2020 IMC New Routes Roundup

2020 IMC New Routes Roundup
Px Gg On The Fa Of Black Ball Head Grand Traverse
Topo Wide X

Deer Park Crag Co Dublin

Sin Binn (E1 5b)** 23m
The climb starts 3m to the right of the detached block of the snapper. Start by following the fine vertical crack up to the small ledges, just above head height. Move left by using sidepulls and a high step to the ledge on the small outside corner (crux). Using small holds above continue up the vertical face until better holds appear before gaining the grassy ledge, scramble up over easier ground to the top.
Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty June 2019

Rocky Valley Co Wicklow

Rockprow Ac X

Holly Days Diff.
Start 2m. R of Rocky ll. Climb over ledges to below a small Ash tree in the corner, move up to the holly tree (escape L possible Here). Follow the crack behind the holly tree to the top.
G. Moss 24/7/19.

The Merry Prowboy HS(4a).
Start as for Holly Days. Climb up over ledges and veer R to the bottom R of the prow. Climb the R edge with one difficult move.
G. Moss 24/7/19

Ballyryan Co Clare

THE DIVIL GETS AT YA HS

B Watts, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, G Angelini, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).

Start just right of ‘’Caoimhe’’, climb straight up the wall and tackle the short off width crack.

BALLYMEGASH HS

B Watts, G Angelini, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, K Kelly, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).

The obvious fissure right of ‘’’the divil’’ is easy to start , finish up the steep wide crack.

STREET RACER VD

B Watts, A O’Toole, 7/4/2019 (First recorded ascent)

Climb the broken rib 2m left of FROST IN MAY to the ledge and finish up the wide crack

Oughtdarra

DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE HS 4b Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

VIOLENT LOVE VS 4c Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019. Climb into the V shaped niche 4m’s right of Don’t call mee…., take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left and on the head wall will come in handy higher up.

WILDSTYLE HS 4b Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. Climb the overhanging corner above BB by clever use of the slab on the right.

SNOWY’S ESCAPADE VS 4b Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

TINTIN’S BIG ADVENTURE S Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE VS/HVS 4c Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. A harder companion piece to BANISH MISFORTUNE, climb the sustained groove 2m’s right of BANISH MISFORTUNE with holds and protection improving towards the top.

DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS HS 4b Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. Climb the easy groove right of BONZO, easy and loose to start delicate to finish.

STRAY DOGS HVS 5a Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. Take the only crack, 2-3m left of the pillar block. Move up the crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above. Satisfying.

FASTER THAN THE HOUND S Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall. Variation: Arete Finish S Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019. From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES HS 4b Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019. Thin crack line 3m’s right of WHERE BEAGLES DARE.

A

FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER VS 4c Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019. Climb the twin cracks 3m’s right of WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME.

Thumbnail

DOGS LIFE VD Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

PIT BULLS DAY OUT S Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. Take the right hand crack line to the top.

CELTIC TIGER HS Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Tom Van Rimsburgh, 26th May 2019. Start 1m left of STALL THE DIGGER, follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.

THE KID, HEH S Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 6/5/2019 Start 1m right of SWAMPY JOCKS. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

Stuart Kennedy On I Wanna Be Adored. E B..jpg X

I WANNA BE ADORED 18m E1 5b Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019 Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall – the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

Murroughkilly Co Clare

WAKHAN CORRIDOR HS Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 12/5/2019. Above a niche is a groove leading to a left-facing corner. Continue up, trending right, following a disjointed crack-line. Check loose holds.

RUSSIAN ROULETTE E1 5a Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 12/5/2019. Halfway along the escarpment, adjacent to a wide, left-facing chimney, is a crack line. Follow this crack to a stance below a bulging wall. Continue to the top. Sustained, with good protection.

Scailp Na Seisri Co Clare

Scailp Top End

The divil and all 15m D Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Start as for Dr Teeth and then traverse for 10m around the overhanging prow, finish easily up leftwards.

Topcat 8m S Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Climb the wide overhanging cracks.

Dr Teeth and the Electric Mayhem 10m VD Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/9/2019. The next crack to the right of Benn Act.

Benn Act 7m D Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Climb the wall and crack 3m right of the corner, start off the lower level.

Lundy at the Gate 8m VD Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Climb the corner right of That’s What She Said.

Intergalactic Vice 8m D Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Takes the prow left of That’s What She Said starting on the right.

Enya plays the bongos 8m S Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 20th October 2019. Left of Intergalactic Vice there is a cracked wall, this takes the left hand side of the wall finishing up a thin vertical crack, the crux is at the top but is well protected.

Slieve Rua Co Clare

DIVIDE AND CONQUER 10m VD Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019. 4m’s left of BOFEY QUINN’S COULOIR there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

Black Ball Head Co Cork


Black Ball Head Grand Traverse
 140m VDiff

G. Galligan, A. O’Reilly, 14/09/2019.

An enjoyable grand tour of the Head, linking Black Sabbath and Ecstasy Walls.

1. 35m. Starts at the left-hand end of Black Sabbath wall, at the adjacent wall (Black Sabbath Slab). Scramble up the ramp to belay at a height aligned approximately midway up Black Sabbath wall. Move forward off the ramp to attain the wall. Continue rightwards, taking the series of short horizontal crack lines to gain the seaward corner. Belay.

2. 25m. Continue around the corner, moving along the prominent ledge, again at approximately mid-height of the Head wall, to reach a wide shelf at the apex of the Head. Here the rock colour changes from black to grey.

3. 45m. Maintain the same level, climbing delicately across ledges to move above and around the recessed corner. Step 3m higher to continue crossing Ecstasy wall, keeping mid-height. Belay on a short triangular spike at the base of a high, outward-aspect corner.

4. 35m. Continue traversing for approximately 15m before a tapering descent to easy slabs approaching the base of Ecstasy descent gully.