What a fantastic weekend, thanks again Jon for organising it. Even though the weather wasn’t the best for Saturday some got to climb and others had a beautiful hike in the Mournes which took us over Slieve Donard.
Below are a few pictures I took and others that were shared with me from the weekend.
Some of the new members from the 2015 New Members Programme got together on 26-28 September in the Burren, Co Clare. One of our number had recently climbed at a small crag there called Ballyryan and told us there were some nice easy climbs so off we set.
I arrived to Aille River Hostel on Friday night and had to pitch my tent in the dark, even though I had taken the day off work life still got in the way! On arrival I knew the others, Derek – Thierry – Cedric – Pam – Peter and Emma, were already there and had gone for something to eat but they waited until after that to put up their tents so we all had a bit of craic.
The camping field in the hostel was small but very nice with the river right beside us. We all helped each other pitch the tents and it was done in no time at all. We then adjourned to the local hostelry, Fitz Bar, up the road to plan the next day’s climbing. Pam was elected El Presidente for the weekend. My ambitions for the weekend were to get a couple of Severe climbs done, climb a chimney and maybe look at a Hard Severe or two.
On Saturday morning Gina joined us and we set off for Ballyryan, the weather was perfect, dry – bright – slight breeze. We got there and we were all impressed by the crag. We initially looked at the face and found a few climbs we wanted climb, we then climbed an access gully to check out the anchors. We set about climbing then, Peter set up a top rope on Chimney (D) so people could warm up if they wanted.
I started off leading Rib (VD), it was a nice little climb and no protection needed until at least half way up. There was not much protect and the little slabby bit at the end was the only tough bit but I got up it no problem. Anchoring at the top was not as easy as in Dalkey Quarry – I missed those gorse bushes – but there was enough with slings, hexes and big nuts. I seconded Aoife (my daughter) up the climb and she liked it, I then belayed a few more so they could experience the climb.
I then moved over to Wide Chimney (D) that was no problem. I got the chimney climb in, I had never climbed a chimney before but had a good idea what is was about and really enjoyed it. Then I lead Right Crack (VD) and that was a nice climb with nothing difficult on it and seconded Gina. It was a great morning but it was time for lunch. Breaking with tradition we decided to go back to the hostel, because it was only a 10 minute drive away, for lunch. We had a table to eat at and kettles for hot water. It was a bit of a mixed bag with everyone throwing in what they had and helping themselves. We were only gone for an hour and rearing to go when we got back.
After lunch it was time to do the Severe climbs. I started by leading Frost in May (S) and the crux was getting from the ledge to the top. It was a delicate little move but I got it and was chuffed at myself. I seconded Cedric on the climb and Gina followed. We then moved onto Ballyalpine (S) and this was an interesting climb as well, the little traverse to the right was not as difficult as I thought and I managed it with no problem. I was on a high now and just saw Emma on Vulgarian (S) so decide it was worth a go and managed it with no difficulty.
I was feeling the strain at this stage and the adrenaline was wearing off. I looked at some HS’s – Left Crack, The Alcove Crack and Triumph Crack – but I decided I wanted to finish on the high so decided against it. I now have a reason to go back again . Well done to Thierry as he lead Triumph Crack.
Gina decided it was time to do her first lead, she had seconded Right Crack (VD) earlier and felt comfortable doing that so off she set with Cedric belaying her. I met her at the top as she wasn’t too confident about anchors and she set them up no problem and seconded Cedric. WELL DONE Gina.
Ballyryan was such a great crag for us to visit. It had nice easy climbs to get us into the swing of it again and a few challenging ones with a few very hard ones if we wanted to be adventurous. I thoroughly enjoyed the day and managed to get all the things on my list ticked off, remember I did say look at some HS climbs. I would definitely recommend it for anyone that wants to get some good climbing done, the only down side is that the crag is not too high so the routes are short.
On the Sunday morning the group went in two directions with some going to Lahinch for a spot of surfing and some of us going to Doolin Beach to do a bit of bouldering. The walk into Doolin Beach was long but nice, most of us were feeling wrecked from the climbing the day before.
All except Derek “the energiser bunny” who had one climb done before I even opened the mat, three done while I looked at the bouldering guide and five done before I got my shoes on – he was on fire this morning. Derek had been there before so we did a few climbs he knew and general did anything that looked easy (in my case anyway). It was an enjoyable morning and with the long drive ahead of us back to Dublin we finished around lunch time.
All in all it was a fantastic weekend with the 2015 newbies getting in a lot of good climbing and surfing. It was not all about the climbing though with a good social element involved. A lot of good friendships have been forged thanks to the IMC 2015 New Members Programme. I can’t wait for the next trip away, Glendalough in November was mentioned, looking forward to it.
IMC Introduction to Rock Climbing for New Members 2014
by Louise Curtis
Having climbed weekly at Awesome Walls for several months last winter, the outdoors beckoned. While changing my shoes to go home, an IMC member who happened to sit beside me told me about the introduction programme that the IMC run for beginners. That evening I went home and emailed immediately to secure my place, I must have appeared quite eager considering it was the beginning of January and the programme was to begin in April. And so, with the introductory presentation in the Teacher’s Club, began the most interesting and challenging sport I have ever taken up.
I was initially surprised by the amount of people who had a new found desire to scale up rock faces and put their nerves to the test. Having eased us in with an evening at Awesome Walls it was now time to move on to bigger and less colour coded walls in Dalkey Quarry. Having never been to the quarry before, I was left astounded by the existence of this hidden gem of which I had no knowledge, and I a Dubliner. I was very excited to get started and the enthusiasm of all the members was very encouraging. We got started practising setting up anchors and tying various different knots and it was only when belaying a rope bag from the top of ‘Paradise Lost’, arms falling out of their sockets, that I thought to myself, ‘I must be mad!’
However, I graduated from belaying bags and got my first taste of climbing on granite. With slightly shaking hands and feet, I followed my patient partner up Yorkshire Pudding. I couldn’t believe how my hands and feet gripped to the rock, a slight Spiderman feeling but with more chance of falling.
It was exhilarating. Over the next few weeks in Dalkey my confidence, and the confidence of my fellow beginners, seemed to grow. Every Thursday I looked forward to my evenings in Dalkey and the new climbs and challenges I would face. Having seconded climbs from Paradise Lost to Binglestein, I was feeling very pleased with my decision to go on this introduction programme. One cold and blustery evening in May we met at Bullock harbour for a session on placing gear and practicing making anchors.
What really continued to surprise me was the generosity of the IMC members with both their time and patience, not to mention their sharing of gear. Our few weeks in Dalkey was to end with a weekend of climbing in the Mournes and so myself and climbing partner Tim Kay set off in search of new rock to climb. The weekend to the Bearnagh slabs did not go quite everyone has envisioned it due to our unreliable Irish climate. After a wet few hours it was decided that the climbing would have to be called off and a hike would substitute.
Through the mist and drizzling rain we set off on our seven hour hike through the Mourne Mountains. Despite not being able to climb this trip was an enjoyable one, perhaps more so for those with proper hiking boots and waterproofs, but if nothing else we all got to know one another better and see the sights from the eminent ‘Game of Thrones’. With tired legs, and in one case and unknown fracture, we headed home the next morning after a hearty Northern Irish breakfast from the Meelmore Lodge.
As the programme was now finished it was up to ourselves what we did with our new climbing knowledge and insight into the world of challenging gravity. It was by now that I felt ready to start trying some leads myself, and with the encouragement of Cillian Russell as a partner one evening, I led my first climb on ‘Grave’, to my surprise and delight. It was from here that I went on
to lead several others like Paradise Lost, Levitation, Eliminate A and Calypso, some of which required slightly more encouragement than others!
Our day at Barnbawn definitely helped to build on my confidence with leading. What a wonderful spot in Wicklow founded by Gerry Moss with many Diff and V Diff routes for the aspiring lead climber. This was without doubt one of my favourite climbing days of the past few months as I had the opportunity to lead climb all day and really work on gear placement.
Overall, the past few months of trad climbing have been fantastic. From belaying ropes bags up Paradise Lost to my recent ‘baptism of fire’ attempting to lead Jameson 10, I’ve experienced fear, excitement, success and failure but most of all a new found delight in the challenges that climbing up rocks poses.
(by Lynn Ryan, from IMC Newsletter Summer 2004)
"I had learnt … that climbing is not merely a sport but an addiction. I had been hooked from day one, so I wasn’t going to let something like a fear of heights stop me!"
I have always been petrified of heights. The first thought that entered my mind as I walked into Dalkey Quarry was to run. I had been climbing indoors for six months without any vertigo problems but when I arrived at the quarry I knew that it was going to be a toss up between ‘feel the fear and do it anyway’ and legging it.
This was the second night of the Beginners climbing course. The first night had been at the wall in UCD where 22 bumblies (well some of them not quite … if the truth be known) complete with new shoes and shiny carabiners were introduced to the basics of climbing. For many this was the first time they had climbed – for me personally the biggest challenge was yet to come … the first session in the quarry – but in spite of my fear I was determined to do it. I had learnt six months previously when I started climbing indoors that climbing is not merely a sport but an addiction. I had been hooked from day one … so I wasn’t going to let something like a fear of heights stop me!
In the quarry each instructor was designated two beginners. Hugh Sharkey would be the person that would lead the first route that I ever climbed – ‘D Route’. I stood at the bottom and managed to convince myself that it really wasn’t that high. Pushing my fear aside I climbed until I had one last move to do … then reality struck … it was a case of Hugh-ston we have a problem and I do recall saying ‘Hugh I think I am going to be sick’! Hugh very calmly replied ‘Lynn I don’t think you will be ‘. I took him at his word and finished the route. Having survived I relaxed totally and from that moment on I really started to enjoy the climbing.
The course consisted of five sessions – the first at the wall and the rest in Dalkey. It covered everything from fitting a harness and tying on, to belaying, rope handling, climbing calls and climbing techniques. It was also a great opportunity for new members to meet lots of the established members, for people to make contacts and to find climbing partners. The beginners meet organised by Kevin Byrne the weekend after the course finished was a further chance to consolidate these contacts, to put into practice everything learnt on the course and to gain an insight into what the IMC is really about. There was lots of climbing, lots of music and lots of fun topped off by some fantastic weather.
On behalf of all the beginners I would really like to thank everyone that was involved in the organisation, running and instructing on the course – who gave up so much of their personal time and who passed on their valuable experience.
I learnt so much on the beginners course – I now know my Italian from my Clove hitch … but leaving climbing aside I have met so many nice people. Hopefully it will be the start of some great friendships and many years of climbing.
(by Declan Cunningham, from the IMC Newsletter, Summer 2000)
The Glendalough weekend, the grand finale of the IMC beginners’ course.
The Thursday night sessions had come to an end as had the reign of the weather fairy that had blessed us for that part of the beginners’ course in Dalkey. Now we were setting our sights on bigger and better things in the shape of what is arguably the best crag in the country – Glendalough.
I had been a little apprehensive about the use of the word ‘HUT’ to describe our lodgings for the weekend but was pleasantly relieved on my arrival to find a structure that not only had walls and a roof but running water, electricity and bunks with mattresses!
As with most get-togethers like this you get a fierce mix of people (or should that be a mix of fierce people?) From the outset though the one difference I was immediately aware of was that between the Leaders and the Beginners. Maybe it was just me but I suppose I felt like I just hadn’t earned the right to make that beautiful clinking noise just yet.
Those of us who ventured out on Friday went to the local watering hole for a few ‘sociables’ and needless to say the demon drink loosened tongues and tightened the group.
Saturday dawned, a glorious day. Everyone busied themselves with breakfast and climbing gear before starting the wee trek to the crag. Not so wee a trek actually and I was glad I hadn’t overdone it the night before.
People broke into groups and headed their separate ways in increasingly septic weather conditions. Conor Byrne was leading myself Barry and Sheila up what was for each of us, our first multi-pitch climb. It’s called Forest Rhapsody and we were all eager to get to grips with it.
It was pretty wet from the rain but the sun was doing its best to dry it off as we leapfrogged our way up the first few pitches. Things were going swimmingly. In fact I hardly even noticed how high it was until I’d just left the apparent safety of Forest Ledge and slid my way out onto the corner on small holds. This was the first time I felt the space of the valley behind me tugging at my back. I still had to look down though, I mean when would I be there next?
The rain and hail made good their threats to visit us and the miserable conditions slowed us down a fair bit on the last two pitches. To be honest I wasn’t too bothered about the hail or the wind or the cold. The only element that mattered was mine and I was in it.
Getting down was an epic with the shitty weather well and truly taking hold. Abseiling down Expectancy Slab (or Pregnancy as it was fondly referred to) I felt the onset of the climbing equivalent of labour pains. I was clinging to my 8mm nylon umbilical chord as the wind lifted me off the slab and the hail bounced off the rock and into my face. It was still fun though.
We were all glad to get back to the hut and even treated ourselves to showers. Bellies rumbled and appetites were soon sorted with salad, rolls and a lovely chilli thingy not quite hot enough to merit putting toilet rolls in the fridge for the morning.
Our bellies weren’t quite satisfied so the cleanup was followed by the inevitable exodus to the Glendalough Hotel to exchange tales, down ales or simply ‘work the room’. Those of us who felt, in our wisdom, that enough wasn’t enough decided to make ourselves welcome at a wedding that was much too convenient to avoid. Our adventure ended with a cold shoulder from the manager, followed swiftly by a warm welcome from the bride. At that stage the novelty had worn off so it was back to the hut where the chatting continued to the wee hours.
Bar a little tiredness it was surprisingly easy to rise and shine on Sunday morning despite the antics of the night before. The weather was once again coaxing us out with idle promises of sunshine that would no doubt turn to hail once again.
I was feeling adventurous and was among the first to head for the crag. We met some early risers already coming back but my head was set and I could feel myself trying to see around the trees to the crag even before I got there.
The weather was mixed but unfortunately because of a lot of waiting around on the route meant we got very little done. As was expected the weather turned nasty; once again we were forced to beat a reluctant retreat. With everything soaked that would be it for the day. I remember looking back and seeing a group high up on Forest Rhapsody. I was envious despite the rain.
Getting home proved to be an adventure in itself but it had been a thoroughly enjoyable and excellent weekend. It was invaluable not only from a climbing point of view but probably more importantly it was the first time I felt like I wasn’t just getting to know members of the club but making friends.
I’m sure I speak for all the beginners when I say a VERY BIG THANK-YOU to all the leaders for leading us up climbs when you would much rather being doing routes on your own and to the IMC for running such an excellent course. I mean what other course would you be able to climb a Yorkshire Pudding, see a Ghost, crash a wedding, turn in your Grave, sleep ten to a room and find Paradise Lost?
Long may it continue so see you in Dalkey and bring a friend.