2023 IMC New Routes Roundup - Irish Mountaineering Club IMC, Cumann Sléibhteoireachta na hÉireann

Back from the Alps? Tired of looking at that same old borehole? looking for a new adventure after completing that project? Here’s a few places that you could check out amidst all the new developments in 2023.

Sheeps Head Co Cork

Carrignacappul West Inlet

Happy Cathy D

C. McGovern, G,. Moss, 1/5/2023.

Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

Beara Co Cork

Allihies Whaleback Crag

Rocking at the Lighthouse 22m S

Barry Watts, Bernie Stubbs, 29/4/2023.

Start on the platform right and above of Scales, climb the leftwards trending cracks over shelves to a ledge. Climb the 3m wall to a second ledge and finish up a leftwards facing corner.

Moss flavored 22m S

Barry Watts, Bernie Stubbs, 29/4/2023.

There is a high slabby face/flank left of the descent and Mixed Up. Start 1m left of Mixed Up and climb directly up the slab to the second col on the skyline, place some gear and traverse right to gain cracks that will deliver you to the third col on the skyline, continue up the easy arete to the top.

Mixed Up detour S

Bernie Stubbs, Barry Watts, 29/4/2023.

Climb the corner of Mixed Up to a ledge at two thirds height, climb the hand crack in the left wall to the top.

Saucy Baboon S

Jill French, Jane Irvine, 29/4/2023.

Start 2m right of Pinnacles, climb the corner over several shelves to the top.

Burren Co Clare

Aill na Cronain Falla Uachtarach

ENGAGEMENT S

Barry Watts, Brandon O’Toole, Audrey O’Toole, 22/8/2023.

Climb the crack 1m right of the arete to a ledge, traverse right for 3m and climb the short left facing corner to a higher ledge, finish up the short steep headwall.

ST MUNCHIN’S BREAKFAST 11m S

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 8/9/2023.

Start between AG and FACILE below a wide crack, climb the wall right of this crack to a ledge where FACILE swings to the left, instead finish up the smooth cracked wall above.

DETENTION S

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/8/2023.

Start below and right of CÚINNE DANA, scramble up to the steep left facing corner, climb leftwards to a shelf and finish directly as for CÚINNE DANA.

SUSPENSION S

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 22/8/2023.

Climb the sreep wide crack 3m right of DETENTION.

EXPULSION S

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/8/2023.

Start 1m right of SUSPENSION, climb on small flat holds to reach a shelf and rest, veer slightly right up the cracked wall to finish.

Fanore

A long low limestone cliff ranging in height from 3m to 10m. It is about 600m above and behind St Patrick’s Church in Fanore. Park at Murrough Bridge, there are a few spaces on the grassy verge of the Khyber Pass road. Walk up the road towards the Pass for 200m and there is a stile on the right hand side, climb over this and head up the rocky hillside until you spot the escarpment line.

ICEBURGER * (1) 14m HS 4b

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Climb steeply to the platform, climb the crack in the laid back slab and move right to finish.

CHOCK A LOT * (2) 14m S

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start left and just lower down from the rock platform. Climb the cracked wall and finish up the right trending wide crsck, as the names suggests hexes are handy.

SPRINKLES (3) 10m VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start just left of CHOCK and climb the narrower cracks directly to the top.

I SCREAM (4) 10m VS 4c

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start 5m left of SPRINKLES at an arete, climb the wall left of the arete to a platform, finish up the steep wide crack above (crux).

COHEN (5) 10m S

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.

Start left of SCREAM and climb the left side of the buttress to a small ledge, climb up the steep cracked wall on your right which is left of the upper arete.

200m to the right/South there is another steep buttress, routes are now left to right.

SLACK TIDE 10m VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.

Climbs the left facing corner on the left of the overhangs.

BIKINI LINE VS 4c

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Climb the leftward slanting wide crack to a ledge finish directly up the vertical wall above.

BAYWATCH 10m S

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Takes the left hand crack line in the bay.

THE HOFF 10m HS 4b

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay.

THE WALRUS 10m VD

Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/4/2023.

Takes the left hand crack line in the bay.

BEACH BUM * 10m VS 5a

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay, looks laid back and easy going from a distance but it turns out to be tougher than it looks.

CRUISE LINER 10m VD

Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.

Start at the right hand end of the crag, climb up for 3m to a bulge, traverse right around the arete and climb the cracked wall to the top.

Murroughkilly

Upper Tier

TITAN CRACK S

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 23rd June 2023.

Start 15m right of ALLEZ STRASBOURG, climb the short wall to the mid way ledge. Move right and climb the wide crack on the upper wall using a boulder on the right to stsrt.

BRUNO THE BRAWLER VD

Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, 23rd June 2023.

10m to the right of TITAN CRACK the short lower tier of rock becomes a grass slope and there is a recess with three crack lines above it in the upper tier. Climb the middle crack in this upper tier to a shelf below the steep headwall traverse left to finish.

Doughbraneen Summit South

There is a South facing cliff due South of the Doughbraneen Cairn which is further East and uphill of the Upper Tier.