It is hoped that these pages will inspire and encourage new challenges and new horizons in the new year.
2021 was another disappointing year for international climbing and mountaineering but there was a lot of new routing activity by IMC members and their pals.
Wicklow
Cnoch na nGabhar (Knocknagower) Rocky Valley
11. Easy Pickings. HVS 5a
B. Crampton, T. Charnecki, 16/05/2021.
The groove and twin cracks 2m
right of Kilmac Macaque. The climbing is interesting and protection is adequate, but the rock quality is unfortunately less than perfect.
12. Kilmac Macaque. E2 5b
T. Charnecki, B. Crampton, 14/05/2021.
A serious route 1m right of Stockholm Syndrome. Head straight up to the floating block (the macaque) at 2/3 height. Quietly find the last decent gear behind the macaque taking care not to wake him. Run it out up the steep terrain trending slightly right.
13. Stockholm Syndrome. E2 5b **
T. Charnecki, B. Crampton, (both led) 01/05/2021.
This route tackles the main weakness through the obvious steep ground in the middle of the main face. Sustained from start to finish with excellent gear placements throughout. Climb up to and then follow the rightward trending crack. Exciting moves then lead up and left through the overhanging bulge. Continue through more steep ground above to the ledge.
14. Stockholm/Sniffers. E1 5a/5b**
T. Charnecki, B. Crampton, (both led) 16/05/2021.
A hybrid of The Sniffers and Stockholm Syndrome. Not really an independent route, as there is little original climbing, but included as nevertheless provides a fantastic, exciting and well protected pitch with a thrilling finish, at a grade otherwise not catered for at the crag. Climb Stockholm Syndrome up until the start of the rightward trending crack. Head diagonally up and left through steep ground until the niche of The Sniffers is attained. Continue up The Sniffers.
15. The Sniffers. HVS 5a*
B. Crampton, T. Charnecki, 09/05/2021.
Start 3m to the left of Stockholm Syndrome. Climb the obvious rightward trending crack until you reach a niche. Airy and exciting moves lead up above the niche through the middle of the upper wall. Good gear placements throughout.
Carrick Mountain
KNUCKLEBALL*** 13m E2(5c).
T. Charnecki, B. Crampton, 17/6/2021.
Start directly below the crack splitting the roof at it’s widest point. Stepping off the boulder, make a move to gain the cosy nook shared by NRG. From the perch find excellent gear and then commit to the roof crack, topping out onto good holds where the crack continues.
Helvick Head Waterford
The Helvick Thrust VS 12m
Colm Peppard, Gerry Galligan, 10 Aug 2021.
Takes a line 1m to the left of the sea arch corner, directly to the top. Good protection when needed
Lèse-Majesté S 12m
Gerry Galligan, Colm Peppard, 10 Aug 2021.
Takes the thin crack 2m to the left of the sea arch corner, directly to the top.
Helvick Head N/E
Approach. Leave the N25 S of Dungarvan and follow the R674 to Helvick Harbour. From the car park at the harbour walk back to a junction and turn L onto the higher road. Walk past the obelisk and the row of cottages, turn R at the two story house and continue uphill to a T junction. Turn L here and follow this lane to where it ends, with a wide, unlocked gate into a field on the R. (5 min). Go up the steep hill keeping the furze on your L, to reach the summit and remains of a former lookout post.. From here locate the start of a narrow path descending steeply through the furze towards a flat white rock (An Carraig Bán) at the top of the cliffs. 15 to 20 minutes.
The area is sheltered and sunny, offering all year round climbing but there is some seepage after heavy rain. The climbs are on a short stretch of sea cliffs sandwiched between two inlets. Both of these inlets are important nesting areas and must be avoided.
It is hoped that the topos will help in identifying the routes and all gradings should be regarded as provisional.
The climbs are described from L to R , (S to N) when facing the rock and the first routes are reached by traversing S above the top of the climbs along steep grassy slopes, to a point above The Arch (An Droichead).
The foot of the first batch of climbs is gained by abseiling from a block just N of The Arch (An Droichead), or by scrambling S across it and back climbing down slabs and a final steep section.
1 Tonn Clíodhna Diff
Gerry Moss, 24/8/21.
From a ledge on the S side of the narrow inlet below the seaward face of An Droichead, climb a short, steep section and continue more easily up the slabs to a belay.
2 Rancás HVS 5a
Petrina Concannon, Gerry Moss, 9/8/21.
This route climbs the L (S) side of the seaward face of An Droichead. Start just L (S) of An Droichead, finishing up a short, narrow chimney.
3 Téada Damháin Alla E1
Sile Daly, Gerry Moss, 23/9/21.
This climb takes the N edge of An Droichead, on the seaward face.
4 Ceól na Mara V. Diff
Petrina Concannon, Gerry Moss, 9/8/21.
Start from a ledge on the N side of the narrow inlet below the seaward face of An Droichead. Gain and climb the obvious sloping ramp running up just N of An Droichead.
5 Amhrán na Farraige V.Diff
Gerry Moss, 24/8/21.
Start as for Ceól na Mara.. Climb diagonally R (N) to gain the crest of the arete, which is followed to the top.
6 Ildáthach M. Severe
Gerry Moss, 12/8/21.
Start as for Ceól na Mara. Climb diagonally R (N) to gain the arete and continue scrambling N above the high tide mark for a few m to the foot of a dark, narrow, stepped slab which is streaked with white quartzite. Climb the slab to the top.
7 Simléar Cam S
Gerry Moss, 12/8/21.
Start as for Ceól na Mara. Climb diagonally R (N) to gain the crest of the arete. Scramble N above the high tide mark, passing Ildáthach, to the foot of an easy angled chimney slanting up R on its lower section and bending L on the upper half. Climb the chimney.
8 Clúid HVS
Sile Daly, Gerry Moss, 24/8/21.
Start as for Ceól na Mara.. Scramble N above the high water mark, passing Ildáthach to the foot of a narrow, steep S facing chimney, which is often damp in the lower section. Climb the chimney.
The next 4 climbs are just S of an area of red sandstone and the foot of the climbs is reached by abseiling or scrambling down from a point halfway between An Carraig Bán and An Droichead (see topo).
9 GG2 VS 4b.
Gerry Galligan, Gerry Moss, 26/9/20.
Climb the wide, vertical crack.
10 GG1 HS 4a/b
Gerry Galligan, Gerry Moss, 26/9/20.
Start almost 2m R (N) of GG2 and climb directly to the top.
11 Taoide Lán M. Severe
Gerry Moss, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/20.
12 Tús Maith .Diff
Gerry Moss, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/20.
Start just R (N) of Taoide Lán at the foot of a short corner. Climb the corner and the slab above tending R.
The foot of the next batch of climbs is reached by scrambling or abseiling down an easy-angled slab (Bealach Éasca) a few m. S of An Carraig Bán. From the foot of the slab scramble around L (S) on ledges to a point 4m S of the corner (see topo).
13 Tar Éis an tSnámh VD
John Duignan, Aine O’Reilly, 22/6/2021.
Climb over ledges to the top.
14 Cuairt an tÚachtaráin Diff.
Aine O’Reilly, John Duignan, 22/6/2021.
This route takes a line just over 1m L (S) of the corner crack.
15 Lag Mara HS
Gerry Moss,13/8/21.
Climb the corner crack.
16 Húrla Hárla VS 4c
Gerry Moss,13/8/21.
Start 4m down from the corner, on a narrow ledge above the high water mark, below the steep wall.. Climb diagonally L then straight up the wall..
17 Bealach Éascha Diff.
Barry Denton, Gerry Moss, 22/6/21.
The easy-angled slab mentioned above.
18 An Mhaighdean Mhara E1 5b
Sile Daly, Gerry Moss, 22/6/21.
Start at the bottom R of the easy-angled slab. Climb the steep wall.
19 An Bhearna Bhaoil HVS 5a
Sile Daly, Gerry Moss, 24/9/21.
Start. From the bottom R of the easy-angled slab traverse R (N) through the gap to the foot of the pinnacle. Climb the pinnacle and, from the top, step across onto the face and finish up this.
The next two climbs are on the buttress below and N of An Carraig Bán. Access is by abseil.
20 Éalú HVS 5a
Sile. Daly, Gerry.Moss, 24/9/21.
This climb follows a line up the L (S) side of the face.
21 Príosúnaigh HS 4a
Sile Daly, Gerry Moss, 24/9/21.
This climb follows a line up the R (N) side of the face.
Black Ball Head Cork
Black Sabbath Wall
Harrington’s Catch 45m S
Steven Hanney, Gerry Galligan, 31/07/2021.
Follows the arete directly, 2m right of ‘Rack ’em up’. A good companion route to the same.
Ecstasy Wall
2 U-31 HVS
Gerry Galligan, Steven Hanney, (alt leads) 1 Aug 2021.
Two short minefields!
1) 7m Starts on the large and low tidal shelf at the far left-hand end of the Head, i.e. at its apex point – the bow. On the ocean-side, two grooves split the short wall. Take the left groove to gain the wide ledge.
2) Move up the shallow grooved-wall and left-facing corner, 2m right of ‘The Rolling Wave’. Difficult moves to gain a block-ledge (crux). Continue up the short cracked wall to finish.
Ecstasy Wall Traverse (HS) 66m
Paddy O’Brien, Christina.Tan, (alt leads) 1/08/2021.
1) 18m S. Start on large triangular ledge at the apex of the Head (the Bow). Traverse rightwards using an undercut, and belay after crossing the line of Donkey Dharma.
2) 18m VD. Continue traversing rightwards, moving slightly up and then slightly down to an awkward belay stance.
3) 15m HS. At this point cease traversing and climb towards the top of the face. Move rightwards around a bulge and then up an obvious 4m corner (crux). Exit the corner and move up, trending rightwards to a good belay ledge.
4) 15m D. From the belay move up and rightwards on good holds to a good belay ledge.
Variation finish: 3a. 30m VD. Continue traversing right for approximately 15m before a tapering descent to easy slabs approaching the base of Ecstasy abseil /descent gully.
Burren Co Clare
Oughtdarra
Leacht na nAmadan
LITTLE RED CORVETTE HS
Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O’Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.
Climb the slabby wall left of HUSAVIK finishing up the crack in the overhang.
ANCHORMAN HS
Audrey O Toole, David Brosnan, Barry Watts,1st May 2021.
Climb the wall and thin crackline 1.5m right of of HUSAVIK to the top.
MIDNIGHT GROOVER VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th June 2021.
Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.
BIGOTS IN BUDAPEST VD
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th June 2021.
Climb the crack right of CHASING CARS, easy to start and difficulty increasing with height.
Finish at the mid way ledge or up the final groove of CHASING CARS.
99 HS 4b
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th June 2021.
So called because it ”had” a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4m right of CHASING CARS to the halfway ledge. Climb the face 2m right of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.
CITY OF ASHES HS 4b
Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 5th June 2021.
Right of MAYA’S CHIMNEY there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left,
CITY OF BONES HS 4b
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 5th June 2021.
Take the crack and juggy wall just right of CITY OF ASHES to the halfway ledge, similarly finish up the crack line right of CITY OF ASHES.
SHADOW HUNTERS 25m S
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 1st May 2021.
Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.
GRISHA 25m S
Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 12th June 2021.
10m right of SHADOW HUNTERS there is a niche 3m above the ground, climb the wall right of this to the grassy mid way ledge, finish up a left facing corner on the left.
ROIGHT SAYS FIACHRA D
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 13th June 2021.
Start just right of the wide central crack and follow a slabby line around the right of the block and up leftwards to the top.
CATTLE CRUSH HS 4b
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, (alt leads) 6th June 2021.
A well protected fun outing.
1 10m VD 100m right of Brandon’s Block there is a funnel/gully, climb the right hand side to the grassy ledge.
2 14m HS Traverse 15m left on the grass ledge and climb a vertical thin crack line to a ledge, either finish up the cracked slab at HS or finish up the easy chute/gully in the centre, this later finish reduces the overall grade to S..
MOHER MIST VS 5a
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, (ground up with rests)13th June 2021.
10m right of CATTLE CRUSH the mid way ledge decreases in size to 0.5 m wide and the escarpment becomes more vertical and continuous. Climb the first faint crackline to the top.
CLOSE CONTACT VS 5a
Barry Watts, Brandon O’Toole, Audrey O’Toole, 26th May 2021.
5m right and uphill of DOG SHOW TRIALS there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this.
DELTA VARIANT S
Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, Barry Watts, 26th May 2021.
Climb the alcove right of CLOSE CONTACT.
SICKLE SWEEP HS 4b
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 26th May 2021.
5m right of WESTROPP’S WAY there is a cave in the cliff at 5 m, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m and climb diagonally rightwards to the top.
Murroughkilly
Afghan Walls
HOMO SOVIETICUS HVS 5a
Gerry Galligan. Barry Watts, 4/9/2021
Start just left of FLAKE RATTLE AND ROAR, climb the steep wide crack to a grassy ledge, continue up the groove above (crux).
THE FALL OF KABUL HS 4b
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/9/2021.
Start at the obvious crack below and right of KANDAHAR, climb this to a grassy ledge and follow the leftward trending line to finish as for KANDAHAR.
PASHTUN BLOOD FEUD HS 4b
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/9/2021.
20m right of RUSSIAN ROULETTE there is an alcove, climb the right hand groove in the alcove
Upper Tier
WHERE’S THE LIFEGUARD? S
Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/9/2021.
Start 2m left of TWO TRICK PONY, climb the slab diagonally rightwards to gain the grassy ledge as for TTP, traverse left for 3m and climb the short wide crack to another ledge, finish up the slabby rib above.
Slieve Rua
Lower Buttress
WINTER LOCKDOWN S
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 15th April 2021.
Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.
CANADA CRACK HS
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 15th April 2021.
Climb the groove right of THE IDES OF MARCH and finish up the right slanting crack.
MANDATORY QUARANTINE VD
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 15th April 2021.
Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above,
SHOTS FOR ALL VD
Barry Watts, Brandon O’Toole, Audrey O’Toole, 15th April 2021.
Climb the crack 1m right of LOCKED IN to ledge, finish up crack to the left.
HAZEL’S MAZE S
Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O’Toole, 15th April 2021.
Climb the crack 1m right of SHOTS FOR ALL to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.
MAIRE RUA S
Barry Watts, Brandon O’Toole, Audrey O’Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, 23rd April 2021.
Climb the clean slab left of EVENING LIGHT to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.
CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN HS
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 23rd April 2021.
3m right of the THE LOWLANDS there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.
GRETTAS STRUGGLE VS 5a
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.
2m right of CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.
Upper Buttress
WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK HS
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22nd April 2021.
Climb the pocketed slab left of Trust the fairies.
GO BIG OR GO HOME HS
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021.
Climb the cracked wall between Fairy Flakes and Airy Fairy,
ASTRAL VOYAGER HS
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021.
Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.
JITTERY JOHNSTON S
Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O’Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg,16th April 2021.
Climb the recess 1m right of ASTRAL VOYAGER
PFIZER DRIVER S
Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg,16th April 2021.
Climb the line 2m right of JITTERY JOHNSTON to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.
CAT SCRAPES S
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg,16th April 2021.
Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.
EXPLODING KITTENS S
Barry Watts, Brandon O’Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O’Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.
Climb the protruding block right of CAT SCRAPES to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.
ROCKALANCHE 10m HS
Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.
Right of DIVIDE AND CONQUER there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.
THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE S
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22nd April 2021.
Climb the corner right of SAMBA BY THE RIVER GORT and finish up the slabby wall.
Turloughmore (Glencolumbkille)-An Glann
One HS 4b
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 16th May 2021.
The first right ward facing corner/ramp with a steep finish.
Yew Too HS 4b
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 16th May 2021.
Start below a set of Yew trees, climb steeply up the right facing corner, hand traverse left around the base of the trees to an easier finish.
Cupán Bán VS 4c
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 16th May 2021.
The right facing corner a little right of Yew Too.
All I want is Yew S
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 16th May 2021.
Climb the rightward trending ramp 4m right of Cupán Bán .
Clodagh HS 4b
Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 8th May 2021.
Start in the next bay right of All I want is Yew. Climb the cracked wall 2m right of the vegetated corner, finish leftwards over ledges.
Rattling Bum S
Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 2nd May 2021.
On the right side of the bay there is a chimney, climb the wall 3m right of this chimney to a ledge, finish up the cracked wall above.
Errisbeg Galway
Holy Moly Buttress
Holy Moly Slabs 25m S
Barry Watts, Brandon O’Tooole, Audrey O’Toole, 29th May 2021.
Climb the slabby ridge on the right of the buttress to a ledge avoiding easier ground on the right at times, continue up the slabs to a pointed summit on the left.
Mayo
Iorras – Ceann an Eannaigh
1 Gan ainm 20m
William Blanchfield, Brian Walker, 18/07/21.
2 Gan ainm 20m
William Blanchfield, Brian Walker, 18/07/21.
3 Barr Bán 20m VD
Paddy O Brien, Christina Tan, 15/07/21.
Start at highest point of undercut, continue straight up tending right to continue up the white arête.
4 Gan ainm 20m
Gerry Galligan, Adele Fox, 18/07/21.
5 An Chéad Chúinne 20m VD
Brian Walker, William Blanchfield, 15/07/21.
6 Ascal na Lúb 20m VD
Dave Walsh, Con O’Shea, 15/07/21.
7 Idir an Phéire 20m VD
Con O’Shea, David Walsh, 15/07/21.
8 Laethanta Sona 20m VD
Christina Tan, Paddy O Brien, 15/07/21.
Climb twin curved cracks, cross the deep diagonal crack and up diagonally left to top of white arête.
9 Bogha Báistí 20m VS 4c
Paddy O Brien, Christina Tan, 15/07/21.
Start near high point of deep undercut, move up right of small overhang, follow a weak crack line diagonally right, crux at 2/3 moving right at small stepped-out rock.
10 Ag Siúl an Clár 15m S
Brian Walker, William Blanchfield, 15/07/21.
11 Gloine Dubh 15m HS
Paddy O Brien, Christina Tan, 18/07/21.
Start up thin crack on sloping wall to overhang, continue right under overhang until it runs out, continue up arête.
12 Amach As 15m
Con O’Shea, David Walsh, 15/07/21.
13 An Ghloine Scaradh 15m S
Colm Peppard, Paddy O Brien, 18/07/21.
14 Gan ainm 15m
Gerry Galligan, Adele Fox, 18/07/21.
15 S(in)é 15m D
Dave Walsh, Sé O Hanlon, 18/07/21.
Iorras – Gleann Lára
An Uaich Bhuí – Aill Thuaidh
An Éadan ar Clé
Getting there
Starting from American Street in Béal an Mhuirhead turn left onto R313. Drive along the strand and take the first turn right. Follow this to a church on the left side and 300m after this take the road that veers off left. Follow to the end of this road where there is room to park. This is a point on the Wild Atlantic Way so park considerately. The climbs are a short walk away across open ground.
The rock is a foliated gneiss with black dolerite intrusions.
This is a west-facing sea cliff (An Éadan Thiar) about 35m high divided by two enormous vertical fault-lines or chasms into three distinct buttresses as shown above and a south-facing sea cliff (The Petrified Wave).
Access to the climbing is by a descending ramp to the left for the Éadan ar Clé and Éadan Lárach. The ramp is utterly impassable as between the Éadan Lárach and the Éadan ar Dheis. Abseiling is relevant where some may prefer to leave a fixed abseil in position to facilitate (for instance) multiple parties accessing multiple climbs on the Éadan Lárach, in preference to the walk around.
Base Camp is a matter of choice, but the ramp on Éadan ar Clé, just where the other Buttresses come into view, has become popular.
All directions are given as though looking at the rock from seaward.
The rock is foliated gneiss.
1 Gran Gris Traverse S 25m *
Gerry Galligan, Adele Fox, 17/07/2021.
Starts at the left-hand end of the west facing wall, near the top of the descent ramp, taking a rising, right-ward trending fault line. Follow this line across the wall, left to right. A ledge with a partially broken section of lighter-toned wall denotes midway. Delicate moves to continue, before passing two small corner sections to finish on the ramp, approximately three-quarters of the wall across.
2 Ciervo Volante VDiff 25m
Gerry Galligan, Adele Fox, 17/07/2021.
Takes a direct line 3m from the right-hand end of the wall. Climb up to the wide left-trending ledge. Continue on good features and holds to the top. Good protection.
3 Corner Craic. HS 4b 20m
Brian Walker, William Blanchfield, 17/07/2021.
Start at the cracked left facing corner. Climb the corner with difficulty to gain the slab above. Follow this on good holds to the top.
4 Shipwreck Scramble V. Diff. 20m
Colm Peppard, David Walsh, 17/07/2021.
Scramble with caution from the foot of the descent ramp around to the south facing part of the cliff and almost immediately lies a prominent left facing corner, above which a crack steeply accesses another even more prominent left facing corner above. Crux is the crack between the two corners. Nice sitting belay to start. Finishes at Base Camp.
An Éadan Lárach
Leithinis an Mhuirthead (the Mullet Peninsula)—also known as an Mhuirthead ( the Mullet) —is a peninsula in the barony of Iorras (Erris) in the Gaelteacht in County Mayo. It consists of a large promontory connected to the mainland at Béal an Mhuirthead (Belmullet) by a narrow isthmus.
Ceann an Eannaigh (Annagh Head) is due west of Béal an Mhuirthead. It gets its name from the nearby marsh which is a nature reserve.
5 Céim suas Severe.
Brian Walker, William Blanchfield, 29/08/2021.
Start 2m left of an arched recess. Gain the overlap at its lowest point. Climb the slab above to a recess, follow this to the top.
6 Céim ar Chlé HS (4b, 4a)
Brian Walker, William Blanchfield, (Alt. Leads) 28/08/2021.
Climb the crack in the right corner of the arched recess to its roof, and escape left onto the slab above. Follow the fault line directly to the terrace. 2.Climb the obvious thin crack to a short chimney and climb this to the top.
7 San Nicolás VS (4c, 4b) 30m ***
Gerry Galligan, David Walsh, 29/08/2021.
1. Start just right of the recessed arch. Massive thread belay to begin. Climb the outside arête, which trends leftwards, making delicate moves to gain the wide ledge above.
2. At a shallow niche, climb the crack which links to another foot-niche. Then continue up the wall directly to the top, utilising the cracks en route.
8 Santiago HS 4b 30m **
G. Galligan, D. Walsh, 28/08/2021.
Starts in the centre of the wall, 3m left of the Black Corner. Climb the thin cracks to gain the equivalent level of the wide ledge above. Avoiding the wide ledge, move up the short broken wall to gain the prominent triangular alcove. Climb out of the alcove, taking the crack above to finish.
9 Black Corner HS 4c
Paddy O’Brien, Christina Tan, 17/07/2021.
Climb the corner, exiting right at top, then move up and left to good belay ledges and continue to top.
10 No details
11 Amach Arais Severe.
Brian Walker, Gerry Galligan, 30/08/2021.
Start immediately right of Black Corner directly below the obvious overhung chimney in the Left Bulge high above. Climb directly to the chimney and through this on good jugs.
12 Indíreach. V. Diff.
David Walsh, Gerry Galligan, 28/08/2021.
Start in short double corner (with dinky thread belay) 5m right of Black Corner, then jink right and left up cracks to finish up on the right side of the Left Bulge.
13 Díreach. Mild Severe.
David Walsh, Gerry Galligan, 29/08/2021.
Ascend middle of slab right of short double corner, directly under prominent square cut breach in the Right Bulge above, to gain a ledge with a massive spike belay. Gain the start of the right hand diagonal crack to approach (crux) the Right Bulge and swarm airily through the overhang.
14 No details
15 Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar V. Diff
David Walsh, Gerry Galligan, 30/08/2021.
Climb the right hand edge of the face. Technically easy but psychologically challenging. Hardest move is to make a start – ascend the crack corner which is narrow at first, and as it widens, the cautious may well keep somewhat left while thrill seekers might stick right. Belay on huge airy block.
16 Claudine MS 22m **
Gerry Galligan, Brian Walker, 30/08/2021.
From near the end of the ramp abseil down a crack to a ledge above the sea. Climb back up the crack. Excellent protection throughout.
Owey Island Donegal
With a Faery hand in hand E3 6a ***
Sile Daly, David Craig, 24/07/21.
A complex route that winds its way up the face involving jamming, delicate foot work and intricate rope work. Double ropes an absolute necessity. Start just right of Flutin’ around in the rusty coloured niche where the bottom of the flutes have been eroded by the sea. Climb the twin cracks above until they begin to peter out and move left into a single crack that goes straight up to some dinnerplate size right facing flakes. Climb directly up to a stance on the top flake. Teeter horizontally left via a good foothold into the bottom of the slanting corner of Flutin’ around. Climb diagonally right onto a black, square slab. Climb directly up the face to a small ledge (from here a long reach right allows a blind cam placement). Move delicately left to gain cracks in Flutin’ around and up to the bottom of the slanting roof. Gather your wits and tiptoe up below the roof (crux) to better holds and stances. Finish up huge, easy flakes.
The Púca’s Predicament HVS 5a 50m *
David Craig, Sile Daly, 24/7/2021.
Follow the corner/groove to the right of the start of Wild Atlantic Wonderland. Climb this groove to gain some interesting flakes on its left hand side (crux) and a good ledge above. Traverse leftwards to a large sloping ledge and follow a leftward trending crack system to reach easy ledges to the top.