Skip to content
Irish Mountaineering Club IMC, Cumann Sléibhteoireachta na hÉireann
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
Join Now
Book the Hut
Members Login
  • About
    • Introduction
    • Contact Us
    • Documents
      • Constitution
      • Privacy Policy
    • Expeditions
    • Kindred Clubs, Handy Hostels
    • Library
    • People
  • Join
    • Introduction
    • New Membership
  • Blog
    • Article
    • Obituary
    • Review
    • Route Info
    • Training
    • Trip Report: International
    • Trip Report: Ireland
    • Other: Bottom of Home Page
  • Events
    • Introduction
    • Calendar
  • Hut
  • Publications
    • Introduction
    • Books
    • Newsletters
      • 2010-now
      • 2000-2009
      • 1990-1999
      • 1980-1989
      • 1970-1979
      • 1960-1969
      • 1950-1959
    • IMC Archive
    • Videos
  • Training
    • Overview
    • Introduction to Trad climbing Programme
Irish Mountaineering Club IMC, Cumann Sléibhteoireachta na hÉireann
  • Log In
  • Join the IMC
  • About
    • Introduction
    • Kindred Clubs, Handy Hostels
    • Library
  • Blog
    • Article
    • Obituary
    • Review
    • Training
    • Important Information
  • Events
    • Introduction
    • Calendar
  • Hut
  • Publications
    • Books
    • Newsletters
      • Newsletters 2010-2018
      • Newsletters 2000-2009
      • Newsletters 1990-1999
      • Newsletters 1980-1989
      • Newsletters 1970-1979
      • Newsletters 1960-1969
      • Newsletters 1950-1959
    • IMC Archive
    • Videos
  • Training
    • Overview
    • Introduction to Trad Climbing Programme 2026
Join Now
Book the Hut
Log in
  • Glendo On-sight Delights

    (by Ambrose Flynn, June 2011)
    A weekend climbing the classics of Glendalough.


    Two weeks ago the long-term weather forecast for Éire was sunny … sunny … sunny. Therefore a weekend trip to Glendo was the only sensible option. But alas, the Atlantic Ocean had other plans in store and closer to the date the weather ‘forecast’ looked decidedly more "Irish"!

    Being stubborn folk we decided regardless to frequent the IMC Hut for two days and see what the weather gods had in store for us.

    Saturday was a beautiful 20+C with just enough breeze to confine the evil midges to their lairs! The wonderful Quartz Gully was our first port of call. I had the pleasure of climbing Quartz Gully last year but this was Barry’s first attempt and he dispatched the crux second pitch with style. The 60-metre abseil from the Expectancy slab to basecamp was equally enjoyable.

    We then switched our attention to Expectancy as Emily joined us for shenanigans … climbing Expectancy, Georgia, Adam’s Rib and Lassitude with the occasional sun-worshiping taking place. Emily left us and we decided to "take a look" at Cracks on the Garden of Eden.

    The first pitch of CotGoE (nice eh?) provided a difficult layback start that led to a nice spacious ledge that was unfortunately the home to every midge in Wicklow … that apparently like to attack a belayer’s eyeball with enthusiasm and dedication. Barry took the second pitch and dispatched it in style urging me, on topping out, to take my time and enjoy the pitch … fantastic off-width crack climbing. I started the third crux pitch with light fading feeling strong and confident but on reaching the steep wonderful crux my hands started to sweat and as I reached round for the sanctuary of my chalk bag it decided to plummet to the second belay station (if found a return would be appreciated) thus developing the ebbing away of my "strength and confidence". I decided to down-climb and Barry took lead but due to failing light and our head-torches being in our rucksacks at Expectancy he moved left of the crux and so it was the quickest coiling of ropes and abseil ensued as we reached our rucksacks as we we’re enveloped in darkness. An exhilarating and informative experience no doubt!! But alas, the burden of walking back to the IMC Hut was lessened by the arrival of our saviour, Vincent. And so it was we awoke on Sunday with a slightly sore head and empty stomachs but still looking forward to another day’s climbing and the arrival of Áine.

    We walked into Glendo with the spectre of rain a real possibility, however sometimes blind optimism pays dividends.

    Barry and I decided to see what all the fuss was about and headed for Prelude Nightmare while Vincent and Áine were braver and hit Sarcophagus.

    I took the first pitch of P.N. and really enjoyed the ramp and the delicate climbing on the slab. Barry led the second pitch with ease and as the exposure increased his enjoyment increased. The third pitch was fantastic starting with the steep right-angled corner and an airy ascent up and traverse onto Nightmare Ledge … it didn’t disappoint … what a fantastic belay ledge.

    Barry took the final crux pitch and in no time was calling "safe!" I deconstructed the belay and followed up onto the "sensational swing" rightwards and towards the enjoyment of exposed and atmospheric Glendo climbing … what a pitch and situation. Cue the applause for Mister Kenny, Ohrtmann and Winder … fantastic climbing.

    Word had reached us at this stage of events that the rest of Éire was under water but Glendo saw only the occasional mist and it was from this mist we heard the familiar French voice of Vincent coming from the "small belay ledge" after the crux third pitch.

    He proceeded to inform us that the third pitch was "interesting" as he belayed Áine. I believe my chalk bag wasn’t the only thing left in Glendo that weekend as some of Vincent’s skin may be found on a quartz handhold … the return of which is not necessary. I digress!

    Being ravenous we decided to call it a day and our chef mister Murphy assisted by his French partner in crime cooked up a storm … only to be surpassed by Áine as she whipped out the Romantica … bloated we retired to the "minute movement devices" known as the air mattresses.

    Monday began with the arrival of Emily and Jo, the departure of Vincent and the arrival of a beautiful day with the all-important midge-slaying wind present!

    Myself and Emily headed for Cracks on the Garden of Eden for a rematch with the third pitch, while Barry and Jo hit Quartz Gully for Jo’s first Glendo multipitch adventure.

    Once again I was amazed with the quality of the climbing on CotGoE as I led pitches one and two with the spectre of the third pitch getting closer and closer … and it didn’t disappoint … what a fantastic steep pitch. This time the crux went first time and with comfort which was displayed verbally with hoots and howls. Meanwhile, Emily was climbing and enjoying each pitch as this was her reintroduction to multipitch climbing after several years’ multipitch absence.

    We descended to Expectancy to meet Barry and Jo who dispatched Quartz Gully with style and vigour.

    Jo then led Expectancy comfortably and Emily, who led her first HS route the day before, decided to lead Lassitude (VS) with little resistance. With all troops content and at peace we decided to call it a day.

    The weekend provided many challenges and experiences each of which contributed to an overwhelming sense of peacefulness and fulfilment. But, like all questions answered "I wonder what Prelude Nightmare is like?", another takes its place, "I wonder what Sarcophagus is like?" And so the journey continues.

    To be continued …

  • Fraughan Wednesday

    (by Ambrose Flynn, June 2011)
    A great day on Great Gully Ridge, Wicklow.


    As Fraughan Sunday (last Sunday in July) is some way off, myself, Emily and Connor decided to give in to our impetuous nature and venture into Fraughan Rock Glen. It was to our surprise that the best of the pickings were to be found on the ascent towards the Great Gully Ridge and it just so happened that we had our climbing gear with us.

    Coincidence… ?

    The weather was fine and the ever-present midge-destroying wind was appreciated as we scrambeled towards the first pitch … I could feel the madness in the air … a few howls later I started the first pitch using 60m halves. But on reaching the first belay I was compelled to continue upwards and as close as possible to the left stopping after about 25metres and some nice climbing.

    Connor followed up effortlessly as is his manner as did Emily. Connor took the next pitch and felt the madness also as he continued towards the controversial "tat belay". Emily followed and dispatched the "crux" in style and I followed enjoying the warmth of non-polished granite.

    On reaching the belay we took a look at the offending tat and decided it’s always better to back up tat if in doubt … and just in time a sling arrived on the back of Lassie … trusty K9.

    I took the last pitch and was drawn to the off-width crack to the right of the route, which is instantly recognizable as there’s half a rack stuck in it. The crack is both delicate and strenuous as it pushed one out and to the left but is totally worthwhile (I think the guide gives it an S 4a "Variation") and I’d grade it a stiff 4c with bags of exposure. The top-out directly above the off-width crack is also challenging as the only hand-hold is clumps of grass.

    Although I was using 60m halves and extenders I still experienced significant rope drag – I’d suggest that on arriving at the off-width crack one should set up belay and bring your compatriots over to you thus reducing rope drag and when the weather is poor the position at the ‘tat belay’ is very exposed, unlike the off-width belay.

    Emily followed and enjoyed the pumpy route as Connor pursued. A few howls and a spot of barking later we were chilling out eating cola bottles … num … num!

    After discussing world debt and the housing market … NOT!! … we were moved to consider our options of descent. I suggested an abseil as I’d done so before but Connor was reluctant if it wasn’t necessary and a walk out was possible. Intrigued yet understanding the seriousness of abseiling we discussed further and after hearing his tales and views based upon several seasons in the Alps, I now have a more respectful considered opinion towards abseiling … i.e. if it’s not necessary then don’t do it!

    An enjoyable walk down the gully ensued and a little boulder-hopping was in order … only punctuated by more Fraughan berry picking; and a master class on flora by Emily.

    Hurrah (nod of the cap) to Fraughan Wednesday … Hurrah!

  • Wicklow Ways

    (by John Duignan, May 2011)
    A Wicklow climbing diary.



    Joe on pitch 1, Curved Air, Luggala

    Against an azure sky, the peregrine silently circled Joe (Reville) on the descent to Luggala. A good omen. We chose the two-star VS route Curved Air that rises above Conifer Terrace. The top ramp pitch is as exciting a climb as there is at this level on the crag as it curves and rises improbably. A quick romp up Pine Tree Butress ends a great day’s climbing.


    End of day: Joe on Pine Tree Buttress

    Days later, Seán (Barrett) is back in Glendaloch after a few months abroad. To celebrate we choose a line that is rarely dry, Lag Mara. It winds its way up the crag beside the waterfall alongside Forest Rhapsody. Our line is governed by what is dry rather than the guidebook and we take an arete parallel to the guidebook description. We are rewarded with some fine granite, stunning views and interesting rock challenges. Chockstones and one ancient tape show that early climbers knew this line. It is well worth an outing after a dry spell.


    Seán on third pitch, Lag Mara

    Luggala draws us back for more before the midgie season starts. Barry (Denton)is puzzled by the guidebook description of the three-star VS route we plan; how would any of us unravel the puzzles of the lines on this crag without Gerry Moss’s introduction? Today the delicate beginning moves of All Along the Watchtower are bone-dry. We split the first pitch in two as it winds first to the right, then left and back again. The second pitch – a descent backwards down a ramp with the rock wall trying to push you off and a gap to step over at bottom of the ramp – is a very memorable passage. I lose concentration as I climb the wall above the ramp and find myself flying backwards through the air to swing to and fro fifteen feet below the ramp. Barry looks relieved as I cackle manically, coming back through the gap in the ramp. "The Flying Doctor service", I joke – very relieved at getting away with a few scratches. The final pitch is equally delightful clean granite. The views from the Woody Wall of the lake below and the peregrines in flight are beautiful.


    Barry backs down the ramp on All Along the Watchtower

    Thanks Joe, Barry and Séan for these great days. We are so fortunate to have these gems at our doorstep and great rope mates in the club to share them. If the recession is affecting your chance of a trip away this year, there is great granite a short hop down the road.

  • Free as a bird in Glendalough

    (by John Duignan, April 2011)
    A great day’s climbing in Wicklow.


    The approach to the Main Face is carpeted with alpine flowers – dog violet and saxifrage are easy to name; others I can’t recognise. A lizard scampers underfoot; a family of goats with a magnificent elder puck goat pass above us. The forecast for bad weather must be happening in a different part of Wicklow; the crag never looked better.

    Hugh (Reynolds) hums as he gears up for his first day outdoor climbing this year. Soon he is cruising Scimitar Crack – an onsight HVS lead, laybacking and bridging well.


    Scimitar Crack – Hugh laybacking the crux

    Cracks on the Garden of Eden is next. Hugh chooses the bouldering moves of the HVS variant. Inspired, I find the layback moves on the pitch above fantastic – VS climbing at its Glendalough best.


    Cracks on the Garden of Eden – upper pitch

    A sunsoaked lunch at the ledge below the Prelude ramp allows us watch a young lass making her first ascent of Prelude-Nightmare. I plead with her to shed the massive unneeded seagull-basher cam – she laughs back that it is a lucky piece. Shut up and admire her catlike grace.

    A day like this calls for something special. I have been repulsed by the Upper Cliffs too often – the weather wrong; conditions poor; too wet underfoot. Hey, I have a whole bag full of excuses. Truth is, they scare me as much as they fascinate me. One anonymous climber (hello Terry!) recalls the "trumpets of angels calling" while climbing Cornish Rhapsody. Another, Helen, recalls getting her knee stuck in Cuchulainn Groove.

    Despite the heat, when we scramble up, Cuchullain Groove, true to its reputation, is wet along its length and has a small pool at its bottom.

    We choose Freebird, a HVS climb I often admire from the valley below. The moves on the first pitch are delicate and in places unlikely; Hugh thoughtfully works the pitch. Before long he is grinning down from a hanging belay which makes the best of the poor anchors available.


    Hugh cruises the first pitch of Freebird

    I wonder why the second pitch looks so steep when it appears so laid back from below? The climb is a stunning Yosemite-like splitter crack; it is highly vegetated after the Winter. I garden as I go but recall Gerry Moss’s advice to bring an ice axe for this; my puny nut key is not up to the job. My mood swings widly from joy to fear when the crack is very overgrown. The upper third holds are juggy and the pressure is off.


    Freebird second pitch

    The guidebook suggests abseiling from tat at the top of the second pitch. Would trad climbers object to bolts and chain at the top of this pitch? Surely it would be safer and wouldn’t take from the joy of the climb. I add a new sling to the tat above.

    Freebird on the Upper Cliffs proved well worth the visit; don’t forget the ice axe to do your bit gardening! I have never seen conditions better there than they are – I hope you enjoy it as much as we did.

  • Ships that Pass in the Night

    (by Gerry Moss, from IMC Newsletter Autumn 2010)
    A good-looking girl pays a fleeting visit to the climbing scene.


    She was a phantom of delight,
    When first she gleam’d upon my sight;
    A lovely apparition, sent
    To be a moment’s ornament;
    Her eyes as stars of twilight fair;
    Like twilight’s, too, her dusky hair;
    But all things else about her drawn
    From May-time and the cheerful dawn;
    A dancing shape, an image gay,
    To haunt, to startle and waylay.
    W.W.

    In the beginning it was envisaged that the IMC would eventually spread its tentacles (or its testicles, as Bertie Ahern would have it) countrywide, with sections in each of the four provinces. In the heel of the hunt we had to settle for just the two: one here in Dublin and one in Belfast. That we held on to the two sections for as long as we did was quite an achievement. As Brendan Behan once put it: the first item on the agenda of any Irish committee meeting is usually a split. The Belfast section lasted until sometime in the nineties, when it just faded away.

    Up until the eighties it was the practise to exchange visits on a regular basis – we would go up there, stay in The Bloat (the Belfast Section’s hut in the Mournes) and do some climbing or walking, and they would come down here and stay in the Glendasan hut for more of the same.

    On one of their weekend visits we held a joint meet on the Sunday to the seacliffs at the foot of Bray Head. There was about a half-a-dozen of them, and a handful of us. After all these years I can’t recall which of the lads came down from the north, but I do remember there was one female. Hard to forget her, really. Tall, slim, shapely and athlethic, she moved with an elegant, easy grace. She had a peaches and cream complexion, eyes of the brightest blue, and her finely-chiselled features were framed by a mass of golden curls. With a sweet, shy smile and a complete lack of affectation, there was an air of innocence about her. A lovely person, totally charming, and a newcomer to the climbing scene.

    Naturally enough, as the meet organiser and local expert on all aspects of climbing on the Bray seacliffs, I felt it incumbent upon me to take her under my wing. A responsibility I shouldered with my usual quiet fortitude. To be fair to the lads, I did have several offers from them to take her off of my hands, but I felt it would be unfair to burden them thus.

    We got on like a house on fire. She was a natural on rock, supple, strong and with a keen sense of balance. We rattled off most of the routes on Cable Rock, abbing back down each time to the water’s edge. Towards mid-afternoon, we were standing on a narrow ledge, just out of reach of the waves, having abbed down from doing Spinnaker, a VS climb that is a mixture of the delicate and the strenuous, and one on which I had used almost all of my meagre selection of gear.

    With commendable efficiency, as she followed me up each route she had removed the gear and racked it neatly on one of my slings. But this time, as she leaned over to pass the sling back to me, it slipped from her fingers and we both watched in horror as the lot went tinkling down the rock, entered the sea with a plop, and disappeared from view. On that dull, raw October day there was a full spring tide, with about five metres of cold, choppy water below us, so it looked like goodbye to my precious gear.

    "Not to worry, Gerry", she said quietly, and before I could protest, she had kicked off her shoes, slipped out of her harness, pants and top, and stood poised on the lip of the ledge, clad in the briefest, flimsiest of underwear. A sudden hush fell over the crag as everyone stopped climbing, keen to witness this turn of events. Then, with a shy, bashful smile and a sidelong glance in my direction, she dived gracefully into the cold water. By the time she surfaced all the lads were lining the bank, waiting to catch a closer look at this gorgeous spectacle. She came up empty-handed, but I was probably the only one to notice that, as she lay on her back, treading water, her golden hair streaming out behind her, her smile as sweet as ever, blissfully unaware of the effect she was having. For it was immediately apparent that, in the few moments she had been immersed, her underwear had shrunk dramatically. Indeed, it was transparently clear that those lacey garments had never been designed for use as swimwear, and were now about as useful as a couple of strands of loose barbed wire – offering a modicum of protection to the property, but in no way impeding the view.

    Her announcement that she was going to try again was followed by a flurry of frantic activity, as the lads discarded clothing left, right and centre, and plunged in to join her. She rolled over on to her tummy and executed a perfect surface dive: hands, head and torso going down first, the pert little bottom rising slightly, the long shapely legs the last to disappear. With much kicking and splashing the boys followed, hot on her heels.

    They were down for an extraordinary length of time, giving me a chance to reflect on what a thoroughly decent bunch of chaps they were. To brave the cold water on such a raw day in an attempt to recover my gear was, indeed, an act of unselfish kindness. Though not normally one to show emotion, I am not too proud to admit that I felt a lump in my throat, and the merest hint of a tear in my eye.

    Although they popped up empty-handed, they remained undaunted, breathing deeply, smiling broadly, slapping the surface of the water with gusto. With the demure mermaid leading the way, down they went again, remaining under for an even longer spell this time. Again they surfaced empty-handed but, surprisingly, more cheerful than ever, and mad keen to submerge again. As they disappeared, however, I felt a slight uneasiness, a small twinge of doubt. For by now they had drifted quite a distance away from the spot where my gear had gone down, and there was no chance whatever of them finding it where they were diving.

    Then the penny dropped. This shower of depraved lousers didn’t give a fiddler’s fart about me or my gear. Nothing but a gang of rampant perverts and debauched louts, whatever they were groping for down there, it certainly wasn’t my gear. And, worst of all, they were being lured on by this sly siren, this shameless strumpet, this … this near-naked, brazen bitch from Belfast, while I was left bereft, nutless and forgotten about on the bank. Bloody women. Typical. That’s the thanks you get. I knew the minute I clapped eyes on her she was nothing but trouble.

    There was nothing for it – I was going to have to take the plunge myself. Although a strong swimmer, I am normally reluctant to expose my skinny, milk-white frame to cold winds or the public gaze, particularly when I am wearing my saggy, baggy underpants, but on this occasion the focus of attention was entirely elsewhere. Indeed, at this stage I’m almost sure I could see clouds of steam hovering above the frolicking sex-fiends out to sea. I eased into the water and dived down, down, until I was grasping the fronds of seaweed flourishing on the rocky seabed.

    In those days we had to fashion our own slings, purchasing the tape by the yard, and you had a choice of two colours: white or orange. Luckily I had opted for the orange and so it was I spotted my sling nestling in a particularly lush batch of seaweed. I surfaced with a yell of triumph, brandishing my gear for all to see. My success was greeted with stoney silence and sullen stares, – I was the party pooper – but what did I care?

    Back on shore they clustered around Lady Godiva, each one earnestly offering to dab her down with the tail of his shirt. With dusk fast approaching, we called it a day, packed up and headed back along the cliff path to Bray.

    I never saw her again as, shortly after, she abandoned the climbing scene for fresh fields and pastures new. It has always been thus. Every year I see a fresh batch of eager faces as young men and women come to sample what climbing is all about. Some may have a natural talent and ability, others struggle on even the easiest of climbs. But most have one thing in common – within a few weeks they will sink without trace. The trouble is, it is almost impossible to identify the ones who will become hooked.

    Sometimes it is the strugglers, the slow learners, who persevere and eventually become competent and keen climbers. Which is why, not being a great one for instructing, I like to keep my input during the course to the minimum required, waiting until it is all over, to see which of them will bother to turn up on the Thursday nights in the quarry. They are the ones deserving of our time, attention and encouragement – and it often pays off – on both sides.

    Down through the years, I have been fortunate enough to spend some wonderful climbing days and weekends, on mountain crags and sea cliffs the length and breadth of these islands, partnered by keen and enthusiastic tyros – the best of cheerful company.

    And I look forward, with confidence, to more years of the same – for the climbers may come and go – but the rocks remain.

Previous Page
1 … 3 4 5 6 7 … 11
Next Page

Postal Address

Irish Mountaineering Club
Glendasan
Glendalough
Co. Wicklow
A98 EY91
Ireland

Follow us on Social Media

  • Facebook
  • Instagram

IMC Website

  • Contact Us
  • Introduction
  • Hut