Name: Club Climbing Night
Start: 2026-09-03T18:00:00+01:00
End: 2026-09-03T21:00:00+01:00
Location: Dalkey Quarry

Force Majeure

(by Gerry Moss, October 2008)
A return trip to the classic route F.M., on Slieve Lamagan in the Mournes.

I first climbed F.M., on Slieve Lamagan in the Mournes, for the one and only time, way back in 1990. But I must confess that, at the time, I treated this fine route in a rather cavalier fashion, scarcely affording it the regard it deserves.

My excuse is that, back then, we were in retreat from Fair Head and foul weather, and F.M. hadn’t figured in our plans. The last sound we heard on the Friday night, as we settled into our sleeping bags on the floor of the late Jim McKenzie’s barn, otherwise known as The Palace, was the sound of rain drumming on the roof. And wouldn’t you know it, the first sound we heard on Saturday morning was the non-stop rattle of the rain on the slates. We sat it out until mid-day, before conceding that climbing was not only ruled out for that day, but more than likely for the Sunday too, due to seepage.

So we packed up and headed south to the Mournes, a regular fall-back, and often the saviour of a rained-off climbing trip to the Head.

We spent the night in a cottage that had once served as a hut for the long-defunct Glenfoffany Climbing Club, and was, at that time, being used by a waning Belfast section of the I.M.C. Sunday morning was cloudy and damp, but better things were promised. Our targets included Dot’s Delight on Lower Cove and, rather than hanging around waiting for the weather to improve, we decided to do F.M. enroute to the Cove. Terry and Emily roped up while I, to save time, soloed up, sometimes in front, sometimes behind, sometimes to one side (I was young and foolish then and, though older now, little else has changed). Our arrival at Lower Cove coincided with the parting of the clouds and, with rapidly drying rock, everything went according to plan.

What brought all of this to mind was an email I received from Helen Condon in late June. Still on a high after successful participation in the Lake District meet, herself and Michael Scott had just climbed F.M., on one of the rare good days of the summer. She was feeling mighty pleased with herself, and rightly so, for it’s a grand route, one of several classic contributions to the Mourne climbing scene by Roy Johnston.

So I decided it was high time I returned to F.M., to make a less-hurried, less off-hand, ascent of the route. But I am no longer at the stage where I can treat a walk-in of well over an hour as a mere bagatelle, a trifling warm-up excercise, to be followed by a care-free romp up damp slabs. A slow learner, I am now a firm believer in the motto that states if you can’t be strong you must be cute and have reached the conclusion that what every older climbers needs is a younger, fitter, strong and keen apprentice. Enter Genevieve. We have a very satisfactory working arrangement – I do most of the donkeywork on the rock, she does most of the donkeywork on the approach.

Thus it was that, early last Sunday morning, weighed down with gear and rope, she powered her way along the track towards the shapely Slieve Lamagan, while I, lightly laden, trotted sedately behind.

Wasn’t Sunday a wonderful Autumn day? Wall-to-wall sunshine, cloudless blue skies. True, we were buffeted by a strong and cold northerly wind as we headed up the valley, but the wind was blowing from the back of the mountain, and we felt sure we would be sheltered on the rock, and so we were.

It was all very pleasant: bathed in soft, autumnal sunshine; padding up dry rock; enjoying the views out over the lovely Annalong valley. Encouraged by all of this Genevieve took over the sharp end of the rope, making the moves, route-finding, placing gear, setting up belay anchors.

We had a leisurely lunch on top, then scrambled back down to base, with never even the slightest hint of rain in the offing. A touch of Mourne magic.

On the walk-out we caught up with two young women, returning from a day’s climbing on Lower Cove. Two of Eddie Cooper’s protégés, they had been shown the ropes at the Ozone Wall, introduced to real rock in the Mournes, taught how to place gear, then set free. And they soared. Still in the early stages of their climbing careers, their bubbly enthusiasm was infectious, their excitement and delight a joy to behold. The previous weekend they had been to Snowdonia for the first time, were blessed with good weather, and gobsmacked by the number of long, easy climbs available in The Pass and Ogwen Valley.

I know exactly how they feel.

Do you?
Fowl Play

(by Gerry Moss, September 2008)
Climbing on Hen Mountain in the Mournes.

Having been frequently described as possessing less flesh than a plucked chicken, I decided it was high time to revisit Hen Mountain in the Mournes (it being all of twenty-five years since I was last there). This is an ideal venue for a day trip, being the nearest of the Mourne crags to Dublin – in fact, only a hen’s race from Newry, via the little village of Hilltown. The approach is nice and short too, along a laneway to the foot of the hill, then up a grassy path to the tors – a little less than half-an-hour up, twenty minutes down.

Being tors, they only have to cope with whatever rain falls on them, so there is little or no seepage, they dry very quickly and have little vegetation, providing routes on clean rock. Sitting on top of the hill, they get plenty of wind, so midges are never a problem.

True, protection is sparse on most of the tors (the Tower being the exception), but this, to my mind, makes it the thinking man’s crag. There is nothing like making thin moves a long way above your last bit of gear to focus the mind and sharpen the perception. Besides, once you get used to the fabulous friction, and master the knack of toe-jamming in the rounded cracks, the climbing here will do wonders for your confidence.

Some might advocate top-roping, but the scarcity of anchor points above a lot of the climbs could provide problems there. In any case, there are sufficient climbs in the lower grades to cater for the most modest, and cautious, of climbers.

So, spread your wings: fly the coop.
A Day out on Howling Ridge, Carrauntoohil

(by Allister Gerrard, June 2008)
The infamous Howling Ridge, a coming together of a great day’s hill walking with rock climbing on a fabulous mountaineering route to Ireland’s summit, Carrauntoohil (1039m).

Howling Ridge

Howling Ridge is regarded as one of Ireland’s finest mountaineering routes, mostly a summer route, however originally first climbed by local man, Con Moriarty, in winter conditions, in the days when it got plenty of snow. The climb itself is approximately 430m in height gain of climbing/scrambling from the Heavenly Gates (approx. elevation 610m ) to the summit, apparently with eight pitches – must have missed one or two, or done two in one! Duration for climbing the route can vary from a reported 20 minutes up to 8 hours (The I.M.C. party of Tony Barry, Willie Whelan, Dairín Currey and company previously climbed it very respectably in under 2 hours, in the rain). It took us that and the rest, conditions were good, and we were under no pressure for time, so took it leisurely.

We were unsure of how long it would take so an early start was required to leave plenty of time ‘just in case’. It was the June bank holiday weekend. We all set off from Lisleibane at 9am, Joe, Jimmy, Sandra, Joanne, Emma (family), Aileen, and myself. It was a warm morning with a gently cool air, a long away from the hustle and bustle of the M50 & city mayhem; what a life. We walked up deep into the Hag’s Glen up almost as far as the two lakes. Our group spilt up here and one party set out for a day’s hill walking headed for Carrauntoohil via the Devil’s Ladder. Aileen and I broke off west of the lakes, destination ‘The Heavenly Gates’.

The Heavenly Gates, GR 807 844, marks the start of the route of Howling Ridge to Carrauntoohil’s summit. The walk up to Heavenly gates turns right before the two lakes in the Hag’s Glen are reached. Picking up a track that swings around to the west of Loch Gabhrach, the track gradually steepens with a little scrambling. The track then dwindles for a short spell of steep ground, which is easy scrambling until the track is picked up again leading to a plateau below Carrauntoohil’s steep north-east cliff face. Turning southerly at this point, the steep scree must be scrambled up to reach the notch below the ridge itself – the Heavenly Gates. It can be reached from Lisleibane in 1.5 to 2 hours. We took a generous break at Heavenly Gates, racked up and started around the corner, a few metres left of Heavenly Gates (on Collins gully side), an easy start point. On the left side of Howling Ridge it drops off into ‘Collins Gully’ before rising back up to another rocky sharp ridge, ‘Pipets Ridge’ (Easy to hard scrambling, with a section of Severe climbing). On the right side of Howling Ridge it drops off steeply again before rising up to form another ridge, ‘Primroses Ridge’ (rated VS).

Neighbouring Pipets Ridge

The first pitch

The first pitch is mostly a scramble, however we were roped up and moving together, throwing the odd sling around a spike, thread or alike; one short diff climb reaches the first plateau.

The view down after the first pitch

The second pitch ahead

Moving together again, we shortly reached the second pitch which proved the first real challenge, a short but steep bit of V.Diff exposed climbing. The rock is very loose all the way up, so when making moves and placing gear it is advisable to check & re-check the rock. I generally used a selection of gear, lot of slings, larger nuts, friends and the odd hex; we were fairly well protected throughout, taking the slower but safer options in placing gear and pitching. The rock friction is quite good; dry and very slabby, with lots of what can be described as slates of sandstone piled on top of each other, handy for jamming the odd friend in, provided they ain’t loose. The exposure is not to be underestimated; for me, this was the biggest eye-opener, the drop-offs are huge in places and consequences of a fall undoubtedly serious to worst-case scenario; however, gear placements can be found however seemingly sparse at times. The views are magnificant and are thoroughly appreciated when belaying, if you’re lucky enough to have breaks in the cloud, which we had at times on and off. It can be climbed in boots or rock shoes, depending on conditions. I opted for walking boots and found them comfortable. It could be a long day in rock shoes; although others have used rock shoes without complaint, I didn’t really miss them. We used a 60m rope with both of us carrying coils throughout, however a 30m rope would probably be more ideal. I found the 60m rope a bit cumbersome at times and extra weight! The next pitch is longer but interesting; you just have to route-find yourself, and I did a bit of zigzagging on the route or choosing one line, of which you could have tried several at different points.

View below after the third pitch

The route generally goes upwards oddly enough, sticking to climbing on the rock and centre of the ridge. I found there was a lot of rope drag, too many turning of corners I reckon, and longish pitches. The route continues on with pitches and slight plateaus and scrambling, eventually coming to one of the last pitches which towers above; nice exposed climbing leading up to what is known as ‘The Finger’ (like a closed hand with a sharp index finger of rock protruding out). At this point the long week at work, sleep deprivation and the drive down the day before (advisable to leave early on a bank holiday Friday and head the Cork road to Killarney) began to take its toll, and a much-needed break while belaying helped to recuperate before tackling the next pitch up to tThe Finger.

On Howling Ridge, with Pipets Ridge on the left

The next pitch up to The Finger

At The Finger the rock generally flattens out, sloping slightly downwards in the direction of ‘Collins Gully’. After walking across, there are options; drop into Collins gully (which I understand can be protected) or traverse to the left leading to Diff climbing on an exposed ridge above Collins Gully, which I understand is easier but loose and badly protected. We decided after walking cross the series of protruding rock after the finger to veer off around to the right of the next rock tower (on the opposite side was Collins Gully on the left side of the rock tower/ridge). We traversed around a few metres and found a grassy gully, which we scrambled up, then a couple of rock steps, generally keeping to the ridge line, which is all scrambling or moving together after the top of Collins Gully. After a short while, the ground widens, exposure vanishes and we stopped and got rid of the rope, which we had been tripping over for the last section and was becoming a nuisance. We packed the gear away and scrambled the last section to the summit. Unfortunately the cloud covered the summit; however, we enjoyed a bit of R&R.

Nearing the summit – go back!

Allister on the summit of Carrauntoohil

The weather had held out well in fairness, as thundery showers were forecast in the afternoon. We got the thunder and even a spot of rain however were lucky not to get showers, which would make the climb a more serious undertaking and less enjoyable; pick your forecast if you can!

Incidentally, the name apparently derives from when Moriarty’s dog ‘Grimsel’, a Kerry husky, had followed to the foot of the ridge but was unable to go further, and instead was left to ‘howl’ below.

We returned to Lisleibane via the Heavenly Gates track from Carrauntoohil’s summit and back to Killarney for some well-earned grub and pints! A fitting end to an enjoyable day and we enjoyed the rest of the weekend in good weather.

References and acknowledgements:
Denis Lynch’s Munster’s Mountains details most of the best scrambling and climbing routes Munster has to offer. Thanks to Declan Cunningham, Tony Barry, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan and James Flanagan for previously sharing their own experiences of the ridge.
Carpe Diem

(by Gerry Moss, September 2008)
Two days of climbing in the Mournes – Pigeon Rock and Lower Cove.

Michael was unlucky with the weather for the meet to Bearnagh Slabs. But then, given the summer that is in it, he could have picked any of half-a-dozen different Saturdays and come up with rain. Periods of good weather have been well-spaced and short-lived, the Friday after the meet was to take place being a good example. A small ridge of high pressure arrived and was gone within the space of a day-and-a-half. Not good for those working a five day week. But for Genevieve, still fit as a fiddle after the MCI alpine meet (N/E ridge of the Piz Badile, etc.) and keen to finish off her summer break on a high note, and for myself, for whom work consists of nothing more onerous than cutting the grass, hanging out the washing and hoovering the stairs, Friday was too good an opportunity to miss.

We opted for Pigeon Rock in the Mournes, on the basis that the plentiful supply of jugs on the gully wall would offset any seepage remaining after all the rain up there. We were pleasantly surprised to discover that the crag was almost completely dry. Sun-catching and sheltered, the choice was ideal, and we ticked off all the routes from the classic Class Distinction down as far as Falcon, the in-situ abseil point helping to speed up the process.

The intention was to continue our efforts around the corner on the Nose which, though a little runny, was climbable, and getting drier by the hour. But with the evening closing in, the sun went behind the clouds and the midges came out to play. With six routes beneath our belts we felt we could abandon the field with honour and headed back to the car after a grand day in the hills.

Fast forward to Des Doyle’s meet to Ireland’s Eye (always a popular event) last Saturday, and the story was the same as for Michael. But, cruelly, the Sunday was a delightful day and we decided to grab it with both hands. It was the Mournes again, but this time our target was Lower Cove, surely the gem in the crown of the Kingdom of Mourne. Another south-facing, sunny crag, with over 70 routes to choose from, across a wide range of grades, and most of them on quick-drying rock.

The walk-in takes just over an hour of steady going, but it is on well-used tracks, with only a gradual gradient and, all the while, splendid views ahead of Binnian, Lamagan, Slieve Beg, Donard and the whole spread of the scenic Annalong valley.

We were the first two to arrive at the crag, but were joined shortly afterwards by six others, all Dubliners availing of the good weather to head north.

The torrential rain over the previous two days had left its mark – all the streams encountered were showing ambitions to be reclassified as rivers, and all the rivers were in spate. But most of the crag was dry, and we had another great day.

Now, for Genevieve, it’s back to academia and the realm of scribes and scholars, while I, like Pangur Bán the cat, watch and wait, ready to pounce. A thankless task – but someone’s got to do it.

Carpe Diem!
West is Best?

(by Dave Craig, September 2008)
A weekend at Ailladie, climbing when dry enough, surfing when not.

A summer Noah could have been proud of, has left little options for climbers at home. Quick-drying crags around the country all seem to have one thing in common, there are not many routes on them. That is of course excepting Ailladie, which has a huge number of routes on some of the best rock in the country. Routes that start to dry as soon as it stops raining, routes that are dry when it stops raining and routes you can climb in the rain!! So with this in mind and a vague promise from the weatherman that it might stop raining briefly over the weekend, we headed off.

The wet weather also means you seem to lose touch with other climbers. So when driving through Fanore, we spotted a few, it seemed only neighbourly to go say hello. Alas! I am sorry to say climbing seemed to be the last thing on their minds.

However I was soon to learn that there might be some sense to this madness, waves like mountains are there to be climbed, and just like in the mountains this lot seemed to spend more time underneath them getting wet than up on top.

Some managed better than others it has to be said,

with the best of course rising to the top,

It wasn’t all fun and games though as Conor and Nicky had to apply some TLC to Terry O’Connor after a weaver fish stung him.

Eventually though the rain had held off long enough to warrant at least looking at the crag. Myself and Síle abbed into Stone Wall and climbed Western Pride, E1 5b. This end of the crag seems to dry a bit quicker than the other and is a good option for such days. Before we could get a second route the rain returned, so we bailed out.

The next day was better weather-wise, with the gaps between the showers being slightly longer. We returned to Stone Wall where Síle did a fine lead on Garbh, E2 5c, to start us off. Terry wanted his own go on Western Pride and I had a crack at Kleptomaniac, E3 6a, down at Aran Wall, but ran out of steam just above the crux; there’s never a shower when you need a good excuse.

Anyone who hasn’t climbed on sea cliffs might want to note the bag with the ropes paid into it ready to go, used to stop waves washing the ropes out to sea. The best approach to abbing in to spots like this is well described in the new Burren guide (and the old one), although it is probably still best to talk to someone who has done it, before going down yourself.

Terry O’Connor’s stung foot must have been contagious as the three lads never showed on the Sunday, the hot humid atmosphere in McGann’s is ripe for the spread of such things.

Myself and Síle stayed on for the Monday, watching showers pass over all morning. Then a slight improvement in the afternoon tempted us into Murroughkilly, where we climbed Bronco, VS 4c. Not unexpectedly, the weather changed giving a fitting end to this summer, which saw me sliding down the descent ramp on my rear with hailstones bouncing off my head and completely soaked to the skin. I can only conclude: WEST IS BEST ME ARSE; next time I’m off some place sunny!

Force Majeure

Fowl Play

A Day out on Howling Ridge, Carrauntoohil

Carpe Diem

West is Best?