decided to down-climb and Barry took lead but due to failing light and our head-torches being in our rucksacks at Expectancy he moved left of the crux and so it was the quickest coiling of ropes and abseil ensued as we reached our rucksacks as we we’re enveloped in darkness. An exhilarating and informative experience no doubt!! But alas, the burden of walking back to the IMC Hut was lessened by the arrival of our saviour, Vincent. And so it was we awoke on Sunday with a slightly sore head and empty stomachs but still looking forward to another day’s climbing and the arrival of Áine.

We walked into Glendo with the spectre of rain a real possibility, however sometimes blind optimism pays dividends.

Barry and I decided to see what all the fuss was about and headed for Prelude Nightmare while Vincent and Áine were braver and hit Sarcophagus.

I took the first pitch of P.N. and really enjoyed the ramp and the delicate climbing on the slab. Barry led the second pitch with ease and as the exposure increased his enjoyment increased. The third pitch was fantastic starting with the steep right-angled corner and an airy ascent up and traverse onto Nightmare Ledge … it didn’t disappoint … what a fantastic belay ledge.

Barry took the final crux pitch and in no time was calling "safe!" I deconstructed the belay and followed up onto the "sensational swing" rightwards and towards the enjoyment of exposed and atmospheric Glendo climbing … what a pitch and situation. Cue the applause for Mister Kenny, Ohrtmann and Winder … fantastic climbing.

Word had reached us at this stage of events that the rest of Éire was under water but Glendo saw only the occasional mist and it was from this mist we heard the familiar French voice of Vincent coming from the "small belay ledge" after the crux third pitch.

He proceeded to inform us that the third pitch was "interesting" as he belayed Áine. I believe my chalk bag wasn’t the only thing left in Glendo that weekend as some of Vincent’s skin may be found on a quartz handhold … the return of which is not necessary. I digress!

Being ravenous we decided to call it a day and our chef mister Murphy assisted by his French partner in crime cooked up a storm … only to be surpassed by Áine as she whipped out the Romantica … bloated we retired to the "minute movement devices" known as the air mattresses.

Monday began with the arrival of Emily and Jo, the departure of Vincent and the arrival of a beautiful day with the all-important midge-slaying wind present!

Myself and Emily headed for Cracks on the Garden of Eden for a rematch with the third pitch, while Barry and Jo hit Quartz Gully for Jo’s first Glendo multipitch adventure.

Once again I was amazed with the quality of the climbing on CotGoE as I led pitches one and two with the spectre of the third pitch getting closer and closer … and it didn’t disappoint … what a fantastic steep pitch. This time the crux went first time and with comfort which was displayed verbally with hoots and howls. Meanwhile, Emily was climbing and enjoying each pitch as this was her reintroduction to multipitch climbing after several years’ multipitch absence.

We descended to Expectancy to meet Barry and Jo who dispatched Quartz Gully with style and vigour.

Jo then led Expectancy comfortably and Emily, who led her first HS route the day before, decided to lead Lassitude (VS) with little resistance. With all troops content and at peace we decided to call it a day.

The weekend provided many challenges and experiences each of which contributed to an overwhelming sense of peacefulness and fulfilment. But, like all questions answered "I wonder what Prelude Nightmare is like?", another takes its place, "I wonder what Sarcophagus is like?" And so the journey continues.

To be continued …
Fraughan Wednesday

(by Ambrose Flynn, June 2011)
A great day on Great Gully Ridge, Wicklow.

As Fraughan Sunday (last Sunday in July) is some way off, myself, Emily and Connor decided to give in to our impetuous nature and venture into Fraughan Rock Glen. It was to our surprise that the best of the pickings were to be found on the ascent towards the Great Gully Ridge and it just so happened that we had our climbing gear with us.

Coincidence… ?

The weather was fine and the ever-present midge-destroying wind was appreciated as we scrambeled towards the first pitch … I could feel the madness in the air … a few howls later I started the first pitch using 60m halves. But on reaching the first belay I was compelled to continue upwards and as close as possible to the left stopping after about 25metres and some nice climbing.

Connor followed up effortlessly as is his manner as did Emily. Connor took the next pitch and felt the madness also as he continued towards the controversial "tat belay". Emily followed and dispatched the "crux" in style and I followed enjoying the warmth of non-polished granite.

On reaching the belay we took a look at the offending tat and decided it’s always better to back up tat if in doubt … and just in time a sling arrived on the back of Lassie … trusty K9.

I took the last pitch and was drawn to the off-width crack to the right of the route, which is instantly recognizable as there’s half a rack stuck in it. The crack is both delicate and strenuous as it pushed one out and to the left but is totally worthwhile (I think the guide gives it an S 4a "Variation") and I’d grade it a stiff 4c with bags of exposure. The top-out directly above the off-width crack is also challenging as the only hand-hold is clumps of grass.

Although I was using 60m halves and extenders I still experienced significant rope drag – I’d suggest that on arriving at the off-width crack one should set up belay and bring your compatriots over to you thus reducing rope drag and when the weather is poor the position at the ‘tat belay’ is very exposed, unlike the off-width belay.

Emily followed and enjoyed the pumpy route as Connor pursued. A few howls and a spot of barking later we were chilling out eating cola bottles … num … num!

After discussing world debt and the housing market … NOT!! … we were moved to consider our options of descent. I suggested an abseil as I’d done so before but Connor was reluctant if it wasn’t necessary and a walk out was possible. Intrigued yet understanding the seriousness of abseiling we discussed further and after hearing his tales and views based upon several seasons in the Alps, I now have a more respectful considered opinion towards abseiling … i.e. if it’s not necessary then don’t do it!

An enjoyable walk down the gully ensued and a little boulder-hopping was in order … only punctuated by more Fraughan berry picking; and a master class on flora by Emily.

Hurrah (nod of the cap) to Fraughan Wednesday … Hurrah!
Belshade, Land of Heart’s Desire

(by John Duignan, May 2011)
An atmospheric weekend climbing at Lough Belshade, Co. Donegal.

In equal measure we are drawn here by Dawson Stelfox (the route names: Classical Revival, Land of Heart’s Desire …), Hugh Sharkey ("the best granite in Ireland") and Gerry Moss ("the rock is so good you can just walk up the VD approach with your hands in your pockets").

All week the weather forecasts were dire. Only consolation was that Donegal may not be the wettest part of Ireland for the weekend. Windscreen wipers on full, Friday saw Hugh (Reynolds) and myself heading up the road.

Treated ourselves to a hostel (Linda’s Independent Hostel, Donegal Town at 16 euro a head was excellent) on Friday night. The walk-in to Lough Belshade in the Bluestack Mountains of South Donegal is 1.5 hours guidebook time. Doing a recce Friday evening, the notice banning walkers on the approach track spelled trouble.

We lugged in our climbing and camping gear over a boggy alternative – double the time and hard on the knees. However it was beautiful terrain too – fields of bluebells, rhodedendrons, violets, mountain pansies and even the odd orchid to distract from the hard work.

Belshade Buttress rises above the lake

We pitched tent on the sandy beach below the Belshade Buttress. The setting showed off the Buttress dramatically.

The fine granite V Diff approach

The sixty-metre V.Diff approach pitch on the Buttress was wet and slippy as was the first of the five-pitch Byzantium, a classic VS put up by Frank Winder in the 1950s. Hugh bridged wider and wider and made an improbable dyno to get by the first few moves. Part of two pitches were vegetated but the route had fabulous granite.

The view of our tent and the lake receding into the distance, a huge raven gliding overhead and the noise of the wind lent a very remote feeling to our surroundings. The crux pitch contained a delicate (wet) ramp with a layback runout above. It felt harder than VS. We both were struck by the courage of the first ascensionists in their big boots and minimalist protection.

Hugh on last pitch of Byzantium, Belshade Buttress

There is something special about camping by a lake with a good meal ahead of you. Even better when your companion has secreted away a bottle of wine!

We woke early on Sunday to the sound of rain beating on the tent. Donegal wove its magic – by breakfast a stiff wind was blowing the rock dry. We climbed on Blaeberry Crag between the showers and really enjoyed its short routes and magnificent Belshade granite. As a shower petered out, Hugh took in Waterloo, a ** Severe that went despite wind and rain and left you wanting more.

Hugh on Waterloo, Blaeberry Crag

Climbing by diary in Donegal is never going to be a certainty. If it’s rain , the Donegal hills make for great hiking. The month of May with its low rainfall, low midgie yield and longer days fulfilled its promise. Donegal will call you back again and again.
Belshade, Land of Heart's Desire

(by John Duignan, May 2011)
An atmospheric weekend climbing at Lough Belshade, Co. Donegal.

In equal measure we are drawn here by Dawson Stelfox (the route names: Classical Revival, Land of Heart’s Desire …), Hugh Sharkey ("the best granite in Ireland") and Gerry Moss ("the rock is so good you can just walk up the VD approach with your hands in your pockets").

All week the weather forecasts were dire. Only consolation was that Donegal may not be the wettest part of Ireland for the weekend. Windscreen wipers on full, Friday saw Hugh (Reynolds) and myself heading up the road.

Treated ourselves to a hostel (Linda’s Independent Hostel, Donegal Town at 16 euro a head was excellent) on Friday night. The walk-in to Lough Belshade in the Bluestack Mountains of South Donegal is 1.5 hours guidebook time. Doing a recce Friday evening, the notice banning walkers on the approach track spelled trouble.

We lugged in our climbing and camping gear over a boggy alternative – double the time and hard on the knees. However it was beautiful terrain too – fields of bluebells, rhodedendrons, violets, mountain pansies and even the odd orchid to distract from the hard work.

Belshade Buttress rises above the lake

We pitched tent on the sandy beach below the Belshade Buttress. The setting showed off the Buttress dramatically.

The fine granite V Diff approach

The sixty-metre V.Diff approach pitch on the Buttress was wet and slippy as was the first of the five-pitch Byzantium, a classic VS put up by Frank Winder in the 1950s. Hugh bridged wider and wider and made an improbable dyno to get by the first few moves. Part of two pitches were vegetated but the route had fabulous granite.

The view of our tent and the lake receding into the distance, a huge raven gliding overhead and the noise of the wind lent a very remote feeling to our surroundings. The crux pitch contained a delicate (wet) ramp with a layback runout above. It felt harder than VS. We both were struck by the courage of the first ascensionists in their big boots and minimalist protection.

Hugh on last pitch of Byzantium, Belshade Buttress

There is something special about camping by a lake with a good meal ahead of you. Even better when your companion has secreted away a bottle of wine!

We woke early on Sunday to the sound of rain beating on the tent. Donegal wove its magic – by breakfast a stiff wind was blowing the rock dry. We climbed on Blaeberry Crag between the showers and really enjoyed its short routes and magnificent Belshade granite. As a shower petered out, Hugh took in Waterloo, a ** Severe that went despite wind and rain and left you wanting more.

Hugh on Waterloo, Blaeberry Crag

Climbing by diary in Donegal is never going to be a certainty. If it’s rain , the Donegal hills make for great hiking. The month of May with its low rainfall, low midgie yield and longer days fulfilled its promise. Donegal will call you back again and again.

In Search of Ithaca

Glendo On-sight Delights

Fraughan Wednesday

Belshade, Land of Heart’s Desire

Belshade, Land of Heart's Desire