(by John Duignan, May 2011)
A Wicklow climbing diary.

Joe on pitch 1, Curved Air, Luggala

Against an azure sky, the peregrine silently circled Joe (Reville) on the descent to Luggala. A good omen. We chose the two-star VS route Curved Air that rises above Conifer Terrace. The top ramp pitch is as exciting a climb as there is at this level on the crag as it curves and rises improbably. A quick romp up Pine Tree Butress ends a great day’s climbing.

End of day: Joe on Pine Tree Buttress

Days later, Seán (Barrett) is back in Glendaloch after a few months abroad. To celebrate we choose a line that is rarely dry, Lag Mara. It winds its way up the crag beside the waterfall alongside Forest Rhapsody. Our line is governed by what is dry rather than the guidebook and we take an arete parallel to the guidebook description. We are rewarded with some fine granite, stunning views and interesting rock challenges. Chockstones and one ancient tape show that early climbers knew this line. It is well worth an outing after a dry spell.

Seán on third pitch, Lag Mara

Luggala draws us back for more before the midgie season starts. Barry (Denton)is puzzled by the guidebook description of the three-star VS route we plan; how would any of us unravel the puzzles of the lines on this crag without Gerry Moss’s introduction? Today the delicate beginning moves of All Along the Watchtower are bone-dry. We split the first pitch in two as it winds first to the right, then left and back again. The second pitch – a descent backwards down a ramp with the rock wall trying to push you off and a gap to step over at bottom of the ramp – is a very memorable passage. I lose concentration as I climb the wall above the ramp and find myself flying backwards through the air to swing to and fro fifteen feet below the ramp. Barry looks relieved as I cackle manically, coming back through the gap in the ramp. "The Flying Doctor service", I joke – very relieved at getting away with a few scratches. The final pitch is equally delightful clean granite. The views from the Woody Wall of the lake below and the peregrines in flight are beautiful.

Barry backs down the ramp on All Along the Watchtower

Thanks Joe, Barry and Séan for these great days. We are so fortunate to have these gems at our doorstep and great rope mates in the club to share them. If the recession is affecting your chance of a trip away this year, there is great granite a short hop down the road.

(by John Duignan, April 2010)
A Luggala climbing diary.

18 April

It was crowded at Luggala – I could see below Gerry G and Sé starting Temptation; Terry was about; Naomi & crew were on H Buttress climbing something sheer; Rob and Alan McD were gliding up Left Climb Direct.

Earlier as we approached over Fancy Hill, Nature was making way for these revellers. Herds of deer peered curiously at us and then bounded away, silhouetted against the morning sun. On the descent path a screeching Peregrine circled H Buttress, drawing us from its nest, well hidden on the far side of the Main Face. A billy goat with a young kid nimbly ambled along Conifer Terrace as we teetered with care on the dewy grass.

We start with Pentax, one of the climbs Steve Young put up and still remembers favourably. Barry Denton was on his second visit to Luggala and danced up its slabs and corner-climbing. The traverse under the large roof with the view down over crag and the Guinness Estate’s manicured gardens by the lake and across to the Spearhead steparound was the finest part of the climb. The climb is an easy touch at Luggala, VS 4b compared to its neighbour Clingon / Claidheamh Solais (VS 4c full-on along most of its crux pitch), but shares many of its joys – clean slab climbing in a stunning situation.

Crevasse Route (VS 4c crux pitch) on South Buttress was our second choice. The first two pitches were a nightmare of dying vegetation – avoid them by taking the Muskrat Ramble start – but the final pitch made it worthwhile; Luggala VS climbing at its best with 32 metres of constant interest and great fun imagining some of the possible gear placements. If Heineken did climbs …

Going home across the now silent hills, the deer drifted back to reclaim their own.

This picture was taken by Steve Young on the first ascent of Pisces in 1973.
The final pitch of Pentax is in the same territory.

25 April

Back at the crag this weekend with Gerry Galligan aka Captain Heelhook. We are met with a cold wind across the lake and silence other than the warning screech of the Peregrine on our approach. Is it nesting over beyond H Buttress or trying to distract us from its nest?

Twenty feet up the first pitch of Muskrat Ramble my head just isn’t right. The next thirty feet seem equally bare of gear and the moves on the lichenous slab delicate. I’m cold and the voices in my head start up …

Moving across to another climb we pass Left Side Climb Direct. Warmed up from Muskrat, the grunty start goes easily but is followed by a lot of thrashing about on the first ramp. Rob Madden, kind soul, has generously left a Cam in place at 15 feet – perfect! The upper section of the pitch lies back and the gear is great. This 5b well-protected pitch seems much easier than the run-out 4b Muskrat start. A stunning traverse follows, past the remnants of a seriously large Raven’s nest to a hanging belay with great views of the Face. Gerry bridges and laybacks up next pitch beautifully. If this climb was at Glendalough, it would be polished and much visited.

Captain Heelhook on Raven’s Nest traverse pitch of Left Side Climb

Gerry Galligan bridging the start of the third pitch of Left Side Climb

Lunch in style at Conifer Terrace; Gerry cleverly left a bag here for a midday break. We admire his newly-cleaned final pitch of Taktix and I listen to his tales of Indian adventures. The wind is picking up and I wonder what difference it will make on the exposed route to the top of the crag.

Squawk looks an unlikely Hard Severe with its overhanging corner finish. First pitch is an easy slab moving onto a vegetated ledge with a poorly-protected belay site. The final corner – even with cold hands – is a gem with stunning holds and unlikely foot placements coming into play. Misty rain rolls in as we make our way off the climb. We laugh at our good fortune. A longer-than-usual walk out after losing the path in the mist can’t dampen our spirts at another great Luggala day. It feels more like an alpine day than cragging. Enjoy it before the midsummer midgies take over!

(by John Duignan, April 2010)
A Luggala climbing diary.

18 April

It was crowded at Luggala – I could see below Gerry G and Sé starting Temptation; Terry was about; Naomi & crew were on H Buttress climbing something sheer; Rob and Alan McD were gliding up Left Climb Direct.

Earlier as we approached over Fancy Hill, Nature was making way for these revellers. Herds of deer peered curiously at us and then bounded away, silhouetted against the morning sun. On the descent path a screeching Peregrine circled H Buttress, drawing us from its nest, well hidden on the far side of the Main Face. A billy goat with a young kid nimbly ambled along Conifer Terrace as we teetered with care on the dewy grass.

We start with Pentax, one of the climbs Steve Young put up and still remembers favourably. Barry Denton was on his second visit to Luggala and danced up its slabs and corner-climbing. The traverse under the large roof with the view down over crag and the Guinness Estate’s manicured gardens by the lake and across to the Spearhead steparound was the finest part of the climb. The climb is an easy touch at Luggala, VS 4b compared to its neighbour Clingon / Claidheamh Solais (VS 4c full-on along most of its crux pitch), but shares many of its joys – clean slab climbing in a stunning situation.

Crevasse Route (VS 4c crux pitch) on South Buttress was our second choice. The first two pitches were a nightmare of dying vegetation – avoid them by taking the Muskrat Ramble start – but the final pitch made it worthwhile; Luggala VS climbing at its best with 32 metres of constant interest and great fun imagining some of the possible gear placements. If Heineken did climbs …

Going home across the now silent hills, the deer drifted back to reclaim their own.

This picture was taken by Steve Young on the first ascent of Pisces in 1973.
The final pitch of Pentax is in the same territory.

25 April

Back at the crag this weekend with Gerry Galligan aka Captain Heelhook. We are met with a cold wind across the lake and silence other than the warning screech of the Peregrine on our approach. Is it nesting over beyond H Buttress or trying to distract us from its nest?

Twenty feet up the first pitch of Muskrat Ramble my head just isn’t right. The next thirty feet seem equally bare of gear and the moves on the lichenous slab delicate. I’m cold and the voices in my head start up …

Moving across to another climb we pass Left Side Climb Direct. Warmed up from Muskrat, the grunty start goes easily but is followed by a lot of thrashing about on the first ramp. Rob Madden, kind soul, has generously left a Cam in place at 15 feet – perfect! The upper section of the pitch lies back and the gear is great. This 5b well-protected pitch seems much easier than the run-out 4b Muskrat start. A stunning traverse follows, past the remnants of a seriously large Raven’s nest to a hanging belay with great views of the Face. Gerry bridges and laybacks up next pitch beautifully. If this climb was at Glendalough, it would be polished and much visited.

Captain Heelhook on Raven’s Nest traverse pitch of Left Side Climb

Gerry Galligan bridging the start of the third pitch of Left Side Climb

Lunch in style at Conifer Terrace; Gerry cleverly left a bag here for a midday break. We admire his newly-cleaned final pitch of Taktix and I listen to his tales of Indian adventures. The wind is picking up and I wonder what difference it will make on the exposed route to the top of the crag.

Squawk looks an unlikely Hard Severe with its overhanging corner finish. First pitch is an easy slab moving onto a vegetated ledge with a poorly-protected belay site. The final corner – even with cold hands – is a gem with stunning holds and unlikely foot placements coming into play. Misty rain rolls in as we make our way off the climb. We laugh at our good fortune. A longer-than-usual walk out after losing the path in the mist can’t dampen our spirts at another great Luggala day. It feels more like an alpine day than cragging. Enjoy it before the midsummer midgies take over!

(by Peter O’Neill, 1999)
Joss Lynam’s 75th-birthday ascent of Pine Tree Buttress in Luggala.

On Saturday 17th July 1999, en route to his 75th birthday party, Joss Lynam climbed Pine Tree Buttress at Luggala, a route which had its first ascent fifty years ago, on 26th March 1949, led by Joss himself. This time the route was climbed by a party of three, with Liam Convery leading Joss and Bill Hannon.

Hear Joss talk about the climb: