(by Gerry Moss, September 2011)
The annual fun day out, including a surprise new route.

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There were just under twenty members on Joe’s Ireland’s Eye meet on Saturday: an eclectic mix of young and old, experienced and tyros. It was heartening to see Christy Rice back out on rock after all these years and enjoying the day to the full. A key figure in the development of Luggala during the early seventies – you will find his name on some of the biggest routes there: The Gannets, Banshee and Messiah, to mention just some of his achievements. Also with us was Niamh, grand-daughter of the late Eddie Gaffney, who was an active member of the IMC away back in the 1960s and Simon Murphy, whose father was active back in the 1970s.

The IMC has been involved with Ireland’s Eye since the club’s earliest days and it is good to see that this traditional meet, which has waxed and waned down through the years, is still going strong. Because this is an excellent meet for our newer members – educational as well as enjoyable. Although a fun day in the main, the climbs, though mostly easy, have an air of seriousness about them that you won’t find in the equivalent grades in Dalkey Quarry, and this helps impress upon beginners the importance of sound belays, good anchors and careful belaying technique.

On Saturday the fun started as soon as we all crowded onto the small boat ferrying us across to the island. We were shepherded on our way by a small school of porpoises, greeted by a small herd of seals and serenaded by the large colony of gannets on the outer stack. The weather wasn’t just perfect – it was ideal, with a little of everything. We had some pleasant sunny spells, an occasional squally shower, good drying winds and the odd strong gust, all helping to keep us on our toes. It spite of all the rumours one hears, we weren’t bothered at all by the alleged large population of rats, and there wasn’t a fulmar in sight. We even had a first ascent, by Simon and the bold Christy (who else), the first new contribution on the island for many years.

Joe was rightly pleased with the turnout on his first-ever effort at organising a meet – let’s hope he will continue to keep this tradition alive for many more years to come.

(by Gerry Moss, September 2011)
The annual fun day out, including a surprise new route.

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There were just under twenty members on Joe’s Ireland’s Eye meet on Saturday: an eclectic mix of young and old, experienced and tyros. It was heartening to see Christy Rice back out on rock after all these years and enjoying the day to the full. A key figure in the development of Luggala during the early seventies – you will find his name on some of the biggest routes there: The Gannets, Banshee and Messiah, to mention just some of his achievements. Also with us was Niamh, grand-daughter of the late Eddie Gaffney, who was an active member of the IMC away back in the 1960s and Simon Murphy, whose father was active back in the 1970s.

The IMC has been involved with Ireland’s Eye since the club’s earliest days and it is good to see that this traditional meet, which has waxed and waned down through the years, is still going strong. Because this is an excellent meet for our newer members – educational as well as enjoyable. Although a fun day in the main, the climbs, though mostly easy, have an air of seriousness about them that you won’t find in the equivalent grades in Dalkey Quarry, and this helps impress upon beginners the importance of sound belays, good anchors and careful belaying technique.

On Saturday the fun started as soon as we all crowded onto the small boat ferrying us across to the island. We were shepherded on our way by a small school of porpoises, greeted by a small herd of seals and serenaded by the large colony of gannets on the outer stack. The weather wasn’t just perfect – it was ideal, with a little of everything. We had some pleasant sunny spells, an occasional squally shower, good drying winds and the odd strong gust, all helping to keep us on our toes. It spite of all the rumours one hears, we weren’t bothered at all by the alleged large population of rats, and there wasn’t a fulmar in sight. We even had a first ascent, by Simon and the bold Christy (who else), the first new contribution on the island for many years.

Joe was rightly pleased with the turnout on his first-ever effort at organising a meet – let’s hope he will continue to keep this tradition alive for many more years to come.

(by Moira Creedon, from IMC Newsletter Autumn 2003)
September climbing on Ireland’s Eye

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Despite dodgy forecasts, a perfect day. Light wind, blazing sun, the short paddle to Ireland’s Eye was as smooth as a lake. Paddling around the back coast of the island, the pale rock of the stacks looked enticing and the climbing more impressive than the grades would suggest. We meandered lazily into rock pools and caves, seals playing on the decks of our boats. Landing on the beach, the fire was already lit, barbecue running, paradise.

Realising it was already 4 o’clock; we roused ourselves for a brief spurt of activity on the crag. Sitting on the top of the inner stack in the warm heat of a September sunset, Howth looked like a Greek island port with the white masts of the yachts in harbour waving in the evening breeze. The world of reality and the mainland seemed an eternity away.

The Ab rope we had up all afternoon was badly jammed when we went to pull it down. At this stage, fast running out of daylight, after a few expletives I soloed up the easy diff to free the rope. Realising too late of course that I should have brought a sling to leave behind, I abbed down on the shoelace of prussic. Trying hard not to wonder whether Maurice had a phone if and when he needed to call the emergency services when the prussic broke. Particularly at that point where the ab leaves you hanging in mid air. Dropping my own phone into the Irish Sea that afternoon no longer seemed like such a good idea.

At this stage pitch dark, partly clouded moon, have to gear up the boats in the dark. Time to get the hell off the island, except…I had discarded my keys SOMEWHERE on the island – as I threw off wet suit and rain gear in the blazing sun of the carefree afternoon – a lovely black pouch, very easy to find in the dark, containing car keys, house keys….

Head torches, as always in these stories, sit safely in the glove compartment of a locked car on the pier in Howth.

Half an hour of running, increasingly panic-stricken around every path on the island, feeling like Ratty in the Wind in the Willows. Eyes appearing everywhere. Those enormous black rabbits, cute in broad daylight, appeared everywhere in the increasing gloom. False trails everywhere, falling into bracken and nettle, scurrying feet and rustling sounds all around made me thankful for the rabbits as rats began to emerge from their daylight haunts to reclaim the deserted island. I cursed myself for leaving Maurice on the beach to gear up the boats. Staying the night on the island definitely NOT an option.

An hour of panic and a lot of quivering lip later we finally geared up the boats, and paddled back, reunited with keys but totally exhausted to VERY late night chips on the pier.

The lesson … ?

Don’t tell me, I think I’ve worked it out!