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  • Physical Training For Mountaineering

    (by Chris Clarke, from IMC Newsletter Autumn 2003)
    As the evenings shorten and the weather changes the opportunities to go climbing usually start to diminish at this time of the year. People start to think of indoor walls, hot rock and winter mountaineering trips. Whatever your approach to the next 6 months of the climbing calendar, you will certainly benefit from some form of structured physical training.

    ‘Fitness’ as it is generally referred to is sometimes quite a misunderstood term. As the word itself implies, it is having your body suitable fit for the intended activity. It is important to realise that fitness requirements differ from sport to sport. Therefore your fitness programme must reflect the particular requirements, which are specific to your objective. For example, you wouldn’t cycle extensively to train for a marathon although it would benefit your cardiovascular fitness.

    This brings us nicely to one of the next principles of any physical training regime, which is defining objectives. Is it a bouldering competition or trekking up an Alpine peak? Is it a hill walking marathon or ice climbing? You must set an objective for yourself. This could be a specific climbing trip where you know generally what is ahead of you or leading a particular route, which is higher than your current ability. Once this is done you will be more focused and if motivation begins to sag – you can re-focus on the goal.

    There are 3 broad components of physical fitness, namely, cardiovascular fitness, strength and flexibility. Each plays a particular role in the overall result and in climbing you need all three. The foundation of all physical training, in any sport, is cardiovascular fitness. So what is it exactly? It is essentially the ability of the heart and lungs to take in oxygen and transport it to the muscles that are performing the work. The more efficient this process is, the fitter you are. To improve you must train aerobically. Various activities will do this for you, just name your poison – running, cycling, treadmill, hill walking (uphill). Do it at least 3 times a week and don’t exceed 80% of your maximum heart rate for best results. Above this level of intensity you are risking injury with no further aerobic benefits.

    As a rule of thumb your maximum heart rate is 225 minus your age. So for a 35 year old the max heart rate is 190 beats per min. and your training rate should not exceed 152 beats per min. It is surprisingly easy to exceed this level of activity so a good heart rate monitor is a very valuable piece of kit if you are serious about your training. If you wish to burn body fat train at about 60% of your max heart rate. Any higher and you will bypass body fat reserves and mainly burn carbohydrates.

    The next component of fitness is strength. All the cardiovascular fitness in the world is no good to you when climbing if you do not have physical strength. Strength is defined as the ability to exert a given force such as performing a specific climbing move. Power is defined as performing an act of strength quickly. This could be blasting through a difficult section of a climb like a mantelshelf move. One of the most specific ways to improve strength is simply to go climbing as often as possible. Try to second routes which test your strength and therefore improve it, rather than leading at a more comfortable level. Bouldering is great strength training. If you can’t get to a wall or simply don’t like them, you can do a weight training circuit at a gym. It is important that the exercises you select are specific and as closely matched to climbing as possible.

    Last, but by no means least, we have flexibility. This is often omitted in training sessions but it is actually very important for sustainable and injury-free training. When you train aerobically, the muscles contract or shorten. In order to maintain suppleness and agility the muscle needs to be stretched. If you stretch before and after a session you are preparing physically and mentally for the hard exercise to come. It makes sense to prepare your body so as to reduce the chance of injury. This is especially true on an indoor wall. Before stretching raise your pulse by doing a short jog. Again, choose exercises which are specific to climbing, particularly ones which improve back and hip flexibility.

    If you are appalled at all of this hard work, there is some good news – rest and good nutrition are just as important as the actual training. The formula for improvement in any sport is:

      Train + Rest = Improvement

    It is during this rest phase that we actually improve rather than the training period because your body is adapting to the increased workload. In real terms this means training say on Monday, resting Tuesday and training again on Wednesday or Thursday if the body has recovered. Training on a tired body is asking to be injured or inviting illness due to a depressed immune system.

    This is only a brief overview of the principles of training and in future articles I will try to expand on some of these areas a bit further. This will include diet recommendations, pulling together a training programme and how to perform a training session properly.

    In summary, I leave you with the following tips:

    • Climb often but train aerobically and stretch
    • Don’t over-train – build gradually
    • Rest properly between sessions
    • Have an objective
    • Ensure your training is specific to climbing
    • Stay hydrated
    • Eat well
  • Orienteering

    (by Gavan Doherty, Irish Orienteering Association, from IMC Newsletter Summer 2004)
    Orienteering is competitive navigation on foot. If you enjoy running or walking, if you are interested in maps and navigation, or if you like outdoor sport then orienteering is for you!


     What is it?

    Orienteering is competitive navigation on foot. If you enjoy running or walking, if you are interested in maps and navigation, or if you like outdoor sport then orienteering is for you!

    It has its origins in Scandinavia at the end of the 19th century, when ‘military messenger’ competitions were organised by the army. Participants had to find their way with a map from one location to another, across unfamiliar terrain, in the quickest time possible.

    Distances were longer then, up to 75 kilometres! From these early origins, the sport has grown worldwide, becoming a recognised Olympic sport in 1977, and with the major Scandinavian competitions attracting up to 30,000 competitors.

     How did it start in Ireland?

    Orienteering in Ireland owes its origins to a group of enthusiastic Mountaineers / walkers (Joss Lynam, Diana Large and Seán Rothery amongst others) who set up the first few orienteering events here. They used Ordnance Survey maps of parts of the Dublin and Wicklow mountains, and competitors had to find 5 or 6 checkpoints on the map – this generally took 5 or 6 hours, as the courses were set out to suit the organisers’ tastes for a full day in the mountains.

    As time went on, Orienteering in Ireland became more sophisticated, with specially drawn maps, initially in black and white and later in colour. Different course lengths were introduced, to cater for younger people, people who wanted to run a shorter distance and family groups. The features the checkpoints were on became more sophisticated with the maps – the checkpoints for the first few events were generally based on obvious features – ‘top of mountain’, ‘road junction’ – but as the maps became more detailed, the checkpoints were placed on smaller, less obvious features, such as ‘small marsh’, ‘gully’ etc. Orienteering in Ireland grown since those early days, with the largest competitions attracting up to 450 competitors of all ages.

     So how exactly does it work?

    Take a look at the map accompanying this article – this is the key! The scale is much larger than a standard Ordnance Survey (OS) map – while an OS map will show mountains, forests and roads, an orienteering map shows also small footpaths, rocks, fences, small sections of marsh … a lot more detail than on an OS map.

    The scale of orienteering maps is usually 10:10,000, which means that 5 cm (about 2.5 inches) on the map represents 500 metres – the same length on a standard OS map would represent 5 kilometres! White generally means forest and yellow generally means open land. Green indicates thicker forest. Forest is normally described by how quickly a runner could cross it – white is ‘open’ or ‘run’, while thick green is known as ‘fight’! The start is shown by a triangle, the finish by a double circle, and each circle in between is a checkpoint or ‘control’.

    When you get to an orienteering event, you can choose a course to suit your ability. Generally the shorter courses involve easier navigation, so are recommended for novices. When you pick your course, sign up – you will be given a card (a ‘control card’), which you will use to punch at each control, proving you’ve been there.

    You may also get ‘control descriptions’ – this is a list of your controls, with information on the exact location of the flag (e.g. ‘at the path junction’ or ‘at the west corner of the fence’), and a code number. Don’t worry too much about the exact location of the flag, but the number is useful – you may see other controls while you are out that aren’t on your course, so use the code number to check that each control you visit is in fact yours.

    Fill out your details on the control card (your name etc) – don’t worry too much about classes or club when you first start. Ask for a start time, and make your way to the start. You will be asked to hand in a tear-off section of your control card (‘stub’), so that the organisers know exactly who is out there. When your time is called, you will copy down your course from the master copy or ‘master maps’ and away you go!

    Starting at the start triangle, navigate your way to the first control. At each control, there is a flag with a punch (a bit like a ticket inspector’s punch) attached to it. Competitors punch their control cards to show that they have visited that checkpoint.

    The navigation is the fun part of orienteering – although not always necessary, you can use a compass, and you’ll find that as you look at the map, there are different ways of finding the next control. Do you take the path the long way around, or go directly across country? Do you cut through the piece of thick green forest, or run the long way around the open forest? Comparing routes with other orienteers afterwards is the best way of improving your navigation, and a good way to get to know other orienteers.

     Who goes orienteering?

    Because most events have courses to suit beginners and juniors, Orienteering can be undertaken by all ages and abilities. Parents can accompany children under the age of about 8, but after that age will find courses that they can compete in on their own. Groups of walkers are often seen on Orienteering courses, while the winners will usually be strong runners who can cover up to 15km across rough forest and open mountain in one course.

     What do I need?

    To start all you need is outdoor wear you wouldn’t mind getting dirty (e.g. old runners, tracksuit, walking boots etc). Maps generally cost about €5, and a novice course should take a novice about one hour to complete.

     Where do I find out more?

    There is an informative website (www.orienteering.ie) which gives listings of all upcoming fixtures. You can also send an email with any general questions to info@orienteering.ie. The easiest way is to turn up to an event on the fixtures list – when you get there, there are organisers on hand to help out with novice orienteers.

  • Beginners Course 2004

    (by Lynn Ryan, from IMC Newsletter Summer 2004)
    "I had learnt … that climbing is not merely a sport but an addiction. I had been hooked from day one, so I wasn’t going to let something like a fear of heights stop me!"


    I have always been petrified of heights. The first thought that entered my mind as I walked into Dalkey Quarry was to run. I had been climbing indoors for six months without any vertigo problems but when I arrived at the quarry I knew that it was going to be a toss up between ‘feel the fear and do it anyway’ and legging it.

    This was the second night of the Beginners climbing course. The first night had been at the wall in UCD where 22 bumblies (well some of them not quite … if the truth be known) complete with new shoes and shiny carabiners were introduced to the basics of climbing. For many this was the first time they had climbed – for me personally the biggest challenge was yet to come … the first session in the quarry – but in spite of my fear I was determined to do it. I had learnt six months previously when I started climbing indoors that climbing is not merely a sport but an addiction. I had been hooked from day one … so I wasn’t going to let something like a fear of heights stop me!


    Figure-of-Eight re-threaded

    In the quarry each instructor was designated two beginners. Hugh Sharkey would be the person that would lead the first route that I ever climbed – ‘D Route’. I stood at the bottom and managed to convince myself that it really wasn’t that high. Pushing my fear aside I climbed until I had one last move to do … then reality struck … it was a case of Hugh-ston we have a problem and I do recall saying ‘Hugh I think I am going to be sick’! Hugh very calmly replied ‘Lynn I don’t think you will be ‘. I took him at his word and finished the route. Having survived I relaxed totally and from that moment on I really started to enjoy the climbing.

    The course consisted of five sessions – the first at the wall and the rest in Dalkey. It covered everything from fitting a harness and tying on, to belaying, rope handling, climbing calls and climbing techniques. It was also a great opportunity for new members to meet lots of the established members, for people to make contacts and to find climbing partners. The beginners meet organised by Kevin Byrne the weekend after the course finished was a further chance to consolidate these contacts, to put into practice everything learnt on the course and to gain an insight into what the IMC is really about. There was lots of climbing, lots of music and lots of fun topped off by some fantastic weather.

    On behalf of all the beginners I would really like to thank everyone that was involved in the organisation, running and instructing on the course – who gave up so much of their personal time and who passed on their valuable experience.

    I learnt so much on the beginners course – I now know my Italian from my Clove hitch … but leaving climbing aside I have met so many nice people. Hopefully it will be the start of some great friendships and many years of climbing.

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