New Crag Exploration, Mullet Peninsula

Meet to sea cliffs at the North end of the Mullet peninsula, Mayo

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There is good potential for putting up new routes from easy grades up into E grades. Access to the cliffs is about a 20min walk over easy ground, and access to the bottom of the cliffs is by abseil or walk/scramble. I spoke to one of the land owners and there’s no access issue. There are about 5 or 6 areas situated in or near small coves and the angle of the rock is from near vertical to leaning back 20 or 30 degrees. The rock is coarse with good friction, below high tide level it’s smoother, to me it looks like red granite! There appears to be good belay/abseil points at the top of the cliff where the ground flattens out quickly. Height ranges from approx 20m to 40m.

Camping is at Annagh Head, on good ground with some shelter from westerlies, 2min from the car. There is a small sea crag here with the potential for some new, mostly easy routes. I have arranged with the landowner who is happy to allow camping provided we LNT. He asked for ‘the price of a drink’ so I would suggest €5 per night per tent. There is the possibility of water about 500m away but I’ll have to enquire about this. From Annagh Head it’s about 10km to the climbing area where there is parking and a coffee hut.

As this is an unclimbed area with unknown protection, belay or abseil points it is recommended that novice climbers should arrange to partner up beforehand with experienced climbers.