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  • The Hut 73’ish

    (by Stephen R Young, 2007)
    "Having spent 14 days at Glendasan, my own cooking was beginning to get the better of me …"


    Having spent 14 days at Glendasan, my own cooking was beginning to get the better of me or rather the better of Brendan’s Elsans (our temporary warden, remember Dave was away Trolletteing); I decided to eat out.


    Dave Walsh and Paul Donnelly on Elsan duty

    Down in sunny Woodenbridge, by sheer chance, I ran into my old mate A40 Pedro, he runs a kind of Great Pissific Ironworks, he doesn’t make rurps, just gates and similar artistic ironware.


    A40 and Anglia; Joe, Jimmy and ?? on way to Tonelagee

    After a few jars, I was persuaded to eat later, an urgent visit to the coast was necessary, for what reason, I was never to find out!

    At the Bay, the home of “Blondie and the big black one” (but that’s another story), a real tourist hotel, full of happy holiday “Brits”, Pedro ordered his umpteenth Crème de Menthe and started chatting to a fellow bar support. His newfound friend was tallish, blondish and I was soon called over to meet Leoni, a great “hairy Dane”, who was “in the air”.

    “In the air?” I questioned.
    “Yes, in the air”, was the sharp reply.
    “You must be a commercial pilot?”
    “No”
    “An air steward?”
    “No”
    “A fighter pilot?”
    “No”
    “A parachutist?”
    “No”
    “You’re obviously a hot air balloonist?”
    “No”
    “A compressed air salesman?”
    “No”
    “I give up”. All I wanted was food, I was starving and gradually getting pissed.
    “I’m a ‘uman cannonball”, he replied.
    “A what?” Pedro and I gasped.
    “A ‘uman cannonball”

    By now it was the umpteenth-plus-some Crème de Menthe and Leoni started.

    “I ‘av a fourteen feet (surely it should have been in meters) chromium plated cannon from which I am fired. I fold myself into a foetal position in the barrel and the gun is banged (what separated him from the powder I was never to find out). After fourteen feet, I am blacked out and travelling at 120 mph (or was it km/hr). At my apogee (top of the flight path, it’s great to have egg-headed friends) I un-blackout-in, outstretch my arms, clasp my thumbs together. (like a butterfly silhouette on the club film screen courtesy of Mike Daly) By waggling my hands, I loop the loop to land backwards into the safety net. Who said it was dangerous?”

    “Well, Leoni, how often do you fly, do you get paid, do you train?”

    “Oh, oh, yes, I get two thousand pounds (this is an old story) for a four second flight. Before a flight, I keep off the booze for seven days, never mind the nights, it helps in the un-blackout-in routine. I last flew, two years ago, you see, I’m in Ireland convalescing, On my last flight, dressed in my helmet and leathers (like a 1930 TT rider), I failed to land backwards and went through the net with my arms outstretched” – yes at 120 mph!

    With Leoni’s phone number written on my cheque book in case I ever wanted to hire him for some spectacular event, Pedro and I set off back to the Avoca for our meal, a two-A40 convoy!

    By some miracle, we found the Vale View and by sheer chance, Pedro meets his long lost cousin Ivor and his wife in the jacks (Ivor, not the wife).

    The meal eaten and multiple bottles of Faisca (a fruity, sparkling rosé wine from Portugal) consumed, Ivor and the wife left for the airport, no cannon for them, they were to fly to England!


    The hut

    Back in convoy, we headed north, Pedro turned west at Rathdrum for the mountains and I continued along the windy, switchback road through Clara, passed the “keyhole doored barn” to Laragh and then along the Hollywood road to the IMC hut, my home for the summer. Violet had thrown me out of the Redcross farmhouse for the more lucrative summer holiday trade. After all, I was just a “winter lodger”.

    Somehow, I reached the hut to find the keys would not open the “cow house” door. Had Barry changed the locks? The upstairs window was open, I found an old short ladder but, boy, is it hard to climb a stepless ladder when pissed. Well, to cut a long ladder short, I left the story and climbed into the cowhouse top window only to become stuck like a “Faisca cork”. I struggled, I was impaled on the window opener spike, the ladder fell over and I was left “in the air”. Just as I was thinking I was going to have to wait four days for Brendan to come to the hut and open it for the weekend, two motor cyclists, Leo and Gerard arrived, saw my predicament, re-positioned the ladder and pushed me in through the window, I slept where I landed.


    The Cow House and the short wooden ladder!
    Joe Mulhall, Dave Walsh, Christy Rice, ??, Kevin Byrne, Pat Redmond

    The moral of this tale is to keep two feet firmly on the ground but if perchance you get in the air, clasp your thumbs and fall backwards into your troll net (or I guess now your bouldering mat) or forwards into the arms of your trollette – Dave!


    It’s no picnic at Glendasan!
    Paul McHugh, Dave Mitchell, Dave Richardson, Joe Mulhall, Miss Daly


    Christmas 1973
    Jimmy Leonard, Allan Douglas, Jim McKenzie, John O’Connor,
    Gráinne, Dave Mitchell, Joe Mulhall, Dónal Ó Murchú

  • This Sporting Life

    (by Gerry Moss, September 2009)
    Half-day sessions on small Wicklow crags.


    Made a quick dash out to Bray Head on Saturday morning with Joe and we got a few routes in before the drizzle arrived. This is Joe abbing down the line of Cricklewood:

    We were surprised to discover that someone has equipped Camán as a sports route, using 10 pitons, many of them placed in cracks offering good gear placements. We suspect it may be the work of some of our visitors from overseas, so perhaps this pegging extravaganza was sponsored by our free-spending former Minister for Sports and Tourism!

    Another crag that has benefited from the prolonged dry spell is The Bishop, near Newtownmountkennedy.

    We paid a short visit on Wenesday afternoon and found it in good nick, though a little tidying-up was needed enroute. This is looking down from halfway up The Crozier:

    Joe ticked off his first on-sight VS lead here, and also demonstrated the reliability of his gear placements!

    Worth a visit while the dry weather lasts, and less than 10 minutes walk from the old N11.

  • Wicklow Rockclimbing Guide: Topos and other material

    Wicklow Rockclimbing Guide: Topos and other material

    (by Sé O Hanlon, August 2009 onwards)
    Topos and other material to accompany the 2009 Wicklow Rockclimbing Guide.
    (Last updated 11.7.17)

    Below are links to topos from the Wicklow Rock Climbing Guide (published by Mountaineering Ireland, details here) and some additional stuff not included in the guide which you may find useful.

    Pictures marked with * have been changed since the guide went to press either by adding new routes or correcting mistakes.

    Click on a link to see a picture. Right-click on the picture to get the option to save the image to your computer. There you can print in any size you fancy.

    Please play your part in perfecting the topos by mailing any corrections or additions to wicklow@irishmountaineeringclub.org .

    Below are links to topos from the Wicklow Rock Climbing Guide (published by Mountaineering Ireland, details here) and some additional stuff not included in the guide which you may find useful.

    Pictures marked with * have been changed since the guide went to press either by adding new routes or correcting mistakes.

    Click on a link to see a picture. Right-click on the picture to get the option to save the image to your computer. There you can print in any size you fancy.

    Please play your part in perfecting the topos by mailing any corrections or additions to wicklow@irishmountaineeringclub.org .

    Contents

    • Glendalough
    • Luggala
    • Lough Dan
    • Carraigshouk
    • Mall Hill
    • Glenmalure
    • Hollywood
    • Bray Head
    • Rocky Valley
    • The Bishop
    • Barnbawn
    • Carrick Mountain
    • Barnacullian
    • New routes: Ashford – Bonfire Buttress

    Glendalough


    Page 30

    (5MB)

    Page 32 *

    (1.6MB)

    Page 36 *

    (2.0MB)

    Page 39 *

    (2MB)


    Page 54 *

    (2MB)


    Page 58 *

    (6MB)

    Page 61 *

    (2MB)

    Page 67 *

    (2MB)

    Page 67 detail *

    (.97kB)

    Page 72 *

    (2MB)

    Page 86 *

    (2MB)

    Luggala

    Luggala is a very big and complex crag and these overlapping pictures may help you to find your way around it.


    G Buttress

    (1.8MB)

    G Buttress (new)

    366kb

    H Buttress

    (3.8MB)

    Main cliff left side

    (4.6MB)

    Main cliff central (old)

    (4.4MB)

    Main cliff right side

    (4.5MB)

    These are links to the guide topos:


    Page 102 *

    (2.1MB)

    Page 106 *

    (1.7MB)

    Page 112 *

    (1.9MB)

    Page 115 *

    (2.2MB)

    Page 119 *

    (3.4MB)

    Page 128 *

    (2.4MB)

    Page 139 *

    (2.4MB)

    Page 142 *

    (2.0MB)

    Page 154 *

    (2.4MB)

    Page 163 *

    (2.4MB)


    Page 168 a*

    (4.7 MB)
    G page 168 Luggala main Face left b
    Page 168 b*

    4.7MB
    G page 177 LuggalaPage 177*
    (276kB)

    Page 188*

    (1.7MB)

    Page 191 *

    (2.1MB)

    Page 197*

    (2.2MB)

    Additional topo’s drawn by Ken Doyle


    Low View, p154-p163 (2018-05-21)

    (5.3MB)

    Main cliff central (2018-05-21)

    (8.0MB)

    North gully (2018-05-21)

    (14.1MB)

    Lough Dan


    General view

    (1.8MB)

    Page 203 *

    (1.9MB)

    Page 206 *

    (1.8MB)

    Page 208 *

    (2.0MB)

    Page 210 *

    (1.5MB)

    Page 212 *

    (1.9MB)
     

    Carraigshouk


    Page 223 *

    (668kB)

    Page 226 *

    (248kB)

    Page 228 *

    (1012kB)

    Mall Hill


    Main cliff right side

    (4.5MB)

    Glenmalure


    Page 245 *

    (1.7MB)

    Page 251

    (932kB)

    Routes 22 & 45
    and location
    of crag

    (836kB)

    Glenmalure North Routes 3 – 6

    (4.2MB)

     


    Glenmalure North Routes 6 to 9

    (5.4MB)

    Glenmalure North Routes 12 – 14 (part)

    (4.1MB)

    Glenmalure North Routes 8, 12 – 16

    (1.8MB)

    Glenmalure North Routes 10 – 12
    (5.4MB)

    Hollywood

    Page 269 *
    (2.0MB)
     

    Bray Head


    Photo overview
    of Cable Rock

    (1.1MB)

    Pulpit area

    (129kB)

    Routes near
    Cricklewood

    (368kB)

    Streaky Slab

    (820kB)

    Bracket Slab
    (146kB)

    Rocky Valley


    Photo of crag from road
    for identification

    (1.4MB)
     

    The Bishop


    Page 294 *

    (2.1MB)
     

    Barnbawn


    Page 301

    (1.8MB)

    Page 303 *

    (3.4MB)
     

    Carrick Mountain


    General photo
    of crag

    (876kB)

    Drawing of route locations

    (16kB)
     

    Barnacullian


    Location of
    routes 1, 1a,
    1b, 2 & 2a

    (1020kB)

    Photo route 3

    (804kB)
     

    Bonfire Buttress


    Photo of
    routes 1-4

    (116kB)

    Photo of
    route 5

    (76kB)
     
  • Owey and the Cruit Itch

    (by David Craig, July 2009)
    New-routing on Owey Island, Co. Donegal


    Síle and myself travelled to Owey Island for the joint IMC and Colmcille climbers meet. As Gerry described in his article it is a wonderful place to visit but the climbing requires a bit of caution. On the Saturday, as Gerry Niamh and Michael climbed on the Northern end of the island, we partook of an established route on the eastern side in a small bay bound all around by steep cliffs. The route, Call Me Ishmael, was a very pleasant crack that seems to be fairly popular, that is at least three other parties had climbed it since it was put up and possibly more, which amounts to heavy traffic in these parts!

    As I sat on the belay while Síle climbed, my eyes could not help but wander over to a crack in the opposing wall. It dropped like a plum line splitting a 30m wall in two and, as we were on the only recorded route in this particular bay, seemed to be up for grabs. An hour or so later I found myself struggling in what looked like the crux of the climb, which I eventually passed to a poor rest at a small overlap and a solid wire. Above me was a stack of juggy looking flakes that appeared to offer an easy layback to the top, however in a moment of uncharacteristic intelligence I gave them a tap before I started to swing out of them. I’m still not sure exactly how these flakes are attached to the wall but thankfully they still are as I decided to swing out of the wire I had just place and deeming discretion to be the better part of valour beat a hasty retreat. Or as Síle describes it, came down gibbering with my knees knocking and my knickers ringing.

    There seems to be a huge amount of unclimbed rock on Owey but as you may have guessed by now some cleaning would be required. I can think of worse ways to spend a weekend though, than cleaning and hopefully climbing a route on this very pleasant island and intend to return soon for the rematch (after softening the opponent up a bit by removing the flakes), just as soon as my knickers dry out.

    On the slightly less adventurous side of things, a worthwhile alternative if you decide Owey is not your cup of tea, is Cruit island which offers some nice climbing on clean wave washed granite. The routes are short, 10 to 15 meters, but the angle gives you a bit of a workout and there is plenty of potential for new routes. Traderg bay has been developed on the Southern side by local climbers and the Northern side by our own Gerry and Liam. Details can be found on the Colmcille Climbers website in the Donegal guide book section. Sile and myself added some new routes to both areas recently details of which are below.

    Albatross Sea Wall

    Consolation Prize ,&nsbp;VS (4c)
    David Craig and Síle Daly 25/06/09
    The crack between Faithless and Kickapoo climbed using holds on the arête.

    Traderg Wall area – Tráthnóna Wall

    Two Ends of a Middle  HVS (5a)
    David Craig and Síle Daly 24/06/09
    The first crack in the bulging wall between Iron Man and Joe L’s Jaunt. There are two variations possible, the start is the crux for both. Strenuous moves gain a good ledge to the left of where the crack forks. The left fork can be climbed easily or the right with a tricky move through a bulge near the top. Most tides.

    Seggílegge  VS (5a)
    David Craig and Síle Daly 24/06/09
    The crack to the right of Two Ends of a Middle. The start is the crux. Either make a difficult move off the ground to gain a jug or simply jump up. Climb the crack to the top making copious use of the flake crack to the left. May feel difficult to the vertically challenged! Most tides.

    Trio  VS (5a)
    David Craig and Síle Daly 24/06/09
    A right to left diagonal of the wall. Start as for Seggílegge, gain the flake crack and move up and left into Two Ends of a Middle right hand finish. At a horizontal break, move left into the left hand finish and continue up this.

    Grease Lightning  VS (4c)
    David Craig and Síle Daly 24/06/09
    The crack to the right of the top part of Maamturks Man, climbed from sea level. Low to mid tide.


    Grease Lightning and Croithlí Dáithí

    Croithlí Dáithí  E2 (5c)
    David Craig and Síle Daly 24/06/09
    The crack to the right of Grease Lightning. Climb strenuously to a cramped ledge up on the left. Step right and gain the good platform above. Climb the wall to the right of the corner and exit via the small chimney. Low to mid tide.

    Traderg Wall area – Poll na Caoineadh, right side

    Knickers  Severe
    Síle Daly and David Craig 01/07/09
    Start 2m left of the square cut overhang of Traderg Tantrum at a bulging flake crack. Climb the crack and follow an easy traverse line leftwards over ledges to a prominent nose. Follow a crack above the nose to the top.


    Knickers and Skidmarks

    Skidmarks  HVS (5a)
    Síle Daly and David Craig 01/07/09
    Start as for Knickers. At approximately half way across the traverse a flake crack heads up slightly rightwards to some undercut holds. Use these to gain the wall above just below right end the long overlap. Traverse easily leftwards below the overlap to re-join Knickers near the top.


    The Traderg Tantrum

    The Traderg Tantrum  E1 (5b)
    David Craig and Síle Daly 01/07/09
    Start 2m left of The Parting Glass at a corner leading up to the square cut overhang. Climb the corner, crux, then traverse below overhang. Pass the overhang on the right via some interesting flakes and make a long reach up and right to good flake holds via obvious undercut holds. Follow the flakes back slightly leftwards to an exit at a wide crack.

    Traderg Wall, right hand side

    Síle climbed a fantastic line here on a wall that already hosts a couple of excellent VS routes.


    The Cruit Itch

    The Cruit Itch  E2 (5c)
    Síle Daly and David Craig 23/06/09
    On Traderg wall right hand side. Start at an obvious bulging crack to the left of Strangeboat. Climb the crack to an overlap. Mantle a jug above and make a long reach up right to a hidden finger jug. Move up to a horizontal break and finish via a flake crack on the right.

  • Five Go to Owey Island

    (by Gerry Moss, June 2009)
    Travelling to a Donegal island and climbing on its perfect granite.


    You should take a trip to Owey Island. Highly recommended.

    Catch the boat from the little pier below the golf course at the tip of Cruit Island. As you make the ten minute crossing, listen to Dan, the ferryman (a friend of Hugh’s since their schooldays) regale you with tales of life on Owey as boy and man. The simple life: no electricity, no television, no traffic, no time constraints.

    Camp by the low stone walls (home to nesting wrens) only a stone’s throw from the mooring in the little cove. Hear the seldom-heard crek-crek of the corncrake and the drumming of the snipe. Let yourself be lulled to sleep by the constant, rhythmic beat of wave on rock.

    Wander along the rugged, undulating coastline and marvel at the magnificent cliffs and sea-stacks. Or ramble up through the deserted village and follow the green road to the lake. Bring your headtorch and you can explore something rare, perhaps even unique, in these islands. A lake beneath a lake. A large cavern and underground lake set in a granite formation. Scramble down an increasingly narrow and increasingly darker passage to reach the airy vault at the lake’s edge.

    You could, of course, always go climbing. Start at the East side cliffs, only two minutes from the campsite. Here you will find the first climbs to be done on the island, put up by our own Dave Walsh many moons ago, on excellent granite. Or you could visit the North or West cliffs, where the routes are of a longer and more adventurous nature, requiring some experience and mountaineering skills.

    Myself and Niamh travelled up early on Friday and got some routes done on Cruit, before pitching the tents. We were joined later by Michael and, later still, by Sile and Dave. We took the ferry over to the island the next morning where Alan Tees of Colmcille Climbers was waiting to welcome us. He then brought us on a tour of the island, pointing out all the different climbing areas. After lunch we split up and went climbing.

    Sunday morning was a bit drizzly, so we visited the underground lake, before taking down the tents and heading back to the mainland.

    All in all, a great experience.

    Talk to Dan, the ferryman, 086 601 3893. You’ll be glad you called.

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Irish Mountaineering Club
Glendasan
Glendalough
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