2022 IMC New Routes Roundup

2022 IMC New Routes Roundup

Long soaring alpine aretes are all well and good while Costa crimp fests are the cure for many a climbers winter blues. There is still a wealth of varied climbing venues awaiting the visitor in Ireland and further afield. Herein lie details of new routes and crag explored and unearthed in 2022 by IMC members and pals.

Great Sugar Loaf Wicklow

Sugar LumpLump E1 5b

Tim Charnecki, Barney Crampton, 4/6/2022.
Start in the area of darker rock, under the middle of the roof. Head up easily to the thin crack (micro cams) splitting the roof where the rock quality improves. Go up and right toward the obvious good protection that continues in the cracks above. From the solid finger locks go left and up for the jug. Easier terrain from here, continue to the top of the crag, enjoying the upper face. A quality route.

Sheeps Head Co Cork

Trá Ruaim Grey Wall

1a. Wooly Minded Diff

Gerry Moss, Cathy McGovern, 10/7/2022.

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b. Cathy D

Cathy McGovern, Gerry Moss, 10/7/2022.

Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

1c Wool Gathering. VD

Gerry Moss, Cathy McGovern,10/7/2022.

Start below the ramp and R of Ursula’s Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

Black Ball Head Ecstasy Wall

6a Demerera 35m VS 4c
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 26/8/2022.
Takes the largest left-facing corner midway along the wall.  Initial easy slabs give way to steeper ground at the base of the corner.  Move directly up the corner, negotiating overlaps on the right-hand side.

6b Dolphins At Play VS 4b
Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 26/8/2022.
Follows the left-facing corner 1m right of Demerera, 1m left of Dharmachakra.  Start as for Demerera.  Climb directly up the slabs and into the corner.  Good holds throughout.  Halfway up, step left around an overlap to face a short wall with a vertical crack.  Overcome same (crux).

Burren Co Clare

Ceann Capaill

THUNDER RUN S

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Paolo Chavez, 8th October 2022.

Start 2m left of CINDERELLA SEARCH, climb diagonally leftwards to a ledge, a final pull up on good holds brings you to a blocky finish.

PUTINS REVENGE HS

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Paolo Chavez, 8th October 2022.

Takes the line between Mussels About and Blue Nose. Start up the vertical crack and face just right of Mussels About, climb past two ledges to finish up the blunt arete.

Ballynahown

CLUB MED VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 11th August 2022.

Start 4m left of AN CATHACH on a ledge, climb the fist crack to a higher ledge, traverse left across broken ground to the pinnacle, climb the cracked wall at the back of the pinnacle to the top.

CLARE ROCKET VS 4c

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 11th August 2022.

This climb takes the blunt arete 3m right of CRANNOG. Climb the left hand side (steeply at first) and traverse right at the bulge to finish up the cracked wall above.

DOWN IN THE BOOM DOCKS S

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 11th August 2022.

Start at the left facing corner in the right hand side of the recess right of CLARE ROCKET. Climb to the overhang, traverse left on the ledge below the overhang (awkward), move up right to climb the wide crack above the overhang.

Oughtdarra

Gale Buttress

About 150m left or North of Northern Buttress there is a small steep outcrop above a hollow bowl type feature in the ground below.

WEATHER GIRLS VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022.

Climbs the corner on the left of the buttress.

ATLANTIC FRONT HS

Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 12th June 2022.

Climb the cracks 2m right of WG making a brief excursion over to the sloping ledge on the left to gain the final finish crack.

ISOBAR S

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022.

There is an arrow head feature (inverted v) on the front wall of the buttress, this climb takes a rightwards traverse of the crag from it’s base. Climb the left hand ramp to it’s top, move down and rightwards to avoid a dubious block on the right, climb up to the grassy ledge and move rightwards to it’s end, take a step up and finish rightwards over broken ground.

Northern Buttress

Direct Start; THE SLAB BRIDGE START HS
Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022.
Where the dry stone wall meets the leaning pillar climb the slab directly to the ledge and finish as for THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING.

FLOWER POWER WALL S
Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022.
Start as for BECKONING CRACK to the ledge. Finish up the cracked wall and corner in front of you.

WHERE IS THE GENTIAN S
Ingolf Kühn (solo), 15th April 2022.
Climb the wall 1m left of GRACEFUL ELEPHANT to a ledge, difficulty decreases thereafter.

ROCKET MAN 16m HS 4b
Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017.
8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protruding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to a ledge and finish left of a small overhang at head height.

Variation: THE ARMSTRONG FINISH HS Conor Warner, Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 15th April 2022. At the ledge finish up the cracked wall right of the small overhang at head height.

Leacht na nAmadan

CITY OF GLASS 20m HS 4b

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2022.

Climb the arete 1m right of SHADOW HUNTERS to the wide grassy ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a narrower ledge, climb up and over a 3m step and take a belay past a low dry stone wall, grade is lowered to S if only the lower arete is climbed to the grassy ledge.

JAVELIN * 16m VS 4c

Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2022.

Nice varied wall climbing. Start 20m right of RSF and below a left facing corner at the top of the cliff.

Climb a steep cleaned wall for 3m to a wide grassy ledge. Climb for 7m past cleaned cracks and a thread to reach a higher ledge, finish up the 6m corner.

IRPIN HS

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 5th March 2022.

Start just left of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb cracked wall 1m to the right.

CHERNIHIV HS

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 5th March 2022.

Start just right of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb crack 2m to the right.

SUMY HS

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 5th March 2022.

Climb crack 3m tight of CHERNIHIV to the ledge, finish up the wall and crack above.

KHARKIV HS

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 5th March 2022.

Climb the crack left of NICK OF TIME to the ledge, finish up the thin crack and wall just left of NOT.

KHERSON HS

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022.

Take the leftward sloping crack just right of NICK OF TIME to the ledge. Climb the groove to the top.

BONZI 12m D

Conor Warner, Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 24th April 2022.

Climb the groove left of BONZO to the grassy ledge, climb the crack directly beside and above the left facing corner to the top.

MARIUPOL 11m VD
Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th March 2022.

Climb the corner formed by the left side of the big block and finish directly up the wall above.

KYIV 10m HS

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022.

Climb the cracked rib between 180 and DOGS LIFE.

Slieve Rua

SUSAN HS

Paddy O’Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.

Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.

CLEAN SLAB 10m D
David Walsh, Paddy O’Brien, 4/8/2022.

A few metres to the right of The Great Floor Food Adventure, there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

PATRICK 10m S

Paddy O’Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.

Climb the rib immediately right of CS.

Turloughmore (Glencolumbkille)

Rift’s End Crag

Far from Iona VS

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 28th May 2022.

Packs a number of interesting and varied moves. Climb the first right facing corner strenuously to a ledge, gain a good foothold on the arete 2m to the left and using this delicately gain a steep triangular slab above and to the left. From the left side of this slab climb over a bulge to another higher ledge. Finish up the short wall to the top.

Postman HS

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 28th May 2022.

Takes the right facing corner 3m right of Far from Iona with a steep finish, The letter box type slots on the final left hand wall give a great morale boost.

Holly Crack VS

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 28th May 2022.

Takes the fist crack 3m right of Postman.

Above the Rift HS

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 28th May 2022.

10m right of Holly Crack there is a scruffy bay, Climb the steep wall on the right of the bay leftwards to a ledge (shadow) and finish up and leftwards to the top of the block (the next shadow),finish up the slab above.

An Glann

Achtung Lady VS 4c

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2nd May 2022.

The eye catching right ward facing corner half way along the cliff.

With or without yew HS 4b

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2nd May 2022.

Crack 2m left of R21 Yew Too finish as for Yew Too.

Desire HS 4b

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2nd May 2022.

Climb the cracked wall 1m right of the corner (Cupán Bán) to the shrubbery, traverse right along the foot ledge and finish on good clean holds.

Run your Wild Horses HS 4b

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 30th July 2022.

The wide gully.

Mysterious ways HS 4b

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2nd May 2022.

The right facing corner with a wide crack 2m right of Run your Wild Horses.

Clare Island Co Mayo

Scardóg  L673-841

From The Gate, while keeping the  fence on your right, follow it down and left for about 300m. Cross the fence at this point and go down over rock until Scardóg, a clean, black, NW facing 20m slab, comes into view.  Scramble down to the bottom of either side of the slab.  The climbs are described L to R facing the rock.

The first 3 climbs start from the bottom L of the slab, the remaining 3 from the bottom R.

The Thrift V. Diff

David Walsh,  Andrea Spinu, Tim Nairn, 3/6/2022.

Left of the main slab is a narrower slab, with a left facing corner with a crack on its right, and another crack 2m to its left.

Start. From the same stance as for Car Rose, Climb between the two cracks.

Car Rose HS

Paddy O’Brien,  Gerry Moss, 3/6/2022.

From a stance, at the bottom L of the slab move up R and climb the steep left facing blocky corner that borders the left edge of the slab.

Black Magic S

Gerry Moss., Paddy O’Brien, 23/6/2022.

Start at the bottom L of the slab. Travers delicately and diagonally R for 5m to reach a crack. Climb this to the top.

The next 3 climbs start from a ledge at the bottom R of the slab

The Squeezed Middle V. Diff

Gerry Moss. David Walsh, Paddy O’Brien, 23/6/2022.

Start at the bottom R of the slab. Traverse horizontally L crossing the lines of First Crack and Any Crack?  to reach a continuous crack near the centre of the slab.. Follow this to the top.

Any crack?  V. Diff

David Walsh, Paddy O’ Brien, Gerry Moss, 3/6/2022.

Start as for First Crack Traverse 3m  left, and climb the bottom to top crack on left of quartzite markings.

First Crack V. Diff

Paddy O’Brien, Gerry Moss, 3/6/2022.

Step left around the corner on the extreme right of the slab and climb the bottom to top crack immediately above.

Arch Wall West L665-842

Immediately W of the Arch, between it and a fence, lies a smooth wall, only the E side of which is developed because of birds nesting to the W.  Climbs are described L to R, and all start on a high-water platform reached by abseil.

1   Avian Anger  VS 4b 15m

Paddy O’Brien, David Walsh, 6/6/2022.

Start as for route 2, moving with difficulty up and L until a horizontal weakness yields holds, protection, and nice climbing all the way to the top.

2.    Seaga Ciúin.  V. Diff 15m

David Walsh, Paddy O’Brien, 6/6/2022.

Climb the bottom to top crack up the right side of the wall, up and slightly rightwards.  Best moves at the top. Lovely.

3   Corner Boy V. Diff 12m

David Walsh, Paddy O’Brien, 6/6/2022.

Separated from the smooth wall by a ramp is a stepped square shaped corner that provides one nice move right at the top.

Arch Buttress L665 842.

These routes are on the buttress with the prominent arch, almost directly below the end of the fence. Access is gained by scrambling halfway down the sloping ramp which starts a few m. E of the fence, stepping across the narrow channel (easier at low tide), and scrambling up and back right to reach the foot of the seaward face.

Arch Rivals. Diff

Gerry Moss, Cathy McGovern, 4/6/2022.

The L edge of the face.

2. Arch Central, 15m VD

Paddy O’Brien, Andrea Spinu, Tim Nairn, 4/6/2022.

Start at the base centre of the face and climb up the middle of the wall to the top.

Arch Wall East

4. Pulpits V. Diff

David Walsh, Colm Duffy, 4/6/2022.

Start as for PeuJoe and climb the shallow groove directly above, passing the large overhang on the right.  The protection gets sparse with height but the holds keep coming.

5. Ripple Arete.  Severe  

Brian Walker, William Blanchfield, 4/6/2022.

Climb the rib immediately on the right of Pulpits. Crux at top.

The next 4 routes are reached by scrambling down to the bottom of the ramp and stepping across a gap to reach a ledge at the foot of a prominent left facing corner.

6. The Way That I went S

Gerry Moss, Cathy McGovern, 6/6/2022.

Start. As for First Gear All The Way. Move up R and follow a line just L of the arête, stepping R onto the arête for the final few moves, to belay at a large, jammed block. Unprotected on the upper half.

Tón a Bhuaile

Inland Crag – L661-843

Approach. As for Arch Buttress. From there continue W, crossing a fence, a stream and another fence. Follow rising ground, with a fence on the L, and go through a wide gate. Drop down into a shallow valley, which contains the Inland Crag at its W end.

1.   Maithe Cailín V. Diff

Cathy McGovern, Gerry Moss, 5/6/2022.

Start 4m R of the L edge of the crag, at the foot of two stacked blocks and directly under a notch in the skyline From the top of the blocks step onto the face and move up, stepping L at half-height and then climbing diagonally R to finish at the highest point.     

2. V. Diff David Walsh, Colm Duffy, 5/6/2022.

Start from a small block and climb the crack above that runs continuously lower left crag to top left.

3.    Climb4Cian. V. Diff

Cathy McGovern, Gerry Moss, 5/6/2022.

Start just over 2m R of Rte.1, directly below a small but obvious  V formation at half height. Climb directly to the V and straight on up.                                                      

4. V. Diff David Walsh, Colm Duffy, 5/6/2022.

 5.  V. Diff Colm Duffy, David Walsh, 5/6/2022.

Tón a’Bhuaile East Crag.  L662-842

Approach. From the inland crag walk directly S to an arch giving access to the area known as Broad Table. Before crossing the arch a prominent L-facing corner can be seen to the E (L facing out). This provides the following climb.

Ni crack Cuinne é 25m VS 4c +

Paddy O’Brien, Brian Walker, 5/6/2022.

Scramble to tidal ledge at base of cliff about 80m east of arch. Start 2m left of the obvious L-facing corner on smooth wall. A small wire placement can be made about 5m up from the tidal ledge. At wire placement move R into the corner and climb to top. The crack in the corner allows for some finger layback but blanks out in places. Difficulties ease about 5m from the top.

Broad Table Outer L661-841

Approach. As for N crack cúinne é, cross southwards over the Arch then there is an easy scramble to get to the top of the wall. Access point to the foot of the routes is via abseil, easily rigged slings on large boulders.

1.     Sea Campion V. Diff.

Tim Nairn, Paddy O’Brien, Andrea Spînu. 5/6/2022.

The route straight forward, just right under the abseil point. Cams are useful for protection in the cracks (middle of the route). Careful with slippery plants on the rock. Use abseil point for anchors.

2.     The Fern Severe

Andrea Spînu, Paddy O’Brien, Tim Nairn. 5/6/2022.

The route is to the left of the abseil point and Sea Campion, following a zigzag rock formation. Good protection in horizontal cracks.

Uaiche Mhiley   L659-84

Approach. As for the Inland Crag. From here continue contouring West, cross a fence and follow a low wall, which is  less than 1m high and without a fence, as it slopes downward. Cross this near its lowest point and scramble down to reach a broad platform, from where the climbs start.

1 Aoife’s Challenge  V.Diff

Cathy McGovern, Gerry Moss, 6/6/2022.

Start near the L end of the platform., below a series of shallow overlaps. Climb directly up through these, on good rock but with widely spaced protection.  

Samphire Switch V.Diff

Jill French, Colm Duffy, 6/6/2022.

Up the main main crack staying on the more blank, less chossy rock to the side.

3 Flaky Finish  V. Diff

Cathy McGovern, Gerry Moss, 6/6/2022.

Start. At the foot of a deep crack, just R of a pale section of softer  rock. Follow the line as far as a clear turn towards the left.. Note the rock is flakey from this point to the finish however good protection is available.

Kincasslagh Co Donegal

Cuan Rua West Wall

9. Comfortably Numb HS 4b 20m*

M. Samsel, S. Packer, D. Madden, 28/07/2022.

Climb left trending crack on small holds. Difficulties ease as you gain height.

8. Block Party VD 12m

D. Madden, S. Packer. 28/07/2022.

Climb the landward side of the blocks by bridging between the top blocks.

9. Block and Blue HVS 5b 13m **

D. Madden, S. Packer, 20/08/2022.

Fantastic climbing up the wall and arête just right (looking from land) of the blocks. Sustained, pumpy and deceptively awkward.

  1. Midgenight Nespresso VS 5a 11m – D. Madden, M. Samsel, S. Packer, 28/07/2022
  2. Instant Coffee VS 4c 11m – M. Samsel, D. Madden, S. Packer, 28/07/2022
  3. Morning Cappuccino HS 4b 11m – M. Samsel, D. Madden, 26/07/2022
  4. Midday Espresso HS 4b 11m – D. Madden, M. Samsel, 26/07/2022
  5. More Espresso HS 4b 11m – D. Madden, M. Samsel, 26/07/2022
  6. La Dolce Vita E1 5b 12m* – M. Samsel, D. Madden, 26/07/2022. The next three routes are located within the narrow inlet.
  7. Gelato HS 4b 12m M. Samsel, D. Madden, 26/07/2022.
    Climb up from the chockstone to a ledge above (to the right if facing out to sea). To the top on jugs.
  8. Amaretto S 4a 9m D. Madden, M. Samsel, 26/07/2022.
    Same starting point as Gelato (from the chockstone), but this time facing left. Top out on the left.
  9. Rico Diff 8m – D. Madden, 21/08/2022.
  1. Big Mac HVS 18m ** D. Madden, M. Samsel, 27/07/2022.
    Steeply straight up from the ledge on good holds. The angle eases as you get higher (small wires).
  2. Nothing Burger S 4b 18m M. Samsel, D. Madden, 27/07/2022.
    Start as for Big Mac. An awkward sequence rightward onto easier ground, finish up Buzz. 10. Veggie Burger D 18m S. Packer, D. Madden, 20/08/2022. Starting 10m from “Buzz” below the center of the overhanging head wall,
    climb straight up then traverse rightwards via one tricky move onto the slab. From here the route is
    devoid of meat and traverses right and upwards (loose rock near the top).
  1. An Portán Dearg S 4a 12m* M. Samsel, D. Madden, 27/07/2022.
    From the tidal ledge up the shallow corner and then wide crack.

Omey Island Selkie Wall

Punters Direct E3 5c

Dave Craig, Sile Daly, 03/06/2022.

More direct line added to Punters Pedestal E2 5c 30m ***

Lugh of the Longhand E3 5c

Dave Craig, Sile Daly, 12/08/2022.

limbs the obvious diagonal crack that crosses the slab. Start in twin cracks at the very right-hand
end of the fluted cracks. Climb the cracks till they start to fade and move up and left to a sloping ledge
shared with “with a faery…”. Follow the rightward trending diagonal crack around a bulge (crux) and
teeter on up to reach a stance beneath an overlap. Continue in the same direction below the overlap
and onward to join the top of “The Selkie’s Childer”.

The Stolen Child E3 6a

Sile Daly, Dave Craig, 21/08/2022.

Excellent ‘harder then it looks’ climbing, start in a shallow left facing corner crack just left of Punters
Pedestal. Climb the corner to gain a stance above the tricky overlap. Follow the crack above to
hopefully gain good flakes and ledges where it tapers out. Finish as for Punters Pedestal.

The Stolen Child Indirect E4 6a

Dave Craig, Sile Daly, 21/08/2022.

For a more thrilling finish, from the top of the crack step left beneath a small overlap to gain a thin
crack. Climb the crack to a horizontal break. Gather your wits and make some thin moves up and
slightly left to join ‘With a Faery…’ Swing out of the huge, juggy blocks for a bit of craic to finish.

Morocco