2020 IMC New Routes Roundup

While 2020 was a trying year for our climbers and mountaineers many new routes were climbed up and down the Country by members and their pals. There is still much new rock out there to explore and climb.

Deerprk Crag Howth Dublin

Daoine Eile (HS 4b) 9m
Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty
Follows the hand sized crack at the left side of the rock face to the top. Belay from trees.

Daoine Maithe (HVS 5a) 13m
Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak
Start at the same crack as Daoine, but traverse out right under the small bulge to the small cracks with good gear, continue straight up. Belay from trees.

Snotser (HS 4b)18m
Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak
Scramble up the easily angled rock to a ledge. From the ledge climb the corner with the off width crack which leads to a short left tending ramp, climb the crack behind the ramp to the top. Or more easily follow the ramp.

Carrick Mountain Wicklow

Ballymacsimon

COCOONING WHORTS     15m     HS

B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 2/5/2020
The corner between On The Run and Garvaghy Road. Climb the corner moving left around the overhang with some deft footwork (crux). Move right to gain the arete and climb the wall above on good holds.

Aghowle Upper 

1 Isolation Nation. Diff.

Gerry Moss, March 2020
Start at the foot of a pointed block at the bottom right of the crag. From the top of the block step across onto a short sloping ramp. From the top of the ramp move up and follow the right edge to the top. Belay well back at a jammed block.

2. Virus direst. Severe (mild).

Gerry Moss, March 2020
Start as for 1. From the top of the block step across onto the bottom of a short sloping ramp. Climb up diagonally left to the foot of a shallow corner. Gain the corner (crux) and continue straight up. Belay well back at a jammed block.

3. Polemic Pandemic. VD.

Gerry Moss, March 2020
Start at the bottom left of the pointed block. Climb up bearing left for about 4m then move right into short left facing corner and straight up

4. Be wise, sanitise Diff

Gerry Moss, March 2020

Start 1m left of 3. Climb up for 3m then step left onto arête and climb this to top.

5. Cocooners and Zoomers Diff

Gerry Moss, March 2020

Start 1m left of 4 below a niche. Step up and pull out left and follow cracks up to just right of tree stump.

6. Trump the Chump HS(4a).

Gerry Moss, March 2020

Start 2m left of 5 at the foot of a shallow right-facing cracked corner. Climb the corner, moving out left near its top, then move up to below a right-slanting crack and narrow ramp. Step up right onto the ramp then move straight up, to finish left of the tree stump.

7. Dettol no cure-all. S.

Gerry Moss, March 2020
Start 2m left of 6, at foot of short right-slanting crack below a bulge. Climb the bulge and move up to a ledge. Finish direct.

8. 2 meters, 6 feeters. Severe (mild).

Gerry Moss, March 2020
2m left of 7 below cracked corner. Climb the corner to below ledge with small dead tree on the left. Step across right, climb up over 2 ledges and pull up to easier ground (crux).

9. 5k – don’t stray. S.

Gerry Moss, March 2020
Start 2m left of 8, below short corner. Climb the corner until level with small dead tree on the right. Move straight up from here (crux).

10. Health Carers – brunt bearers. VS4b.

Gerry Moss, March 2020
Start 3m right of, and down from, a small pine tree, below crack in short wall. Climb the crack and move up to a ledge below another crack in a short, impending wall. Up over this to the top.

11. Stuck at Home ÓChón. VS(4c).

Gerry Moss, March 2020
Start about 12m left of 10 at the foot of a large rowan tree growing close to the face of an undercut buttress. Climb the face, on large jugs at first, the holds growing smaller with height. Belay at the pine tree.

12. Hold firm, don’t squirm. HS(4a).

Gerry Moss, March 2020
Start 1m left of the large rowan tree. Climb the left edge, a steep start leading to easier climbing. Belay at the pine tree.
To the left of ‘Hold firm, don’t squirm’ is a break, followed by an adjoining pear-shaped buttress.

13. Herd Immunity. VS (4c).

Gerry Galligan, Cearbhall Daly, 10 October 2020.
Starts at the right-hand end of the pear-shaped buttress, next to the break. Climb the undercut with strenuous moves to a short niche. Move up to a groove and climb the groove to finish.

Aghowle Lower 

1.Aghgowle Addict. VD.

G. Moss. 10/9/20.
Start near the left end of the slab, below a narrow ledge at knee height. Climb, trending left to a break at left end of sloping ramp. Step up right onto ramp and move straight up from there.

2. Deireadh na Choillte. VD.

G. Moss. 10/9/20.
Start 1m right of knee height ledge, below left trending shallow cracks. From top of these step up to pocket below sloping ramp. Gain the ramp and finish direct.

3. Feasta gan Adhmad. S3c

C. Daly, G. Galligan, 6/9/20.
Start 2m right of 2, in front of large tree stump. Climb straight up to break in the upper section and finish direct.

4. Bealach Glas. HS 4b.

G. Galligan, C. Daly, 6//9/20.
Start just right of 3, below a thin fault line trending slightly right. From the top of this climb straight up to a small niche and finish direct from here.

5. Nerve Agent. VS 4b.

G. Galligan, C. Daly, 6/9/20.
Start 2m right of 4 and just L of small boulder at foot of the slab. Move up and gain thin crack running up to an overlap. Straight up from here.

6. Éminence Grise. HS 4b.

J. Duignan, G.M. 6/9/20.
Start just right of small boulder at foot of slab. A delicate start gains the thin, continuous crack line running directly up the slab. Step across left to good holds when the crack fades just below the top.

7. Ttryst. HS 4b

C. Daly, G. Galligan 6/9/20.
.Start just left of a large tree stump, below a short, left trending crack at half height. Gain this and and follow a line directly up the slab.

8. Slab Happy. VS 4b.

G. Moss. 23/8/20.

Start 1m R of 7 and just right of the large tree stump, directly below a short, wide, broken crackline in the upper section of the slab. Climb straight up, the crux being the delicate section in the middle of the climb. Finish on good holds.

9. Season of Mists. VS 4b.

G. Moss. 23/8/20.
Start 1m right of 8, below a short vertical crack at the top of the slab. The crux is the delicate section in the middle of the climb.

10. Great Craic. VD.

G. Moss. 23/8/20.
This climb take the obvious, fistwide crackline running the full height of the slab.

11. An Ghaoth Aniar. VS 4b.

G. Moss. 4/9/2020.

Start just right of rte.10. Follow a line directly up to gain a short, right trending, thin crack in the upper section of the slab.

12. Stumped. VS 4b.

G. Moss. 4/9/2020.
Start 1m right of 11, in front of small tree stump. This climb takes a straight line up the slab, on small holds, finishing up via the pale upper section, with the crux at half height.

13. Flying Doctor. S 4a.

G. Moss. 23/8/20.
Start 1m right of 12, below a short, shallow, left facing corner halfway up the slab. Move up, gain a good ledge above the corner, crux, and finish more easily.

14. Nobrainer. VD

G. Moss. 10/9/20.
Start at the right end of the slab, to the right of Flying Doctor, below a crack leading up to a ledge on its left. Climb the crack, move L to the ledge and finish up the short wall above.

Ballylusk

1.Walking by Woods. Diff.

Gerry Moss 1/8/2020
Start below the left edge of the narrow buttress. Climb up on good holds, moving right just below the top for an easy exit. Tree belay.

2. Whose woods these are. Diff.

Gerry Moss 1/8/2020
Follow a line up the centre of the buttress. Moving right at the top for an easy exit. Tree Belay.

3. The woods are lovely. Diff.

Gerry Moss 1/8/2020
Climb the left edge of the narrow chimney. Tree belay.

4. Cillian’s Route1. V.Diff

C. Russell, H. Herzmann, Gerry Moss 11/7/2020.
Start below the right edge of the shallow chimney. Follow the edge to the top. Tree belay.

5. Dark and Deep. S.

Gerry Moss, C. Russell, H. Herzmann 11/7/2020.
Start 1m right of the chimney and follow an obvious line of weakness to the top. tree belay.

6. Promises to Keep. S.
Gerry Moss, H. Herzmann, C. Russell 11/7/2020.

Start 1m right of above, below a small overhang at 2m. Up steeply, trending left through the overhang and follow a line of weakness to the top. Tree belay.

7. Miles to Go.

Gerry Moss 17/10/2020.
Start as for above. Straight up through the overhang and continue up a shallow, left facing, slabby corner. Tree belay.

8. Cillian’s Route2. VS 4c**.

C. Russell, H. Herzmann, Gerry Moss, 11/7/2020
Start 3m right of above, below a left trending ramp. Climb the ramp and continue up to the overhanging corner. Steeply up through this on good holds. Tree belay.

9. Before I sleep. V. Diff.

Gerry Moss 25/7/2020.
Start at the extreme right of the crag, around to the right of the face. Climb a flake, trending right to below a tree. Up steeply by the tree. Tree belay.

Helvick Head Waterford

The two Wicklow Gerry’s did some new routes here, details will soon emerge

Carrignacapall Sheep’s Head Cork

Fin & Minke VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of BNA, small wires useful, picture of line below,

Blackball Head Beara Cork

Ecstasy Wall

The Rolling Wave VS *
Gerry Galligan, Hugh Reynolds 3 Aug 2020
1) Mod. Starts on the large and low tidal shelf at the far left-hand end of the Head, i.e. at its apex point – the bow. Climb the short black bow of the Head to gain the wide ledge. Belay here. 8m.
2) 4c Move up the shallow, grooved-wall (crux) to finish through the notch of two horizontal fingers of rock – the forked bowsprit. Belay here – possibly the best belay position in the world! 17m.

Rock Lobster 35m VS 4b *
Hugh Reynolds, Gerry Galligan, 2/8/2020
Three left-facing short corners stand at the left end of an incised blue headwall. Here take the middle corner offering limited protection(crux). Continue up another short corner and finish directly to the top.

Blackball Headwall

Back to Mizen 65m VD
Paddy O’Brien, William Blanchfield, Brian Walker, August 2020.
Starts about 10m above the high tide mark and below and to the right of a dark triangular block which is about 1/3 up the wall. The route goes to the right of the dark triangular block, then up a short corner finishing between Regatta Ridge and Dear Deborah.

Black Sabbath Wall

Ozzie’s Bat 25m S
Paddy O’Brien, Con O’Shea 3/08/2020.
Takes shallow cracks to the left of a slabby bulge at the centre of the wall, directly to the top.

Aifreann Dubh 25m V Diff
Paddy O’Brien, Con O’Shea 3/08/2020.
Takes a line to the right of a slabby bulge at the centre of the wall, directly to the top.

Burren Clare

Ballyryan

HIGHWAY PATROL S
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 17/10/2020
Before the roadside crag swings sharply East and 5m left of PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS there is a high face split by a discontinuous crack line. Climb the crack and take care with the rock.

Leacht na nAmadan Oughtdarra

Crumlin Wall

HUSAVIK D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020.
Climb the corner.

CRUMLIN ROAD HS 4b
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020.
Start 3m”s right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.

Swampstone Wall

SWAMP STONE CRACK S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O’Toole, 18th October 2020.
Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.

Shadow and Bone Wall

JOHNNY JUMP UP VS 4c *
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020.
Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.

EMERALD HS *
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020.
Climb the next pillar on it’s left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1m right of the arete.

CHASING CARS VD
Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O’Toole, Audrey O’Toole, 17th October 2020.
Climb the crack 5m right of EMERALD to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.

Brandon’s Block

SETTLERS OF CATAN HS 4b
Barry Watts, 10/7/2020.
Climb into V shaped niche as for Violent Love, climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up dont call me.

Beagle Walls

NICK OF TIME HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack on the left.

CAPTAIN CODY S
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 11th October 2020.
The left hand crack on the buttress.

CLONE WARS S
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 11th October 2020.
The right hand crack on the buttress

THE JEDI SBarry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 11th October 2020.
Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.

180 VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020.
Right of FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.

DOG SHOW TRIALS VS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Take the crack right of PIT BULLS DAY OUT to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.

SLI NA SIDHE HS
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020.
Thin crack 2m’s left of WESTROPP’S WAY.

WESTROPP’S WAY D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020.
Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress

SLAB AND TICKLE S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020.
8m’s right of WESTROPP’S WAY and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

RUN OF THE FAIRIES Family Fun Variation:
Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly 12/9/2020
2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one

LAST CHANCE SALOON VD
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020.
An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m’s right of RACE FOR THE ARAS starting at the same level.

Fir Bolg VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020.
Takes the wide crack on the second tier above LAST CHANCE SALOON.

The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20 metres up a grassy boulder strewn slope.

PILLAR OF JOY S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.

BACK TO ARAN S
Paddy O’Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020.
Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.

Tír na Phúca VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Paddy O’Brien, 12th September 2020.
Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.

POWER SEIZURE VS 4c
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.
Start 3 m’s right of FRIGGERIFFICO and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

BLISTER HS
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020.
Climb the corner right of POWER SEIZURE, easy at first and thrutchy to finish.

THE ULSTERMAN VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020.
Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.

Slieve Rua

SELF ISOLATION D
Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O’Toole, 12th June 2020.
Wide crack on the far left.

SOCIAL DISTANCING VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack,

TIRIG VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.Start up COVID CRACK for 3m’s, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

COVID CRACK VDBarry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 12th June 2020.
The next obvious crack 3m’s right of SOCIAL DISTANCING,

C19-REUNION VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.
Bridge up the walls of the gully right of COVID CRACK.

THE IDES OF MARCH S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.
Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

MASKED UP VS 5a
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point).
4m’s right of THE IDES OF MARCH a thin crack starts 2 m’s above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4 m’s.

LOCKED IN VD
Barry Watts, Brandon O’Toole, Audrey O’Toole, 12th June 2020.
Wide crack 2m’s to the right MANDATORY QUARANTINE .

THE LOWLANDS S
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.
Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.

Owey Island Donegal

Selkie Wall.

Flutin’ Around *** E1 5b 30m Síle Daly, David Craig  20/9/2020

Best climbed when low tide is in the evening and in sunshine otherwise the start will be wet. From the lowest barnacle covered ledge, climb the middle crack of the fluted section on huge crystals of perfect, clean granite. Climb the flutes with easy (even when wet) hand and foot jams to a slanting, right trending, black corner.  Climb this to 2 thirds of its height. A wild move and hidden hold and crack gains the slab on the left. Climb directly above on steepening rock to the furry top where the pale green, Ramalina lichen hides two wonderful jugs.

Punters Pedestal E2 5c 30 m David Craig, Sile Daly 18/09/2020

Start from the second tallest child beneath twin cracks. Jam the excellent hand cracks until they diverge, follow the right-hand crack to come up the right hand side of a pedestal. Step left and follow a line diagonally left up through an overlap. Keep following a thin crack along the same line to reach blocky ledges and finish up these.

The Selkie’s Childer’ E2 5c 30m Síle Daly, David Craig  18/9/2020

From the highest step, climb the double cracks to the right of  ‘Punters Pedestal’. Superb, sustained jamming leads directly to the over hang. The crux requires delicate footwork to the left of the crack as it thins. Resist the temptation to swing over to the pedestal too soon (that steals too much of the other route).  Swing into the overhang with spectacular easy moves and climb straight to the top exiting via a shallow niche and right of the big overhanging block.

Selkie Buttress

The buttress to the right of the big corner.

Tir Hudi  E3 6a David Keogh, Anni Huovinen 20/09/2020

Start on the tidal ledge beneath a wide crack. Climb this and the flake above to enter a deep groove. Follow this easily to the cracked overhang. Surmount this with difficulty and move up until it is possible to make a step right into the black flakey crack system. Steady climbing leads to another overhang which is passed on the right.

Wild Atlantic Wonderland  E1 5c 40m Síle Daly, David Craig  19/9/2020

On the south west side of the buttress, start from a small, round, flat, ledge to the right of a huge black corner.  Climb up to a smaller, very black, sharp, steep, rightward leaning corner. Twist, turn and squirm up this (crux) on to easier territory and directly up the deep chimney above. From the top of the chimney an airy step left leads into a gradually steepening groove/corner. Climb this to a large flat ledge with a boulder and directly to the top on easy angled, rounded cracks.